AMS Saver Snag Cutter V2.0

AMS Saver Snag Cutter V2.0

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AMS Saver Snag Cutter V2.0.1
AMS Saver Snag Cutter V2.0.1
Designer
3.2 h
9 plates
4.8(24)

Petg 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Petg 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
4.5 h
10 plates
5.0(1)

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
2.6 h
9 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

 

AMS Lite Users

I have created a model for AMS Lite based on this model after receiving many requests. Unfortunately, I do not own an AMS Lite, and I have been unable to find one locally that I can test on. If you are willing to participate in an experimental and UNTESTED AMS Lite version please visit https://makerworld.com/en/models/1011533#profileId-990997

Boost Me (for free)

I put a lot of time and attention into designing and testing this assembly, and your support is greatly appreciated!

Change Log:

  • Version 2.0.0: 2/1/25 (Now compatible with Sunlu spools!)
    • General Updates
      • It is narrower, smoother, easier, and looks better!
    • Updated the Lock
      • It is more compact.
    • Updated the Slide
      • It has features to make the short tube easier to install.
    • Updated the Body
      • It is more compact to not interfere with narrower spools (Sunlu) or filament clips.
      • It has a groove to make loading filament easier.
      • It has extended rails to better support the Slide.
      • It has a larger slot instead of a Teflon tube at the bottom.
    • Updated the Arm
      • It has a larger cutout for better filament visibility.
      • It is shorter for narrower spools.
      • It has more mechanical advantage, making cutting easier on the Feeder.
      • It has a fin to prevent spool gaps from catching when re-spooling.

 

What is this?

This is an AMS Saver unlike any other. Not only does it prevent wear and tear on your AMS filament inlet, but it also prevents snags and obstructions from delaying your print!

 

     

  

How does it work?

NOTE: I am actively updating this model as I receive feedback, so if you have any issues please message me and I will work with you to resolve them. Also, check back often for the next improved version!

 

This AMS Saver differs from the other options because it has a mechanism that automatically cuts the filament if a tangle or an obstruction (taped end of the spool) is detected. This feature is turned on or off with a slider lock. Cutting the filament when a snag is detected allows the printer to automatically switch to your backup filament by setting up the Auto Switch function. If you are running a long print, this can save you hours of delayed print time! If you don't have the Auto Switch function activated, it gives you a few minutes to take action while the printer continues to use the filament in the tubes. You have a few minutes to address the issue and re-feed the filament manually for an uninterrupted print.

 

Process WITHOUT Cutter

  1. Snag is detected by the printer.
  2. Printer immediately pauses and the spool is retracted.
  3. Warning is displayed "The AMS Assist motor is overloaded. This could be due to entangled filament or a stuck spool. [0700 8010 083713].
  4. Printer remains paused until the issue is fixed manually

Process WITH Cutter and WITH Auto Refill enabled

  1. Snag is detected by the Cutter (not the printer).
  2. Filament is cut.
  3. Printer detects the end of the filament.
  4. Printer continues to print uninterrupted until all filament in the tubes is depleted.
  5. Printer switches to the refill spool automatically and continues to print.

Process WITH Cutter and WITHOUT Auto Refill enabled

  1. Snag is detected by the Cutter (not the printer).
  2. Filament is cut.
  3. Printer detects the end of the filament.
  4. Printer sends a warning message that the end of the filament has been detected and needs attention, but the print is not paused.
  5. Printer continues to print until all filament in the tubes is depleted (this takes a few minutes).
  6. Printer pauses if the tube is depleted before the issue has been fixed.
  7. Printer remains paused until the issue is fixed manually
  8. If issue is fixed before the filaments in the tubes is depleted then the printer continues uninterrupted.

 

   

Compatibility

AMS Style

This is compatible with all AMS for the X1 and P1 series printers. It is not compatible with the AMS Lite. If you are willing to participate in an experimental AMS Lite version please visit https://makerworld.com/en/models/1011533#profileId-990997

 

Desiccant holders

It is compatible with desiccant holders placed in front of the AMS. 

 

Spools

It is compatible with all spools compatible with the AMS, even the Narrowest Respool!

 

Filament

Some engineering-grade materials such as PA-CF may be too tough/strong/hard for the mechanism to cut. If you have trouble try using a new sharp blade. Let me know if you want a version that can work with these materials, and I may design one if there is enough interest. 

 

ABS filament density is 18% lower than PLA, so a full 1kg spool includes more filament length. This extra filament length makes the spool diameter so big that there is no room to close the AMS lid with a full ABS spool and the AMS Saver. You can still use the AMS Saver with the lid cracked open, or you can install an AMS Lid Riser.

Materials Needed

Filament - The cutting trigger force is dependent on the filament stiffness. I tested with standard PLA, but if you use a different material the trigger force may be too high or too low. Refer to the “Trigger Tuning” section below. 

Filament Cutter - Spares may have been included in your printer shipment, or you can purchase them at the Bambu Store.

PTFE Tube - At least 2.75 inches (70 mm) of 4 mm OD is required. Spares may have been included in your AMS shipment, or you can purchase it at the Bambu Store.

AMS Tape Saver Multi-Tool (Suggested) - This is a helpful tool that helps hold and cut the Teflon tubing. 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/982416

Mechanism Overview

  • Actuate the Cutter mechanism by moving the Slide down into the Body. To adjust the trigger force see the “Trigger Tuning” section below.
  • Reset the Cutter mechanism by moving the Slide up out of the Body until it clicks and stops. 
  • Lock the Cutter by sliding the lock to the Right until an (X) is visible (note that the mechanism must be in the reset position to lock).
  • Unlock the Cutter by sliding the lock to the Left until a checkmark is visible.

 

Assembly Instructions

 1. Cut Teflon Tubing

  • Cut a Teflon (PTFE) Tube section to 1/4 inch (6 mm) and another section to 2.5 inches (64 mm).
  • The AMS Tape Saver Multi-Tool is useful for cutting and handling the tubing

2. Attach Teflon Tubes to Slide and Guide

  • Insert the 1/4 inch tube into the hole at the bottom of the Slide.

  • Insert the 2-1/2 inch tube into the hole at the top of the slide and the other end into the Guide.
  • Push the Tube into the Slide and the Guide until it stops.
  • Hold the Slide and twist the Guide clockwise (righty tighty) while pushing them together to thread the tube into both parts.
  • If the tube begins to buckle/twist, you may want to use the AMS Tape Saver Multi-Tool as a clamp to grip and twist the Teflon tube.
  • Observe the Tube in the Slide inspection hole and the Guide end to ensure it is fully assembled.

3. Assemble the Arm into the Slide

Note: The default Slide design on Plate 1 seems to have the best trigger force. The trigger force can be changed by using a different Slide model. Refer to the “Trigger Tuning” section below.

  • Remove the “REMOVE” tab from the Slide and flatten the nub/flashing.
  • Orient the Arm as shown and slide the shaft into the slot.
  • Rotate the Arm 90 degrees toward the Slide.

4. Attach the Cutter

Caution: The cutter is sharp! Handle with care.

  • Insert the Cutter into the Slide slot and snap the pins into the Arm holes.

5. Attach the Body

  • Line up the pins on the Body with the slots on the Arm.
  • Insert the Slide into the Body while inserting the pints into the slots.
  • The Slide will snap in place. 
  • Note that you can disassemble the mechanism by pushing a piece of filament into the hole on the side of the Body while pushing the Slide out of the Body.

6. Attach the Lock

  • Push the Lock into the Body until it snaps into place.

7. Attach the Bracket

  • Remove the “REMOVE” tab from the Bracket and flatten the nub/flashing.
  • Insert one pin fully into one hole.
  • Rotate the Body and bend the Bracket to insert the second pin into the second hole.

8. Attach the AMS Feeder

  • Slide the Bracket into place on the Feeder so that the tabs in the back fit under the housing.
  • Push down on the middle of the Bracket so that the bottom of the Bracket snaps into place.

Note that you can remove the Bracket by reaching down and pushing the bottom of the Bracket free of the Feeder.

9. Attach the Hat

  • The Hat is an optional piece that allows for easier filament loading.
  • It is recommended that the hat be attached to the filament in the feeder. This lifts the button up and makes it easier to access.
  • Slide the short end of the Hat under the front of the Button and slide the Hat back.
  • Push down on the back of the Hat until it snaps into place on the Button.
  • When loading filament, push back on the Hat and it disengages the rollers to easily slip the filament into the Feeder.

10. Removal and Disassembly

  • To remove and disassemble you essentially perform the assembly instructions in reverse as seen in the video above.

Setup and Features

NOTE: The written instructions below are the most updated. The pictures and videos are for reference only and may not be updated with the latest design improvements.

 

1. Load the Spool 

  • Insert the spool into the AMS
  • Narrow spools should be shifted to the right such that the left-hand rim is slotted into the channel shown below.
  • The moving side of the mechanism should not rub against the side of the spool as this may cause false triggers.

 

2. Insert the Filament

Ensure the Cutter lock is engaged so you do not accidentally cut the filament while loading it! The (X) is visible when the Cutter is locked.

  • Rotate the Body forward to access the AMS Spool Holder.
  • Insert the spool into the AMS Spool Holder.
  • Ensure the lock is in the locked (X showing) position. The Body can't rotate past the top of the Bracket if the lock is disengaged. This serves as a reminder to lock the cutter when installing filament.
  • Insert the end of the filament into the Guide.
  • Push the filament through the Saver and into the Feeder funnel.
  • Push the button Hat toward the spool while pushing the filament into Feeder funnel until the AMS pulls the filament.

4. Use during printing

  • After the filament loading sequence has been completed, unlock the Cutter by sliding the lock to the Left until the circle is visible.
  • Ensure you have the “Auto Refill” option enabled on the printer (if you have a backup spool).
  • Note: If you find that the cutter is triggering too soon or too late refer to the Trigger Tuning section below.

5. Remove the filament

  • Ensure the lock is in the locked (X showing) position. The Body can't rotate past the top of the Bracket if the lock is disengaged. This serves as a reminder to lock the cutter when installing filament.
  • Rotate the roll of filament backward until the filament exits the Guide.
  • Be sure to not let the end of the filament go free and get tangled.
  • Rotate the Body forward.
  • Remove the Spool.

Trigger Tuning

The material you use to print the model may be softer or harder than what I used for development. A softer material will create a weaker spring resulting in a lighter trigger and less force to activate the cutter. The inverse is true for harder material. If you are having issues with the cutter triggering too soon (cutting without a tangle) or too late (AMS feeder can't feed) don't worry. I have you covered.

 

The Slide part has the plastic spring incorporated into it, and there is a number on the back of the Slide indicating the thickness of the spring. The default Slide is marked with "1.8" indicating a spring thickness of 1.8 mm. A thicker spring will compensate for triggering too soon, and a thinner spring will compensate for triggering too late. Plates 2 through 9 have different Slide spring thicknesses, and they are labeled in Bambu Studio with the spring thickness on that plate (a minimum of 1.4 mm and a maximum of 3.0 mm).

 

If you have a cutter triggering too soon, look at the back of your Slide part and note the number. Print the plate with the Slide spring one increment thicker. Remove the current Slide and replace it with the thicker version. For example, if you have a "1.8" on the back of your Slide, then you should print the 2.0 mm plate. Test this new spring thickness and see if you are still encountering triggering that is too soon. If it is still triggering too soon then keep increasing the spring width until you find a Slide spring that triggers at the appropriate time. Let me know if you are still having issues and I will help.

 

Boost Me (for free)

Your support is greatly appreciated. If you find this model useful then please share a boost!

Please check out the other models on my profile too!

     

 

 

Comment & Rating (517)

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AMS Saver Snag Cutter Version 2 has just been uploaded! It is now compatible with narrow spools (including Sunlu), is easier to use, looks better, and has more cutting force. If you like the model, please support me by sharing it :) Thanks! @Nlargen @wikitinl2 @MalekAli @user_2202630664 @Yesbutno @wavydave1 @Nein_Fingerz @Barcata @GarciaJohn @Leehart72 @Hightower6ft8 @KingSlice @user_244678924 @matthew.h @user_69725102 @user_1668017128 @justasku @user_3493827730 @DrJex @CooLajz_CZ @daniel_topanga @Miter @Melewis1975 @jessenlaura27 @Freaky_Fiber @user_712814954 @gulfportprints @maxgallows @Dave0523 @ranashi @user_816039968 @MeisterEdel @BigBossDarth @cortosis2009 @ProfessorP @user_4290793779 @user_2702295009 @user_2398599189 @tommydemanna @user_230575000 @pandatastic @Domz_Garage @Seawolfs @Z0NCO @user_162746189 @TheHuff109 @momiji_manju @Ravbgodmode @MJ3DPrintservic @stavroskasidis @berryvandenbroe @Lord_Kenny @Karstenkinst @albertosendsyou @marcel.lulofs @user_256052698 @createan @MagicBoxShow @redlaser666 @Mischungsmicha @Patrickho138 @ilove3dprinin_5 @qualifornia @exo7 @rjordans @didi_59 @kobbens @Ross_L @RWG1985 @Miclongman @RandomKhaos @insipower234 @bradclarke @kamden.bolhuis @MyTechGuyRI @TJSlayer @PCHuDSoN @Bedslinger @caleb.bryan @copymaster @eeeeivind @Bridic @rikus.smit @drodemeyer1956 @Jigsawscreation @homeslice @user_104664877 @mopemaster @ExternumArcaCog @user_2471292329 @schuler87 @tobyayre @user_981465986 @Denis_v1.0_beta @smorin @RainerBavaria @user_28315774 @Wambo1337 @bell.christophe @daniN23 @stevecary @BeeLake @user_1249721519 @richdjs @nick.ahlbin @wkearney99 @user_2345473335 @user_1807040699 @Bloodybooger @martinholmes198 @35Enrico @storhemulen @Pitt1935 @Bubble_Man @MickeyFKNMouse @p6fhs42yrt @jawknee21 @redrider54 @user_4079166053 @Viplabs @RBCreations
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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I literally just printed the rest of my V1s an hour ago :(
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just in time 😆 I just put some spool in smaller and had to remove the savers lol.
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awesome. I will give it a try! next gen is a pretrnsioned version that only needs to be triggered ❤️
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Added the 1.3 version to my printers. Looks nice.
The designer has replied
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Wow! What a beautiful setup! Can I use those photos? Don't hesitate to reach out if you run into any issues.
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Replying to @hexavalent :
Thanks. you can use the photos. let me know where you used them😏
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Replying to @MJ3DPrintservic :
I have uploaded them on the main model listing. Thanks!
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Print Profile
!!!OLD!!! AMS Saver Snag Cutter V1.2
Top idea and fantastic execution Printing and assembly are very straightforward with the instructions I also have the problem with the desiccant containers Simply scaling them down won't work in my opinion because of the groove in the middle I'm waiting for a solution to this minor inconvenience with my boost ;-)
The designer has replied
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What a nice and thoughtful review! You have convinced me to go home after work and fix the desiccant compatibility issue. I will let you know when a new version is ready.
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Replying to @hexavalent :
That's very kind of you and makes me very happy The boost would have come anyway ;-) Just don't rush
Show original
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Boosted
I’m adjusted the desiccant container and lid width to 35mm and use 3 of them. It keeps the AMS at a 1, so no need for the hydrometer.
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I printed the latest model but it does not work on a full spool of filament, I cant close AMS with filament on the spool
The designer has replied
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Oh no! I have tested it on full spools, and I have not had that problem. Do you maybe have the lock disengaged (slid to the left) and the "reminder fin" is preventing the Body from rotating against the spool? Try sliding the lock so that the X is shown and see if that solves your problem. If you are still having issues I am curious if all of your full spools are that large, or if maybe a certain material has a larger spooled diameter. Thanks for the feedback!
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Adding a SS, this is std BL spool with black abs
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Replying to @ankitag984 :
Thanks for the picture. It looks like ABS has a density approximately 18% less than PLA. Compared to PLA, there is more length of ABS filament for a 1kg roll. That extra length makes the diameter so big that the AMS Saver has no space. Unfortunately, I think it would be a pretty major redesign to make the AMS Saver any thinner. I will add a note to the description that it isn't compatible with full ABS spools, and I will let you know if I develop one that is even thinner. Thanks again.
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!!!OLD!!! AMS Saver Snag Cutter V1.3.4
Really cool Idea! 5 stars for that. Sadly it does not work with my ams and for some spools it could be a little slimmer/ rounded at the edges. (Tends to catch on some spools). I tried to trigger the device by holding tight on the filament. But it never even came near to cut the filament. Before that the printer/AMS was trying to reload it. I think the sensors in the printer are too sensible to even try and pull the filament through your cutter :/ U have an idea on how to fix that?
The designer has replied
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Thank you for the rating and the boost! Unfortunately, the long lever arm is necessary to get the right amount of force on the Cutter, and the length of the cutter (tip to pins) is rather large. This forces the mechanism to be as wide as it is. Would it help if the lock didn't stick out so far? You are the first person to report the trigger being too heavy and stalling out the AMS. Here are some suggestions: 1. Is the AMS feeder too weak at all 4 positions? I wonder if there is one bad feeder. Does the feeder stop turning, or does it keep turning and the rollers slip on the filament? Maybe there is something stopping the rollers from gripping the filament hard enough. 2. Make sure the lock is disengaged (you can see the checkmark) 3. Make sure your cutter is sharp. 4. Make sure the mechanism slides freely by hand and doesn't get jammed. 5. Print and install the Slide labeled "light" or "lightest (plates 2 and 3). 6. Print the Slide out of a softer material. Are you using carbon fiber material right now? Maybe try PETG. 7. I have never tried this before, but you could put a tiny amount of grease on the parts that slide against each other. Let me know if you want to attempt this and I will try it on mine first. Please let me know how it goes and we can keep troubleshooting.
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Replying to @hexavalent :
currently printing a "lighter" lock. Will keep you updated ,) Yah if the lock would be slimmer that could help. Also it could help if the edges of all parts that could catch the spool would be "rounder" so they don't catch in the openings some spools have at the sides.
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Replying to @hexavalent :
So it works on PLA now. But on PA-CF there is no reliable cut. Sometimes it cuts too late and then the ams tries to pull in the alredy cut part that was still in tue tube. Quite hopeless task xD I tried the lightest and the heaviest arm. They moove very freely. Printed in PLA, PETG and PETG-CF. Blades are new.
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Print Profile
AMS Saver Snag Cutter V2.0.1
just printed the earlier version last week and stumbled appon this version yesterday. and go figure I had just bought a few rolls of sunlu that I thought seemed pretty narrow. perfect timing. upgraded my ams today with new version and giving my other ones to my friend. Both versions are fantastic. wized up and printed the ptfe tool too. lol that works beautifully. thank you for your hard work on this. included some comparison shots.
The designer has replied
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Very nice! Thank you for the review and the photos. They brought a possible failure mode to my attention. I suggest shifting your narrow spools to the right so that the right side of the mechanism doesn't rub against the side of the spool and cause a false trigger. There is a notch that the left side of the spool will slip into on the AMS. I will update the instructions to mention this. Thanks again! BTW, sharing the model online helps me a lot :D
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See photo of notch.
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I updated the instructions. I hope you don't mind that I used your photo :)
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Thanks so much for adding the dessicant mounts! I did print in PETG in case I ever want to add a heater. I used the Strongest power vs standard. It seemed like the PETG slid easier so the strongest pressure feels best for that material IMO. Looks great and work great. I added the AMS location numbers to the idler. one thing of note for those thinking about printing, the grey Sunlu spools won’t work. they are too narrow. I tried it and they get hung up on the large side holes. I might print the plugs for those holes in the spools and then it might work, but I have never had any issues with Sunlu switching, so I just disconnected the cutter from the mount when using those Sunlu spools. Kingroon spools work great just like the Bambu. Those are pretty much all I use currently. Note for those printing, just change to what filament you want and hit print! The existing supports were masterful! Bravo! Most of them just stayed on the plate when removing. Very clean breakaway! Excellent design. Boosted. Going to boost again. not sure why my phone app won’t let me boost and comment, and rate. But 5 Stars!
The designer has replied
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Thanks for the comments! I think it is smart to use the heaviest triggers for PETG. I think PETG it typically softer than PLA so I could imagining it triggering too soon. The trigger force is dependent on the detent spring force which is dependent on the material hardness. I noticed that the Teflon tube is sticking out the bottom of the Slide pretty far. You might want to trim that shorter so the Slide has enough movement to fully engage the blade. Harder materials may require the Slide to move down more than softer materials. Thanks for letting me know about the Sunlu spools. What portion of the Saver is getting caught on the slots in the sides of the spools? I have some ideas for making a narrower version, but it is a pretty big redesign effort. FYI, it might be easier to remove the Body from the Bracket rather than removing the Bracket from the Feeder. Just a thought if you are removing and reattaching it often. Thanks for the comment about the supports! I really didn't want to use any supports, but I just couldn't design around it. for the Bracket. So, I spent a lot of time optimizing it for the best and easiest removal possible. Thanks again!
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Sure thing. The PTFE tubes I did initially have them too long on one set. I tested them in my hand and they did hit so I shortened them a bit before I installed them. There is still a small space left. About the grey Sunlu spools, the right side of the mechanism can get caught as it is feeding. The retraction is fine. When I tried to load one, it caught when the filament was on the right side of the spool pulling the mechanism towards that side. Then as the spool fed, that’s when it caught. The Sunlus have giant spaces on the sides. I took a couple pics to illustrate. I haven’t typically had any issues with the Sunlu spools auto switching, tape or badly wound so the cutter isn’t likely needed with them. The wider Sunlu spools would likely work fine. On Makers there are inserts that can be printed for these spools so that might allow the cutter to be used. I haven’t tried it yet though. My worry was all the many Bambu refills I have that have tape on them. This is perfect for helping in those cases. I do a lot of absentee printing. This helps take the worry off getting tape in my AMS or a jam. Thanks again.
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Replying to @TheHuff109 :
Thanks for the additional info! I can clearly see how those Sunlu spools would be a problem.
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Boosted
Print Profile
!!!OLD!!! AMS Saver Snag Cutter V1.2
No issues at all when printing, good fit. Great design, looks to work as intended, will test and provide feedback at a later stage. For now, only bummer is that the current design is not compatible with AMS dry pods I'm currently using, this cutter trumps the dry pods 😁
The designer has replied
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Thank you for the feedback! The version compatible with desiccant holders is in the works. I just need to figure a couple last things out.
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Boosted
Replying to @hexavalent :
Awsome :D Great work!
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Replying to @hexavalent :
I am very glad to hear that and waiting for it :)
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A most interesting and useful mechanism, could you adapt it for the AMS Lite please
The designer has replied
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Thanks for the feedback. I need to buy an AMS Lite before I can adapt it properly. Maybe this is my excuse to buy one!
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Would you be willing to be a beta tester for the Lite version? You would be able to download the AMS Lite version before anyone else and help me make sure it is working properly.
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I have uploaded an experimental AMS Lite version. It has minimal testing, and I would really appreciate any feedback you have! https://makerworld.com/en/models/1011533#profileId-990997
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Boosted
Excellent design, but mine doesn't line up well with the hole on the AMS so there is a lot of drag. Especially with rolls that are almost empty creating a steep angle. It was causing the spool to crawl out of the AMS while it was loading. I would smooth out that hole opening more like the AMS rather than put in the 1/4" piece of tube. It also has a hard time with the thinner rolls. The one in the picture is Sunlu spool that I use from time to time and the snag cutter assy is about as wide as that spool. It prevented me from loading the spool between the 2 legs in the AMS seen in the second picture, which if I'm not mistaken is there to support thinner rolls and keep it from walking around in the AMS. Last but not least a viewing notch in the "ARM" so you can see the blade would be good as it's hard to tell if it's too far down and at least once the filament was dragging across the blade. Overall its still a great design! Excellent Ingenuity. I printed 4, but right now I only have 1 on my Bambu refill since those are the ones I worry about pulling tape into the AMS.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Thank you for all of the feedback! I have added your issues to my list of things to improve. I know the filament doesn't line up with the funnel very well at first, but once the filament is loaded the funnel moves into alignment pretty well (at least on mine). I get what you are saying about the sharp bend creating on the filament. I think there are some changes I can make to make that bend more gradual. I want to keep the Teflon tube though because I am worried that the PLA print will wear out pretty quickly if filament rubs against it. I don't think there is much I can do about the thinner rolls. I think the lever arm needs to be that long so that there is enough leverage to force the blade into the filament. I haven't tested with all the different filaments, but I want to error on the side of caution. Maybe I can do more testing and shorten the lever arm in the future.  I had a version of the arm with a bend in it so you can see the blade better, but it was making it more difficult to print. I think there is a solution there if I put my mind to it. I will put it on the improvements list.  Thanks again for taking the time to give feedback!
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Replying to @hexavalent :
UPDATE: unfortunately twice now the filament has been cut short with no snag and a piece of filament got stuck in the AMS tube which required me to have to disassemble the AMS to remove it which took about 20min each time since the cables under the AMS are very difficult to reconnect! I have removed these and will likely not reinstall them. Thanks for the reply. For the filament alignment, if you adjust that back just a little i think it would solve the problem. That's a fair consideration for the PLA wearing out, maybe some combination of both? Radiused opening and tube? For the lever arm, I think that length is fine how it is, I was looking at mine again and I think if I remove the reminder bar I can fit it. Not ideal, but should work for the thinner roll. For the Arm I would think you could just thicken it in the right areas (Think Z direction on the assy not Y) and put in a square viewing window it would work. Again i just wanna say this is a brilliant design! my recommendations are obviously just observations and theory and you have mechanical models. Trying to satisfy everyones unique issue is probably not realistic.
(Edited)
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Replying to @RWG1985 :
I'm sorry to hear that they are triggering too soon. You might want to try using the Slide part labeled "Heavy Trigger Force". Unfortunately, the trigger force is dependent on the material stiffness, and I have no way of testing all the different materials. Version 1.3 is live, and it includes a few improvements that you suggested. If you aren't too frustrated you might want to give it a shot. Thank you again for your feedback!
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