PLA Right Mount Only - After AMS Buffer 0.20 Layer Height
Designer
24 min
1 plate
4.9(17)
Special Condition Thicker Wall M10 - Splitter Only
Designer
31 min
1 plate
5.0(13)
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Description
I update, revise and improve my design for my fixes very often. Please only use my Print Profile (Labelled as Designer or SPStudio) to ensure this fix is updated & work well. Profile with Non-Designer tags may be of poor functionality or non updated model.
Click on Like if this model helped you in some way. It is very important and will help increase the exposure of this design to more people who might need it. Cheers!
According to feedback from about 3 users of their Adapter cannot fit into the Ams Hub, i have made this Special Condition version. ONLY IF you are encountering problems fitting the adapter and Ams hub together. Then please download the Special Condition Print Profile.
It should be rather rare probably due to some of the M10 is built different internally compared to what most of us have. Please ensure you push the Ptfe Tube in fully after installation regardless of which version you have downloaded
Update 13 Dec 6am SGT: New detailed assembly video updated. Model slightly refined for proper fitting. If you are having trouble locking the adapter together with the hub please check the video below at 1:07. Thank you.
Update 20 Nov 0906pm SGT: 2 new mounting bracket have been added separately as Print Profiles, Choose whichever you need for the position you want to place the splitter. Also added a New installation video below.
If you need just the splitter not the mount. You can download it under the Splitter Only Print Profile.
Look No Further. This adapter combined with Bambu Ams Lite Hub will allow you to have Smooth 4 Way Splitter.
Installation Video
Step 1 : Screw in the Pc4-M10 Fitting into the Smooth 4 Way Splitter. It does not matter if you can managed to screw the fitting all the way in or not but do not overscrew and jam it till the internal treads is damaged. At the very minimal this need to be screwed in tight till your finger can no longer turn it, can be half or all the way in with the help of plier tools, It does not matter as long as its not loose. My tests shows that there are no changes in performance as long as its tight.
Step 2: You will need to snap off the magnet (as shown in the picture) and use your nips or a penknife to trim it flush with the rest of the body. Doesn't have to be exact. Insert the hub into the adapter offset by 45 degrees, then twist it to lock it into place.
Insert the Ptfe tubes only after you assembled the Splitter.
That's all. now you have Smooth 4 way splitter.
For the installation of bracket, please continue reading.
Cut a piece of Ptfe tube 6.5cm long.
Installation Video For The Mount:
Please follow this to install the Bracket for the Splitter. The screw that you needed for this Fix should be in one of the package that came with the printer likely from the Filament Holder or Scrapper or just find something similar to this specification below.
Its important to get the right size screw as for this fix to work properly there must be no gap from the fix to the rear panel (See instructions below)
Please make sure there are no gap when you are screwing in the screws for the mount.
Please make sure that Ptfe tube is fully inserted into these 2 ends before snapping into the mount.
2nd type of bracket near Ptfe Connector at the tp of the printer. Choose whichever bracket that suits your needs.
Important: Please do not overtighten this during install. In my test if u were to tighten both screw lightly it will give u good holding power without tearing the mounting hole. The thickness of the mounting hole is 0.295mm it have to be this thin to allow users to use the original screw to attach this fix so please… Do Not Overtighten the screw.
To change any of the 4 slots of filament source, simply put the splitter towards you lightly and it will come off the mount.
Special Notes:
If you want to install and mount the splitter with a side spool i would suggest checking out https://makerworld.com/en/models/67476 Its a pretty good and cool design in my opinion.
Important Notes:
Make sure the bowden tubes are FULLY inserted until each one reaches its stop point.
After inserting each tube, you can rotate the tubes back and forth while pressing inward slightly to make sure they're seated squarely and fully.
Glue Stick is recommended but should be ok without.
Ptfe tubes should be cut squarely at the tip (no angled tips), use a deliciated cutter or a penknife.
Pc4 connectors typically have tapered threads. As such, make sure you don't over-tighten them as they can create a “wedge effect” and can cause damage.
The Technical Analysis
Smooth 4 Ways Splitter? How so?
With the A1 Mini launch, something incredible came with it, not many people have noticed it but the Ams Lite Filament Hub is actually the smoothest splitter made by Bambu themself and at just $5.99USD its a fantastic device to help you attach up to 4 source of filament roller / Ams / dry box into 1 Ams buffer and then to the extruder hotend. Yes this can attach 4 Ams to 1 single machine without having the need to buy the Ams Hub. You will still need the Ams Buffer just not the Ams Hub.
There are a lot of errors such as Filament Pull Back Error or similar errors that are caused mainly by friction, as there are a lot of sensors in Bambu machines. Ams has anemic motors and especially cautious sensors. Anything to help the friction along the way (removing bends, etc) will work to solve it. When it hit a threshold when pulling the filament, an error will happen thus reducing the friction we have in our entire system is very important.
Like all my Ams fixes have 1 purpose and its to reduce friction by aligning the tube so the filament can go through smoothly.
Currently most of the splitter in the market are categorized into 3 main type
The first type uses 2 ends of Ptfe tube then modelled a groove in the middle to direct the filament into the exit of the splitter. The design of these splitters consist of the internal structure of the splitter (printed with filament), it might wear out or degrade over time as it grinds against the internal walls of the splitter, when you rub filament (the 1.75mm unprinted filament ) against the walls of the filament in the splitter it will generate friction and the filament wont travel through the splitter smoothly.
The 2nd type of splitter is Ams Lite Filament Hub plugs directly straight into the Ams Buffer and its not ideal as it is non supported, free floating, could misalign with vibrations, especially bad with the weight and movement of 4 Ptfe attached to its rear.
The third type is just connecting a Ptfe connector at the tip of the Ams Lite Filament Hub. Personally i don't think would be ideal because the connector is merely clamping on a few millimeter of the Ams Lite Filament Hub tip, it can be accidentally loosen or move out of alignment because its simply just clamping the internal of the Ptfe Connector to a very small surface area at the Ams Lite Filament Hub tip.
That is not ideal, remember we always want the smoothest route for the filament to pass through all the way to the extruder. And we need it to be well supported.
So i after i gotten my Ams Lite Filament Hub i tried to get it attached to my system, there are only 2 variant of adapter i can find in Makerworld and both of them are rather similar but they have 1 flaw. In the Original design there are 16.15mm of filament passage when routing the filament through into the Pc4-M10 in the original design, Remember i said filament rubbing on filament is a really bad idea and causes tension and friction?
So i remixed the original model, slicing away the unnecessary and non optimal routing, and making it a smaller model with enhancement to the installation of the splitter. The end result is a small attachment that can be attached to the Ams Lite filament hub and zero, yes zero filament rubbing on filament scenario.The filament now go through so smoothly that it feels like its 1 single piece design and not 2 separate parts joining together.
What Mod / Fixes / Enhancement do i offer?
Please don't download the wrong one. Only those in the photos below is designed by me who painstakingly took a lot of time to measure carefully and design just to get it working. #SupportOriginal Love you guys for all the support so far!
i have downloaded this to fit my hub.however it seems the adapter is not long enough.as the ptfe fittings hit the hub tube before getting near being able to screw in
This does not work for me unfortunately...
The AMS Lite filament HUBs pipe reaches the top of your part so I can't even screw the PC4-M10 connector (The HUB pipe can't fit into the connector).
See the photo. I fitted the HUB in your part without the connector for this comment. First I tried like your video but when the connector is tightened to your part I can't even fit the HUB into...
This is correct. You are suppose to screw in the M10 then Lock in this part. The exposed part in your photo goes directly into the M10 fitting which is the main benefit of this splitter against other splitter as it does not brush on any filament internally at all.
Screw in the m10 then push both splitter and adapter against each other then turn and lock. It cannot be too loose fitting as it should not split open mid print if it is too loose. I have tested this model many times it works.
The imagine you are showing is correct and it is normal for the tip to protrude out a little it is part of the design, If you try one side cannot lock in then rotate it as shown in instruction video. then push both parts together and lock.
Yes but what I said is that the HUB did not fit into the PC4-M10 connector ! I have several of them bought on Amazon and AliExpress, the HUB doesn't fit in at all, even if you force it!
This is the same problem as @bobbydavey and @Nix311...
Not sure which P4-M10 connectors everyone is using, but mine (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095P7Z62Y) does not work in this application. I have printed both the normal versions and the "special consideration" one. Both do not have enough height to allow any threads to catch. I expect the issue is that the tapered nozzle of the AMS splitter does not actually insert into my fitting, it simply butts up against it, causing me to need more height. I'll order another couple pneumatic fittings off amazon to test.
@SPStudio - Any chance you can do one with another 3-4mm of height?
Hey i have changed up and improved the entire design and attributed to you for the original creator as a remix. Changed the mounting bracket design too.
You had a good design, i was looking for something to fit my new ams lite filament hub so i saw your product and your license is valid for remix so i went ahead and make improvement on it to make it even better. Prob just the rear end where the locking hinge on the AMS lite hub is left on your design, i redid and remeasured and redesigned the entire design :)
This remix should be using the same license as the model it is based off of ie, the creative commons license. Changing this design to a different license violates the Creative Commons license.
I have a X1C. I am assuming the mount is for the P1S? I don't see the screw holes necessary for the mount. I'm guessing double sided tape...
Great print profile tho.. it came out great.
Thanks
Hi its compatible with all X and P series, For the X series this is where the mount should be on. However u can use any mount in the market as long as the mount is made to hold the AMS Lite Filament Hub thank you.
No worries i am improving that mount currently about to be done the one done by the original creator is slightly off by 1.2mm in which i will fix it so its straight. Do check back in a day.
Got an A1Mini AMS Lite hub and used your files. This works PERFECTLY, and much better than any splitter I'd tried previously. Thank you for figuring out the ideal solution to this problem!
Haven't tested it yet but it already is so much sleeker than the other version that was suggested on Reddit. This seems to be the superior design for the moment.