A1 X-Gantry LED Bar +Switch

A1 X-Gantry LED Bar +Switch

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Print Profile(1)

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A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
1.8 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

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Description

I think we can all agree the lighting on all the Bambu Labs printers is pretty weak and the A1 is no different. Adding more lighting is usually one of my first mods to all my printers. This LED Bar really improves visibility on my print bed and it doesnt take much material, time or effort. It does not interfere at all with the print head movement, just be sure to allow enough wire slack for full range of motion of the Z Axis since it rides on the X-Gantry. Simple print, no supports [for the bar]. I would recommend printing in PETG or better since heat from the LEDs can cause PLA to sag over time. I've now included the install instructions below on how to connect it to the printer power supply. Please support the project with a boost/like if you've found it helpful. Thanks!

 

Update 5/31/24

-Included detailed instructions on connecting LED directly to A1 Power Supply

-Created a snap in switch box that pushes right in to the open slats in the side of the Z tower. (check pictures below)

-Combined everything in to one profile with two different plates to make it easier.

 

Update 5/25/24

-Added an optional Wire Guides profile as I started figuring out my method of wire routing, check below for that continued information.

 

Installation: 

-Remove the two inside bracket screws, one on each side, that hold the X-Gantry in place. Don't worry, there are two other screws on each side inside the bracket that also keep it in place. 

-Line up the holes on the LED Bar and install 3M x 8mm screws since the original screws will now be too short. 

THATS IT! Now you have much better lighting.

 

Here is my A1 Mini Version as well

A1 Mini LED Bar/Switch

 

Running Wires From LED to Switch Box:

So I ran the wires through the X-Gantry mounting bracket, then through a small curved bracket that helps keep the wiring out of the way of rubbing on the tower. It then goes through another small bracket on the side of the X-Motor housing to keep it neat. This bracket pops in to the open slot where the bowden tube holder usually goes. Just push it in place and slide the wire in. You can then zip tie it to the rest of the wiring to run it down to the switch box. I would add a small 2amp fuse for extra precaution if connecting to printer power supply. The power and ground from the LED will run directly to the power supply to turn on and off with the printer [write up on connecting to power supply below]. However, if you are adding a switch then those wires from the LED will go to the switch box provided in the profile as well as a power and ground from the printer power supply. The switch housing just pushes right in to the two slots at the base of the Z Axis tower and run the wires up through the bottom. Easy Peazy.

     

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Running Wires to A1 Power Supply

Lets start off with the disclaimer that this is at your own risk. Not a hard job, just make sure you unplug your printer and power cycle the switch to remove any stored power before proceeding.

 

First you'll need to remove the plastic base plate. We only need to remove the bigger one (on the left), there is no need to remove the smaller one. [1] Screws are highlighted red. [2] You can see the power supply in the 2nd pictures, on the left. [3] We're going to be using the 2 empty terminals. -Vo for Negative Voltage Out and +Vo for Positive Voltage Out.

     

 

After connecting my wires to the terminals, I also used some orange sleeving around the wires as extra protection and you can see how i've run it with the black sleeve that was already in there, using some of the black tape to hold it down also.

 

Now you have two option to run it out of the base. [1] The first option is what I did by running it with the camera/x/z motor plug wires. [2]The second option is moving the sticker out of the way thats covering up one of the unused plug holes (circled in the photo).

   

 

Thats about it, the rest is just connecting it to the switch and you're all set.

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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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thanks for the rating!
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