Back when I had my Ender 3 I made a bolt on LED Bar to the X Gantry that was the best lighting I had on my Ender so I figured I'd give one a shot for the A1 Mini. It really improves visibility on my print bed since the original LED isn't that impressive and it doesnt take much material or effort. It does not interfere at all with the print head movement, just be sure to allow enough wire slack for full range of motion of the Z Axis since the light rides on the X Gantry.

Simple print, no supports. I would recommend printing in PETG or better since heat from the LEDs can cause PLA to sag over time.

LOOKING FOR LED BAR FOR FULL SIZE A1?

UPDATES

5/29/24

• I removed the version one profile since it was inferior to the current version with the added support bar. No reason to keep it up. 
• I included the optional switch panel in all profiles on a 2nd plate, but not the side tray. I did make a profile that is the switch panel and side tray only though for anyone wants the whole setup. 
• Per request I added a horizontal orientation profile [cuts print time of the LED bar by 2 hours]. Let me know how that works out and if you have anymore suggestions 

4/27/24

• I put together a small panel for adding a switch. Currently the panel works with my side storage tray (eventually I'll to make one to work without it). Should be enough room to run the wires up in to the switch box and I added a small loop to pass the cables through coming from the LED. There are small supports on the opening of the switch box and for the attaching stud to the side tray which you can find here if you'd want to add it. Otherwise using a small piece of double sided tape will help affix it till i release a version that doesnt require the side tray

4/21/24

• I've included a detailed write up to help with installing to the power supply on the machine, hope this helps!

4/9/24

• Added a version 2 profile for those of you with printers in enclosures or find heat soak from the LEDs causing sag to the bar. This version should remedy the issue with the addition of an anti-sag support beam from one end to the other. It will also print without supports, but vertically.
• Opened up the screw holes slightly to relieve tolerances to make it a little easier to thread screws in

Check back for future updates as I improve this project!

THIS SHOULD GO WITHOUT SAYING, THIS IS OBVIOUSLY AT YOUR OWN RISK. Just make sure you unplug the printer and discharge any residual power (by flipping the power switch on while unplugged) and you should be fine. I'd also suggest throwing an inline 2 amp fuse from the PSU power wire just to be safe. Hopefully this write up helps. Its actually very easy, but I wanted to try and be as detailed as possible. Don't forget to Boost if this has helped you! =]

Install: reuse the 2 of the extra screws you should have from removing the Z Axis Lock when you first got the printer. Grab your 24v LED strip section and affix it to the bar and run the wires to either your external power source or to the printers power supply under the bottom cover.

NOTE: Removing the base plate on the bottom of the machine will gain access to the 24v PSU which you can use to wire your new (24v) LED strip to for power so it turns on/off with the machine without needing an external power source for it. I plan to incorporate this in detail in future updates with a dedicated switch. You can see how to remove the base plate here

-Photo of all the screw you will take out to remove the base plate.

-You'll see the PSU in the middle, remove 3 more screws that hold on the plastic cover over the terminals.

-There is a -Vo (negative voltage out) and a +Vo (positive voltage out) terminal with no wires going to them. Use these for the light.

-Here are the wires installed to their respective terminals. Note the positive one will bump in to the screw hole as its in the path of the wire, but isn't a big deal. You'll still be able to reinstall the cover.

I've come up with two easy options for running the wires out of the base.

OPTION 1: The clip gap for one of the 2nd input [where the AMS plugs in]. AS OF NOW, you can only use one AMS and there aren't other attachments to utilize the 2nd input plug.

OPTION 2: On the bottom panel (you removed) there's a lid you can pop to reveal an open hole for running wires out. Theres even a wire path. I've actually found, depending on the gauge wire you use, you can just run the wire through on of the holes in the cable path directly out from the power supply.

GOES WITHOUT SAYING BE CAREFUL

SWITCH PANEL INSTALLATION

These are the switch's I used

Standard crimp quick connectors for the switch terminals

Run Your wires through the opening to attach the to the switch and pop the switch in to place.

Now just pop the tab in the little hole on the back side of the printer tower and push the front tab in to the side tray. (Tab not pictures in photos becuz I added later)