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Well... I finally managed to destroy an H2C nozzle. 😅 The nozzle on the left is the result of a collision with a large PA6-GF25 part that lifted from the build plate during a long print. Everything looked fine at the beginning. Good first layer, good adhesion, no warning signs. A few hours later the part started to warp, the nozzle hit it, and that was the end of the story. The printer stopped itself, but the nozzle was already damaged. On the right is the new replacement nozzle. It's a good reminder that engineering materials can be unforgiving. Sometimes a print can look perfect for hours and then decide to teach you an expensive lesson. 😄 For the next attempt I'll definitely use more adhesion and a larger brim. Has anyone else here had a nozzle casualty because of a warped PA-CF or PA-GF print? — Yemi #H2C
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Wow 👀 the H2C is a lot of Printer and I am in Love with every bit of it 😍 Yes, the first print was a benchie, of course 🙃 I have so much to learn, but looking forward to every minute and every project! 👍 Oh and it does come with x 4 .4 nozzles, a .2 and a .6 There is another dedicated .4 nozzle on the left side as well. The nozzle pack has X 3 .4 nozzles but the printer (right side) comes pre-installed with a .4 nozzle. @BambuLab really thought this through! 😍 Thank you again to all of those that downloaded, printed, and boosted my models. I am extremely grateful 🙏 #Sharing Tips #H2C
Do you want to get an H2C 🤔
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https://makerworld.com/en/models/2772097-filament-track-switch-tpu-feed-assist-mounts#profileId-3158967 I’ve just released new combined H2-series mounts for the Filament Track Switch and TPU Feed Assist modules. Both combined mounts for both modules and individual mounts are available. The main focus was on a compact design and a smooth filament path to minimize friction. Do you need other versions for your setup, or do you have any suggestions for improvements? Your input is very welcome! #Newmodel #H2C #Bambu H2D #Sharing Makes #Bambulab(Edited)
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#Thank You! Yesterday I got the new #H2C Bambu lab 3D printer with a 40w laser combo completely for free with points! This thing is awesome and is way larger than my X1C printer! Thanks for all the support guys!!!
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New drop! 🚨 54 brand-new character busts just added — and every bust (old + new) now ships with a WALL MOUNT version with a screw hole on the back. 66 characters total, 132 STLs, split into 13 volumes. Start here (Vol. 1 of 13): https://makerworld.com/en/models/2702216 — the other 12 are cross-linked in each description Thanks to everyone who asked for wall mounts and more characters — you shouted, I printed. #Newmodel #h2c #x2d #Decor #DeskDecor(Edited)
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Glasses Holder Bust Collection - Famous Edition
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Multi-Color Design - Tips and Tricks
Multi-Color Design - Tips and Tricks
Hey all! With the latest improvements in 3D printing, wasteless multi-color 3D printing is becoming more accessible than ever and so I've put together this guide on tips, tricks, and considerations for designing multi-color/material 3D models. I'm using the Bambu Lab H2C, Bambu Studio, and FreeCAD for this guide and its images. Slicer Painting Tips and TricksJust like we've done previously, we can paint our models in Bambu Studio using the Color Painting Tool:  Inside this tool, the best 'brush' to use is the Fill - Edge Detection. It allows you to hover over a section of the model and paint it to a color in one click.  You can see that the Fill tool painted a whole section that wasn't just one face, but a series of faces that had soft angles between them. You can make the fill more discerning by decreasing the "Smart Fill Angle" or make it select more by increasing that same value. Below, you can see that a low "Smart Fill Angle" selects just the one face, while a higher value selects the whole shoulder.  Sometimes, when I don't want to fill a whole face or the Fill tool isn't accurate enough, the Triangle tool is my next choice. It colors in a single face of the model like so: Multi-Body DesignIf you've designed models for multi-color before, you may have noticed that painting it in the slicer can be a bit tedious or that sometimes the way the slicer handles the painting isn't ideal.Here's an example of a simple paint that has an unsuitable overhang:  You can see that instead of full regular bridges, the left and right of the underside has floating overhangs.So instead of painting the model, I've made this design a multi-body model, where each part of the robot is a different body.  With this multi-body model, instead of painting, I can change the filament for one of the sub-bodies like so:  The painted model and the filament-changed model look the same in the slicer, but take a look at how they slice:  You can see the right model has clean straight bridges and won't have any drooping filament when it's printed. This is kind of 'painting' is much easier to do as well, if you've designed your model to be multi-body. You can go to the Objects tab in the left sidebar and right-click any sub-body to change it's filament:  There is one thing to note with this method, and it's that the order of the bodies within the model is important. The slicer goes top-down and 'creates' the first body, then 'creates' the next body. If the next body intersects with the first body, the first body will have the next body cut out of it. This repeats down the line, so the lower on the list a body is, the later it's 'created' and conversely the higher bodies on the list will have the negative shape of every other body cut out from it.This is important, because to achieve proper bridges and avoid other issues, certain bodies need to be lower on the list. In my example above, the 'waist' body needs to be one of the last ones, after the legs, to allow the bridges to be properly made. Fortunately, we can combine both types of painting at the same time! So you can block out a model and have its major parts painted by changing the filament of the body and then have details hand-painted in. So now you know why multi-body design is useful, but how can you do it?Creating Multi-Body DesignsI use FreeCAD for most of my designs, but most CAD software can export as a .STEP file. Exporting multiple bodies into one .STEP file will keep all those bodies relative to each other in space, but behave as one object in the slicer. You'll be able to go into the Objects tab again and see and work with the sub-bodies of the model.  If you use Blender, worry not, as you can do the same thing by exporting multiple bodies as a .3MF file. This can brought into Bambu Studio just the same with the result being the same as a multi-body .STEP file. Here's an example of a multi-body .3MF file that I've made using Gravity Sketch VR.  Hopefully this is a bit enlightening on how to approach multi-color design, and if you have any questions or comments, please let me know! Thanks all!
(Edited)
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This is an EXCELLENT article written by our very own @KitCrafters It is presented professionally and even included some great illustrations. Enjoy Learning! #Sharing Tips #H2C
Multi-Color Design - Tips and Tricks
Multi-Color Design - Tips and Tricks
Hey all! With the latest improvements in 3D printing, wasteless multi-color 3D printing is becoming more accessible than ever and so I've put together this guide on tips, tricks, and considerations for designing multi-color/material 3D models. I'm using the Bambu Lab H2C, Bambu Studio, and FreeCAD for this guide and its images. Slicer Painting Tips and TricksJust like we've done previously, we can paint our models in Bambu Studio using the Color Painting Tool:  Inside this tool, the best 'brush' to use is the Fill - Edge Detection. It allows you to hover over a section of the model and paint it to a color in one click.  You can see that the Fill tool painted a whole section that wasn't just one face, but a series of faces that had soft angles between them. You can make the fill more discerning by decreasing the "Smart Fill Angle" or make it select more by increasing that same value. Below, you can see that a low "Smart Fill Angle" selects just the one face, while a higher value selects the whole shoulder.  Sometimes, when I don't want to fill a whole face or the Fill tool isn't accurate enough, the Triangle tool is my next choice. It colors in a single face of the model like so: Multi-Body DesignIf you've designed models for multi-color before, you may have noticed that painting it in the slicer can be a bit tedious or that sometimes the way the slicer handles the painting isn't ideal.Here's an example of a simple paint that has an unsuitable overhang:  You can see that instead of full regular bridges, the left and right of the underside has floating overhangs.So instead of painting the model, I've made this design a multi-body model, where each part of the robot is a different body.  With this multi-body model, instead of painting, I can change the filament for one of the sub-bodies like so:  The painted model and the filament-changed model look the same in the slicer, but take a look at how they slice:  You can see the right model has clean straight bridges and won't have any drooping filament when it's printed. This is kind of 'painting' is much easier to do as well, if you've designed your model to be multi-body. You can go to the Objects tab in the left sidebar and right-click any sub-body to change it's filament:  There is one thing to note with this method, and it's that the order of the bodies within the model is important. The slicer goes top-down and 'creates' the first body, then 'creates' the next body. If the next body intersects with the first body, the first body will have the next body cut out of it. This repeats down the line, so the lower on the list a body is, the later it's 'created' and conversely the higher bodies on the list will have the negative shape of every other body cut out from it.This is important, because to achieve proper bridges and avoid other issues, certain bodies need to be lower on the list. In my example above, the 'waist' body needs to be one of the last ones, after the legs, to allow the bridges to be properly made. Fortunately, we can combine both types of painting at the same time! So you can block out a model and have its major parts painted by changing the filament of the body and then have details hand-painted in. So now you know why multi-body design is useful, but how can you do it?Creating Multi-Body DesignsI use FreeCAD for most of my designs, but most CAD software can export as a .STEP file. Exporting multiple bodies into one .STEP file will keep all those bodies relative to each other in space, but behave as one object in the slicer. You'll be able to go into the Objects tab again and see and work with the sub-bodies of the model.  If you use Blender, worry not, as you can do the same thing by exporting multiple bodies as a .3MF file. This can brought into Bambu Studio just the same with the result being the same as a multi-body .STEP file. Here's an example of a multi-body .3MF file that I've made using Gravity Sketch VR.  Hopefully this is a bit enlightening on how to approach multi-color design, and if you have any questions or comments, please let me know! Thanks all!
(Edited)
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hey! I've released this new model today for my growing ecosystem of H2 printer accessories! It is a plug and play replacement for the stock input terminal with two ports per nozzle. If there's enough interest, a version with three ports per side will follow :) I personally use this model to bundle two "four-in-two" adapters. check out the model post for more information 👍🏻 #H2C #Bambu H2D #Newmodel #Sharing Models
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My First Bambu H2C Print (and Why a Zebra Benchy Was a Bad Idea) My Bambu H2C got delivered this week. Obviously, I wanted to test everything at once: speed, multicolor, toolhead changes, and reliability. So I came up with the idea of printing a Zebra Benchy. That turned out to be… educational. So I downloaded the Benchy model in Bambu Studio, rotated it 30 degrees over the X-axis, randomly painted layers black and rotated it back to it's original angle. Against Bambu Studio's advice, I chose no prime tower because the prime tower doubled the amount of filament needed What went wrong During the print, two things happened: 1. The printer reported filament feed issues: the extruder overloaded. 2. Shortly after, it threw an error related to the hotend locking mechanism. The print itself showed classic symptoms: • inconsistent stripes • rough transitions between colors • visible extrusion issues right after color changes At first glance, this feels worrying. New printer, errors, half-finished Benchy. Why this was not a good idea In hindsight, a Zebra Benchy combines multiple worst-case scenarios: • Very frequent color changes Each stripe means a toolhead action, pressure loss, and re-engagement. This heavily stresses the system. • Small, unforgiving geometry The Benchy is tiny. There’s no room to “recover” after a color change. Any imperfection becomes visible immediately. • High visual contrast Black and white make even minor defects obvious. • I printed this with a nearly empty white filament spool The last meters of filament tend to feed less smoothly, which adds mechanical resistance at exactly the wrong moment. This is what triggered the filament feed issue Put together, this was not a normal print. It’s was a stress test. The important takeaway: Nothing was broken ☺️ and the printer did exactly what it should do: • it detected abnormal conditions • it stopped instead of forcing parts • it protected itself In other words: the H2C passed its first test. I've owned a A1 and a P1S, but I'm super impressed by the overall build quality of the H2C. The Vortek system is pure magic and I'm really excited to continue exploring what the #H2C can do!
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For real this time, #H2C Hello! Recently, I’ve been taking a break from posting and designing. I’ll be answering some questions that you might be thinking about. -Why were you gone? I was toying around with the new H2C, and I’ve really been loving it! It makes multicolor prints so much easier and I’ve saved so much waste. -Will you still be posting models? Of course! I’ve just been enjoying the whole “user” aspect of makerworld, printing others’ models and putting them together. I’ll just stop aiming at the whole popularity aspect and not be confined to a schedule. In other words, I’ll just be uploading models less. -What’s the inspiration behing the misfits? Why are they that style? I saw all the graffiti in a particular city and was awestruck. I immediately got on a VR and designed an inspired model. I was also inspired by @SuperNfty ‘s SuperDots. Thanks! FoF
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I’ve received significant feedback that pulling fumes directly from the H-series chamber is a BAD idea (over-cooling or over-working the heater), but my initial testing suggests it’s a non-issue. Hopefully some of you will find it interesting: https://youtube.com/shorts/a0qDao-2EY8?si=fyz0O5qNTPeHfvCj #Bambu H2D #H2C #H2S
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With the assistance of my friend @user_91574511 (wonderlabs), I held an offline exhibition in Shanghai! I must say that H2C was a great help to me. #Let's Make it fund #H2C
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The modular NMS received a major update today! This replacement part for the previously used bambu 4in1 adapters brings the overall resistance down by a lot! This may solve feeding/retracting issues when using my system for setups with fairly long PTFE tubes. Learn more in the model description! #Newmodel #Sharing Makes #Bambu H2D #H2C #Upgrade
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Hey guys!! Merry Christmas eveybody! As this month we made Grandpa Gohan file for our Patrons we added a free Christmas gift for everybody who is following us on Patreon! Grandpa Gohan Mask and stand. Go get it and print it!! Printed with #H2C #Christmas Gifts #Christmas
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I had printed by H2C more than 600 hours. A lot of colour work finished! It was very efficient and stable for me, which made my personal exhibition possible. #H2C #Comingsoon #Newmodel
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The most huge size I've ever hit! It took a full 60 hours! I think the stability of the machine can really stand the test.Because of this, my attempts have become bolder and more daring, and now 24-hour printing is very reassuring for me #H2C #Newmodel #Sharing Makes
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Is the H2C worth the price or would a P2S be better? #H2C #P2S #Which is better? I would like to hear your thoughts.
H2C worth it?
28%
No way! Get the P2S!
38%
Worth the price! Nice printer!
34%
Depends.
76 votes
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Got my hands on my old Architecture School hard drive and struck gold. 800 miniature low poly people. So here you go guys, give them the best use possible ! #newmodel #P2S #Miniature #Architecture #People #H2c(Edited)
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New printer, who dis? #H2C (thanks to everyone who boosted my Models)(Edited)
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