Almost ready for release. I’m finishing the last tests on this new flip cover for the Bambu Lab H2 Series. Designed to protect the display, keep the front area cleaner, and add a more finished look to the machine without changing the original style. This one is already mounted on my H2C and I’m checking the final details before publishing. If everything goes well, it should be online tomorrow. Hope you like it YEMI 3DLAB #Bambu H2D #Bambu H2S #bambu H2C #H2C #H2D #H2S

A little heart for a big love: Cuba 🇨🇺 These Cuba Heart Earrings are lightweight, colorful and made for anyone who carries Cuba in their heart. Perfect as earrings, charms, pendants or a small gift. Sorry for the cropped photo 😅 I’m always running around and sleeping way too little lately. If you like Cuba too, leave a like on the model — it really helps. 🇨🇺(Edited)

New 2026 Scraper is finally here! I’m really happy to share this new scraper design with you. We wanted to create something that is not only useful, but also nice to keep on your desk, next to your printer, and use every day. It has a bold Bambu-inspired look, a comfortable shape, and a more modern style compared to the usual simple scrapers. This is one of those small tools that you print once… and then you keep using all the time. Perfect for your 3D printing workspace, for removing prints, cleaning small edges, and keeping your setup more practical and organized. I love the color contrast on this version, especially the blue, grey and orange combination. It gives it that “real maker tool” feeling, but still keeps it fun and clean. If you print it, please share your photos in the comments. I always love seeing your prints, your colors, and how you use our models in your own setup. Thank you so much for your support! More functional designs are coming soon. #Tools #Bambulab #Scraper(Edited)

100 models. 🚀 Today I published my 100th model on MakerWorld. What makes this milestone special for me is that I started this journey in November 2025 with no real expectations. Just an idea, some CAD software, and the desire to create useful things. Since then, there have been late evenings designing, failed prints, redesigns, small wins, unexpected successes, and a lot of learning. This scraper is model number 100. Looking at it, I don't just see a tool. I see every lesson learned along the way. A huge thank you to everyone who downloaded a model, shared a photo, left a comment, reported a problem, or supported my work with a Boost. Your feedback helped shape many of these designs. The first 100 models are done. Now it's time to start working on model 101. Thank you for being part of the journey. — Yemi #Newmodel #MakerWorld #3DPrinting(Edited)

Fresh filament delivery! 😎 I received the new PLA Pure colors today and couldn’t wait to start testing them. Time to see how they perform in real prints, not just on the spool. I’ll be running benchmark prints, functional parts, and a few stress tests to see what they’re really capable of. Any favorite color in this lineup? 🎨👇 Vote for your favorite: 🖤 Black 🟡 Yellow 🩷 Pink 🤍 White 🩵 Light Blue

Well... I did it again. 😅 The A2L has officially joined the workshop. Calibration is running and I'm already thinking about what to print first. Every time I say I have enough printers, another one somehow finds its way here. 😂 Anyone else using an A2L already? Any tips, favorite upgrades, or must-print accessories? — Yemi #a2L

Well... I finally managed to destroy an H2C nozzle. 😅 The nozzle on the left is the result of a collision with a large PA6-GF25 part that lifted from the build plate during a long print. Everything looked fine at the beginning. Good first layer, good adhesion, no warning signs. A few hours later the part started to warp, the nozzle hit it, and that was the end of the story. The printer stopped itself, but the nozzle was already damaged. On the right is the new replacement nozzle. It's a good reminder that engineering materials can be unforgiving. Sometimes a print can look perfect for hours and then decide to teach you an expensive lesson. 😄 For the next attempt I'll definitely use more adhesion and a larger brim. Has anyone else here had a nozzle casualty because of a warped PA-CF or PA-GF print? — Yemi #H2C

Funny thing... Every year we get new engineering filaments, stronger materials, carbon fiber blends, glass fiber blends, and all sorts of fancy options. And yet, I still get excited when I see a new PLA. 😄 The new PLA Pure caught my attention and now I'm wondering how it actually compares to the PLA many of us already use every day. Sometimes the filament that gets used the most isn't the strongest one. It's the one that loads easily, prints reliably, and gives nice-looking results without any surprises. Maybe I'm not the only one who thinks that way. Has anyone here already tried PLA Pure? I'd love to see some real prints and hear your honest opinion. 👇 What filament do you end up using the most in your workshop? Not your favorite on paper... The one that's actually on your printer most of the time. — Yemi

🛠️ A little confession from a maker... For a long time, I completely ignored grease and oil. Until one of my printers started making that familiar sound we all know — that tiny squeak that makes you think: "Maybe I should take a look at this..." 😅 Since then, I always keep a few tubes of lubricant in my workshop. It's not as exciting as a new hotend, a new filament, or a freshly designed model, but it's one of those small things that makes a big difference over time. The printer runs smoother. The motion feels better. The machine is quieter. And most importantly, you know everything is working the way it should. One thing I've learned is that preventive maintenance only takes a few minutes. Waiting for a problem to appear usually takes a lot longer to fix. Nowadays, whenever I clean my printers, I also check: ✔️ Z lead screws ✔️ Linear rods and rails ✔️ Dust buildup ✔️ General motion components These are the little jobs nobody sees in the photos we post online, but they're often the reason a printer keeps running reliably after hundreds or even thousands of hours. So now I'm curious... How often do you lubricate your printers? And how many of you are reading this right now thinking: "Yeah... I should probably do that this weekend." 😆 👇 Share your maintenance routine in the comments. I'd love to hear what works for you. — Yemi

One of the topics that always seems to divide the 3D printing community is: Glue or no glue? 😄 Personally, I use both. Lately I've been printing quite a few parts in PC and PC-ABS, so I've been using Magigoo PC and Bambu Lab Liquid Glue quite a lot. Many people think glue is only there to improve bed adhesion, but for me that's often not the main reason. In many cases, especially with engineering materials, I use it as a protective layer between the part and the build plate. Some materials can stick so well that removing the print becomes the real challenge. A thin layer of adhesive can help prevent damage to the plate and make part removal much safer. For PLA, I rarely feel the need to use it. But when printing materials like ABS, ASA, PC, PC-ABS, or nylon-based filaments, I'd rather spend a few drops of adhesive than risk a 10+ hour print failure. At the end of the day, it's one of those small workshop tools that costs very little but can save a lot of time, frustration, and wasted filament. I'm curious about your experience. Do you use glue? A specific brand? Hairspray? Or just a perfectly clean build plate? 👇 Let me know in the comments. — Yemi 🛠️ #3DPrinting #MakerWorld #BambuLab #EngineeringFilaments #Magigoo #Polycarbonate #PCABS #MakersCommunity #3DPrintTips #FunctionalPrinting(Edited)

🛠️ One of the tools I use most often on my workbench. When I got this little hand drill, I thought I would only use it occasionally. I was wrong. 😄 Now it sits right next to my printer, and I find myself reaching for it almost every day. I use it to clean up holes, adjust magnet pockets, refine printed parts, and make small tweaks whenever a tolerance is just a little too tight. What I appreciate most is the control it gives me. There’s no risk of removing too much material in a matter of seconds like can happen with a power drill, especially when working with small and delicate parts. It’s funny how some of the simplest tools become the ones you can’t live without. What about you? What’s one tool you bought without high expectations, but now use almost every day? 👇 I’d love to hear your answers. — Yemi #3Dprintingtools

Scaling the workflow. 2× AMS HT added — one for X2D — one for H2 Not for redundancy. For separation. Different machines. Different materials. Different roles. Because once everything is mixed, you lose control. Most setups grow. Very few get structured. Now each system has its own lane. Let’s see if this actually improves consistency.

Hot take: there’s a real difference between a scraper designed to look good… and one designed to work. So I did a direct comparison. On the table: • Official MakerWorld Mag-Alloy scraper • My printed scraper versions (multiple iterations) Same purpose. Different design approaches. After testing them side by side, here’s what stands out: 👉 The metal version offers excellent rigidity 👉 Printed versions can achieve very good control — if designed correctly 👉 Each solution has strengths depending on how it’s used And this is the key point: Material matters. But geometry defines performance. From a design perspective, the real differences are: 1. Load path → how force travels from hand to edge 2. Blade support → how well the edge is stabilized 3. Micro flex → controlled vs uncontrolled deformation This is where design makes the biggest difference. A good scraper is not just about: • clean aesthetics • printability It’s about: • predictable control • consistent contact • confidence under pressure Curious to hear your experience: A) Metal B) Hybrid C) Printed (well designed) What are you actually using day to day? I’m working on a new iteration based on these observations. More focused on real usage. More focused on performance. I’ll share updates soon.(Edited)

I’ve been testing different poop solutions on the new X2D in this day, and I noticed something interesting. Most designs focus only on capacity. But during longer prints, airflow around the side panel becomes a real factor: – heat buildup – reduced ventilation – poor integration with the machine So I tried a different approach: introducing a controlled gap to preserve airflow while keeping stability. Curious to hear your thoughts: Do you prioritize capacity or airflow on your setups?

🔥 P2S vs X2D — real talk I keep seeing people say the P2S is already “outdated”. Honestly, that’s not what I’m seeing using these machines every day. I started with the P2S and, with no big expectations… it surprised me. No dual nozzle, no hype features. But it prints. Every time. And that’s what actually matters. clean prints reliable AMS fast enough very few issues It quickly became part of my daily workflow. Then I got the X2D. The dual nozzle? Yeah, it’s a real upgrade. Especially for multi-material and overall workflow. But saying that people who recently bought a P2S “got ripped off”… doesn’t make sense. If a machine prints well today, it doesn’t stop tomorrow just because something new came out. I think a lot of people are looking at specs, not what actually happens when you print every day. 👉 A well-tuned P2S easily covers 90% of real-world use. The X2D gives you more possibilities. The P2S gets the job done. For context: I’m also running H2C and H2D alongside these. After using all of them daily, one thing stands out: consistency and reliability matter more than specs. If I had to sum it up: P2S = workhorse X2D = evolution Both make sense, just for different reasons. I’m starting to design specifically for the X2D, but the P2S is still doing most of the heavy lifting. And that says a lot. 💬 What about you? Upgrading to X2D or sticking with P2S?

While most people sleep… the machines keep running. ⸻ No noise. No distractions. Just process. ⸻ This is where consistency is built. Layer by layer. Hour after hour. ⸻ What people don’t see: The real work is not posting models. It’s: • testing • failing • refining • repeating ⸻ ⚙️ Night prints hit different. You don’t watch them. You trust them. ⸻ And in the morning? You don’t just have a print. You have data. ⸻This is not a hobby. It’s a system.#NightShift(Edited)

I designed a custom Bambu Lab keychain for the door of my workshop.If you’re a 3D printing enthusiast and part of the Bambu ecosystem, you might enjoy this little project as much as I do. I started my journey with Anycubic, Prusa, and Creality printers, but today my lab is fully powered by Bambu Lab machines:Two A1 with AMSTwo P2S with AMSOne H2D with AMS and 10W laser moduleOne H2C with AMSFeel free to remix, scale, or recolor it to fit your setup. (Front and Rear Picture)

Real desk, real print. 1 mm ultra-thin desk skin in daily use — flat, rigid, and out of the way.(Edited)

A quick thought on functional 3D design One of the most common mistakes in 3D printing is optimizing a part that shouldn’t exist in the first place. It shows up as: - thicker walls instead of better geometry - higher infill instead of proper load paths - stronger materials instead of fixing stress points If a part only works when everything is oversized, the issue isn’t the printer or the filament. It’s the design. Good functional design means: - reasonable wall thickness - no extreme infill required - geometry doing the work, not brute force Before touching print settings, it’s worth asking: - Does this part really need to exist? - Can the function be simplified or removed? - Can geometry solve the problem instead of material? Optimization comes after design. Strong prints start in CAD, not in the slicer.

🛠️ Bambu Lab Hand Drill Kit – quick thoughts after using it At first I thought this was just another accessory. It’s not. It’s a small manual precision drill, and it ended up being way more useful than expected, especially for functional prints. I mainly use it when: holes come out a bit tight (M2 / M3) magnet pockets need a tiny adjustment I don’t want to risk ruining a finished part with a power drill With an electric drill it’s very easy to: melt plastic, oval the hole, or crack the part. With this, you actually feel what the material is doing. My usual workflow now is: design the hole slightly undersized → print → a few slow turns by hand → perfect fit. It’s not something you need on day one, but once it’s on your desk, you start reaching for it without thinking. For magnets, snap-fits, and clean post-processing, it just makes sense. Curious how others are using it — magnets, screws, or something else? https://eu.store.bambulab.com/it/products/hand-drill-kit?id=670780706056093708