Hello everyone, I’m currently struggling with a FEM simulation problem related to 3D printed parts, and I hope someone here has experience with a similar workflow. My situation: I designed a part in Autodesk Inventor 2024. The real part is FDM 3D printed with 10% infill and defined wall thicknesses. I want to simulate mechanical loads using FEM. The problem: Inventor’s FEM simulation treats the model as a fully solid body, which massively overestimates stiffness and strength compared to the real printed part. This makes the simulation results unrealistic and not comparable to the physical component. What I am trying to achieve: I want a CAD model that matches the real printed structure, meaning: actual wall thicknesses (perimeters), internal infill geometry (e.g. gyroid / grid), ideally also reflecting the layered nature of FDM printing. My idea was: Start from a STEP (STP) file. Slice it using Bambu Studio (latest version) with the same print settings as the real part. Convert the sliced result back into a CAD model (STEP or at least a clean STL) that includes walls and infill. Use this geometry for FEM simulation. Software used: CAD: Autodesk Inventor 2024 Slicer: Bambu Studio (latest version) My questions: Is there any known workflow to convert sliced geometry (or G-code) back into a usable CAD or FEM-ready solid? Are there tools or plugins that can reconstruct infill and perimeters as real geometry? Or is the recommended approach to use homogenized material models / anisotropic materials instead of real geometry? How do you realistically simulate FDM parts with low infill in FEM? Any advice, tools, papers, or real-world experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!#FEM #Engineering #Troubleshooting #converter #Questions

🧊 Ice Ball Maker V2 – Jetzt mit TPU-Innenteilen! Die neue Version besteht aus einer festen PETG-Außenhülle und zwei flexiblen TPU A95-Innenteilen – so lässt sich die Eiskugel ganz leicht entnehmen. ⚠️ Wichtig: Nur TPU für die Innenteile verwenden. Vor dem ersten Gebrauch gründlich reinigen, sonst könnten TPU-Fäden in der Eiskugel landen. Nach dem Einfrieren 5 Min. warten, damit sich die TPU-Form einfach vom PETG lösen lässt. Perfekte Kugeln – ideal für Drinks! 🥃

Question about H2D nozzle buildup – normal or am I doing something wrong? Hey everyone, I’ve been noticing quite a bit of “gabagoo” (residue) collecting on the nozzle tips of my H2D. I actually removed the little silicone sock because I thought it might help – and it did improve things slightly – but even without it, it’s still not really acceptable. Every now and then, a bit of residue ends up ruining a print. The worst part is when the little silicone piece (during nozzle change) slides over to the other nozzle and drags along the wrong color. That’s a huge issue when printing black and white – it completely messes things up. So here’s my question to you: Is this just something I have to live with when using the H2D, or am I doing something seriously wrong? Would love to hear your experience and any tips!

Dieses 3D-druckbare Schild bringt das berühmte "This is Fine"-Meme in die physische Welt! Das Motiv zeigt einen entspannten Hund, der gelassen bleibt, während um ihn herum alles in Flammen steht – ein Sinnbild für absurden Optimismus in chaotischen Situationen. Perfekt als Deko für dein Regal, Büro oder Makerspace, als Geschenk für Meme-Fans oder als humorvolle Erinnerung daran, die Ruhe zu bewahren, egal was passiert.

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After 3 tries I finally managed to make round ice balls for my drinks. You shouldn't fill it completely with water. After freezing it is enough to pour warm water over the model and with a little patience you can open it and remove the ball. Do you perhaps have any suggestions for improvement? Best regards