Please read the full description, this will not be suitable for everyone!

I had the AMS loading issues that some people seem to encounter, load unload load unload load unload fail! I used https://makerworld.com/en/models/23655#profileId-26442 but it still failed occasionally, and I was going to try others, but these are all annoying to remove, and they are rigid and could impact the inside of the printer if they are allowed to flop around unconstrained by the PTFE, so…

This flexible tapering sock pops on the top of the print head like the others, but it pops on and tugs off HUGELY more easily, and is still secure. I printed it in 30D flexible filament but the more accessible 95A has been reported to work well too. There are three versions, the shorter one without holes was my first attempt, and it was fine, but I felt the longer one with holes induced a more perfect curve of my PTFE tube. The final long one without holes performs best of all in my view, but each of these three need more and more head room!

This will NOT BE SUITABLE for you if you have a lid but do not have a riser which adds sufficient extra over head clearance! You probably need a 2cm riser for the long one with holes, and I'm using the long one without holes now, and a 3cm riser is best with that IMO. You may find it work better with the PTFE tube removed from the cable chain clip if your PTFE tube is the standard, stock supplied length. I have replaced my PTFE tube with one a bit longer, which meant I could put it back in the clip, and that's better because it doesn't slop around as the print head moves, and helps maintain the consistency of the PTFE tube into the print head as well.

Since using any of these socks, I've not heard the AMS retry a reload once… your mileage may vary of course! Note that the PTFE tube profile when it's in the AMS reload position beds in a bit when you first print as it gets pulled around the print bed. So your absolutely perfect PTFE bend profile may change a bit after you first start… just something I noticed.

I used 30D, but that's just what I thought to use from the get go. 95A has now been reported to work too though now. I printed the 30D using entirely stock BBL Generic 95A TPU settings, without a brim, because brims are demonic with TPU, using the engineering plate. It was uncomfortably easy to remove after, but it's a fairly quick print, I did several during design iteration and they all stuck, so seems OK.

I was, with a little wriggling able to insert the PTFE tube into the sock from the tapered end, but if you can't do that it will obviously be easy to do from the wide end, you'll just have to detach the PTFE tube at the back of the printer.