9/1/2024:  I'm working on an update to this design, which will incorporate a flip up block to raise the front of the glass to allow for venting when necessary.  You can follow the progress of the updates on my blog (https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog/update-for-the-x1cp1pp1s-led-riser-is-in-the-works ).

I'd recommend that anyone making this consider the components used, and make their own choices on what is appropriate.  But note that this was designed for a 2 wire connection to the LEDs, which means it will not work with RGB LEDs (only single color, like these).   If you see something I should correct here, please let me know. I am not an electronics expert, and I don't claim to be an expert on this stuff, only a hobbyist. And as always, if you make or use one of these, it is at your own risk. Also, please don't run with scissors, always wear safety glasses, and do your own research, and have fun!

Dkarjadi's DK Riser is amazing, and exactly what I would have used, however I did not want vents in my enclosure. I'm working on a project to vent the printer using a ducted fan, so I need to minimize holes in the enclosure. Fortunately Dkarjadi provided the STEP files, so remixing his design was an option for me.

This version adds some additional features which take advantage of some of the space that is freed up by removing the vents. These include:

• A switch for the LED's on the front (note that I made this to use the white COB LED's I had, it will not work with RBG LEDs. 
• A small label for the front, which can be customized (a blank STL and STEP are included)
• A DC input jack on the back, and an optional fuse
• All wiring is enclosed and covered
• A holder for the Bambu AMS Disconnect Tool, which is the most used tool on my printer.
• Taller at 40mm, allows me to let the Bowden tube run free (no Bowden guide needed)

The model posted here has some updates which I thought may be beneficial, after assembling and using mine. One of the updates (the TPU top covers) however, are not tested. The TPU top covers included here have an overlap, which should help better isolate light leaks. This version appears to slice fine, and is included in the .3mf. If you prefer to print a tested part, please use the TPU covers included in the original DK Riser design (which this was remixed from), since those are also compatible (I did not include those here). If you choose to make the untested TPU top covers, please provide feedback on them.

A list of suggested parts and additional info for this can be found on my site:

https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog/dk-riser-remix-is-posted

Building this will require some soldering, and a few tools like screwdrivers, wires cutters, wire strippers, and a heat gun to shrink some heat shrink on the wires.  Superglue is also needed to secure the TPU covers, and I also dabbed a bit on the switch and the DC inlet jack to help secure them.  Since this is somewhat of an electronics project, it also requires some knowledge of how to connect the LEDs, switch and fuse, and is therefore an at your own risk project.  

Update 2/7/2024 - I removed all labels except for the blank label, in order to comply with the MakerWorld announcement of 2024-01-08 regarding using their logo or name in designs without permission. However the STEP and STL's are included for a blank label, which can be used as-is (blank), or by adding text within the slicer.  I made the following animated GIF to explain how to add text for another project, but it is the same process that can be used to add custom text to the blank label.  The frames in the animation take 5-10 sec each, so give it time to start running.  The “Orbitron” font is a close match for the Bambu font if you want to keep the Bambu aesthetic going on the label.
 

The STL's are not oriented for printing, however if you use the .3mf (which was created in OrcaSlicer), the parts are set up to print. Note however that I did not test the 3mf (since I printed parts piecemeal to test), but I set them up as I would print them. The .3mf has painted supports (use tree-manual) for the front right, front left, and back right corners. The .3mf is set up to print in PETG using a an engineering plate, however I used the cool plate for the TPU parts (with some of the Bambu liquid glue as a release agent), and it worked well. If the TPU parts stick too much, some IPA can be used as they are separated from the plate, which helps to dissolve the glue to remove them.

If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.

You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog here. You can also follow me here or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:

https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff

Thanks for looking!

The model posted here is for personal, non-commercial use only, and is being shared (for free) with the 3D printing community to help us better use our Bambu printers. The trademarks used in this model belong to Bambu Lab.

Changelog:

8/21/2024: Updated desrciption to note that this will not work with RGB LED strips, since it uses a 2 wire DC jack for the power connection.