Cell Spool Winder

Sergiu_I
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Cell Spool Winder

Sergiu_I
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Print Profile(5)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini
0.15mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.15mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
33.2 h
4 plates
4.7(457)
0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
34.8 h
4 plates
4.0(5)
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 50% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 50% infill
59.5 h
6 plates
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 75% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 75% infill
32 min
1 plate
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Description

Another spool winder…

 

Looks like the life with AMS needs a spool winder on weekly basis for me. I searched on several libraries and I found only two distinct types of winders. First type: complicate solutions, functioning almost OK - but watching some 15 episodes on YouTube to learn the assembly process was not for me.

The second type: winders made just to destroy good spools of material - I have seen some really poor design solutions.

 

Quite surprised to not have a decent simple and compact solution available! This was enough to mobilize me to do my own design. I will jump over the part where I make a video on YouTube with my silly face to show the greatest spool winder ever made, let's go directly to the details:

- One piece mainframe, easy print, two additional feet for stabilization.

- Two main gears. With the coupled 5 step/direction worm-gear, the mechanism produces 33 rotations - one full line in the target spool - for every 5 rotations of the worm-gear. One direction completed, the worm-gear changes the winding direction, another 33 rotations on the target spool and so on.

- Two assembled axis. Central shaft, two threaded flanges. Easy print too.

- A few small parts - retaining clips, one worm-gear reader.

- An optional handle if you do not have a ½" drive lever or a ¼" (hex) nimbus to be coupled to a drilling machine. Optional set of complementary flanges for spools with very large inner diameters.

 

Once the job is done, without spools, with the handle and the feet dismounted and placed inside, the winder has practically the size of a filament box, it can be easily stored in a reduced volume. 

 

Around 750g of material including the optional parts.

 

Printing time around two days, assembly time 5 minutes. There will be no assembly instructions I would provide - I show pictures and a few cross-sections from my digital mock-up - there is sufficient information in these images. Every shaft or gear once in position to be secured with a retaining clip - they might not be in pictures. If you print the handle mind the arrow, to be assembled as in the given picture. Still, there is attached a document provided by the colleague chronos00 with a set of detailed instructions - I am really grateful for the help!   

 

I use mainly ABS and the defined tolerances in the given parts are for ABS. I highly advice ABS or ASA, there are other good options but I did not test anything except ABS.

 

I did some fancy voronisation ("cellular structure" looking like webs) to camouflage the simplicity of the design. And to save some material.

 

Re-spooling: turn the gears until the worm gear reader goes to one extreme position. Fix the filament on the same extreme side on the target spool. Wind the first few loops with slow speed.  Engage!

 

 

Happy winding :)

 

 

A two minutes re-spooling. Very new worm gear and reader. The specific noise is the desiccant looping in the desiccant tower inside the Cell Spool.

 

 

 

 

 

Based on a few repeated requests I have created a variant that might have a few advantages, if interested please check and:

 
https://makerworld.com/en/models/604481#profileId-527156

 

 

 

Feedback chapter: experiences, complains, problems:

 

- The quality of the target spool comes better with constant (lower) speed. What I did in the second video from above is a good example of too fast. The mechanism is designed for one spool per week… 2 minutes winding is preferable to 30 seconds winding for long term reliability.

- Print the drive shaft (in the target spool)  and the worm gear reader with high% infill. They are loaded components and they might fail if the mechanism functions with extreme vibrations or shocks.

- Please make sure the channels in the worm gear and mainframe are clean, no debris - with the worm-gear in one hand and the reader in the other hand, make the reader to follows the channels all around, both directions. The head of the reader should move also freely left-right. I have applied and a thin layer of grease on the worm channels and the channel in the mainframe. This part of the mechanism requires some time to run in. 

- Brittle materials like PLA might not work for the reader - it has to bend both directions on the worm gear ends and, if not sufficiently elastic, it might simply  break. 

 

 

The "cell" spool: 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/565057#profileId-484654

 

 

 

27.09.04 First minor add-on: Clips with flaps Ø12mm + Ø15mm added for improved handling. The clips with flaps can replace the clips for shafts as shown in pictures. 
 

 

 

21.11.04 The handle seems to be difficult to print!? I have included a small test stl part, just in case, minimal printing time and material, if necessary please print the test part with 5°-10°C over the minimum printing temperature as given for your material. After printing and with some light de-blocking moment,  the orange bushing should freely rotate around the blue axis. 
 

Fillers and dampers for feet added as stl files. The fillers can be used to fix the winder on a wooden plate or workbench.  The dampers have to be printed in TPU, otherwise they will not fit - they do what their name suggests.



 

 

spool
spoolwinder
winder
3dprint
filament
filament accesory
respool
respooler
respool filament
respooling

Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)
Cell Spool Winder - Assembly instructions.pdf

Comment & Rating (899)

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@chronos00
Boosted
This is an awesome design and works great. I printed everything in PLA because it's cheaper, but that brought a few problems: - PLA gears will wear down much quicker than ABS, and I'm gessing are much noisier too. - it was substantially difficult to fit the feet to the main body, as PLA will not flex nearly as much as ABS. - for the worm-gear: the section of the thread near the big gear seemed to bee to tight in my print. Had to wear it down with a file to let the worm-gear reader change direction on that side. Oddly, the other end of the worm-gear worked perfectly when changing direction, so it might have been something specific to my print. Keep in mind that the short shaft uses 2 washers: the big washer, and one of the small ones. I would have really liked to at least have some brief instructions, to avoid second guessing. So here is my attempt for anybody else: 1. Clean the supports for the double threaded shaft. 2. Clean the supports for the worm-gear reader (the small device that follows the threaded shaft, and guides the filament). Keep in mind that the small arc should be able to rotate freely in its case 3. Insert short shaft into the hole corresponding to the orange gear shown in the pictures. You need to insert it from the inside of the mainframe, and rotate it until it fits into the hexagonal hole. 4. Place the biggest washer on the outside (flat face towards the mainframe) to lock this shaft. 5. Put some lubricant on the last section of the shaft. Slide the orange gear into this shaft, small gear towards the outside. 6. Put some lubricant on the flat face of one of the smallest washers and place it into the end of this shaft (flat face towards the gear) to lock the gear in place. 7. Grab the worm-gear reader (aka filament guide), and Insert its flat bottom into the rail of the mainframe. You can use some lubricant to lubricate the rail and slide the filament guide back and forth to distribute the lubricant. 8. Lubricate the upper holes of the mainframe. 9. Insert the threaded shaft through the upper hole (you'll notice a bigger and a smaller hole, so there is only one way to insert this shaft). Don't push it all the way through yet. You'll need to slide the worm-gear reader near the small hole to have enough room to place the threaded shaft onto it. Be careful to fit it correctly into the threaded shaft (any orientation will be fine, as long as it fits along the shaft's thread). After this, you can finish pushing the threaded shaft into the the small hole. 10. Lubricate the flat face of the last small washer, and place it at the end of the threaded shaft (flat face towards the main body), to lock the shaft in place. 11. Insert a pair of threaded falanges on each side of your target spool (empty spool) and screw them until you get a tight fit. Optionally, add the big "washers" if the center hole of your target spool is too wide. Do the same with your source spool (the one with the filament you want to transfer) 12. Lubricate the lower holes for the last two shafts. 13. Place the target spool between the lower holes, near the short shaft. Insert small geared shaft through these holes and the threaded falange of the target spool. Keep in mind the shaft needs to be aligned correctly with the threaded falange. 14. Lubricate the flat face of a medium washer and place it at the end of this shaft, to lock it in place. 15. Insert the last shaft through the last hole and all the way through the source spool. Keep in mind that the filament should unwind from the top, into the worm-gear reader. 16. Lubricate the flat face of a medium washer and place it at the end of this shaft, to lock it in place. 17. Insert the square rod into the square hole of the handle. Insert the side marked with the arrow first, and then push the rest of the rod through. 18. Insert the handle's rod into the main gear as far as possible. 19. Push the feet into the mainframe. Both feet are the same, but you need to orient them with the tabs facing the mainframe. You might need to add some lubricant to let the tabs slide into the mainframe's socket. 20. Crank the shaft a couple of turns until the worm-gear reader reaches one of the edges of the threaded shaft. 21. Thread the filament through the worm-gear reader and into the target spool. Crank the shaft, and enjoy the show. @Sergiu_Irimie Feel free to use these instructions as you wish. Thank you very much for your awesome design!
The designer has replied
21
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Thank you very much indeed for your excellent detailed assembly description, I am really happy to have this work done by somebody else :). If anyone would insist in getting textual assembly indications, I would point toward your comment. But I will keep this assembly description here for two reasons: 1. It would intimidate half of the readers; 2. Giving minimal information, I prefer to "select" somehow the users starting this design.
0
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@user_1390049985
Well Explained but for the (layman). Pictures after every sub para explain the words. Great job.
0
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@user_120675366
Boosted
I'm currently printing this spooler. I'm using carbon fiber PETG. I'm using "snug" supports for the base to see if this helps with what other people are having problems with. I will report back with results. Hope this works well, I'm tired of fighting with diff spools and adapters for my AMS. I'm over it and this spooler is way simpler then the rest out there. 🤞
The designer has replied
5
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Looks really very good so far. I am just feeling sorry for that expensive looking material used for supports :) Can you please share a link with that material?
2
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@user_120675366
Boosted
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CC7RH6M3?psc=1&;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&th=1
2
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@user_120675366
Boosted
Replying to @user_120675366 :
I'm pretty sure Tinmorry makes this for bambu. On one of the boxes I got it said "Bambu FDM" on it. I thought that was weird. All of the tinmorry filament print exceptional for me. I love it. The base printed perfect. I tried the gears out in silk pla because it looked cool but I'm now realizing how week it is compared to CF. I'm reprinting in CF right now. And the spool adapters are PLA-CF. They came out perfect and really strong
2
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@user_3233580790
So I have a X1-Carbon and I printed the 3mf. Everything turned out good except the worm gear. I used polylite ABS. Any suggestions on what I can do to get a cleaner worm drive print? I used what came in the 3mf for settings.
The designer has replied
2
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@Sergiu_Irimie
I used also Polymaker PE01002 PolyLite white ABS?! - but the result was perfectly smooth and clean. I remember this material needs to be printed somewhere around 240°C, but if chosen from BL library, it shows 270° printing temperature - probably too much. Please make sure you have also the supports as defined in 3mf and shown in a dedicated picture.
0
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@user_3233580790
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
I see where you mentioned manual supports. I have not done this.. how can this be achieved?
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Replying to @user_3233580790 :
If you open in Bambu Studio the posted 3mf and then slice that plate, you should get these supports! Of course you can remove from the plate what you do not need.
4
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level
@J_labs
This failed twice for me at the same place (over 90%) on a P1S as it is printing the bridge of the large spool holder. The nozzle's cover gets knocked loose and the print loses adhesion to the bed. Attempts to tape the print to the bed and restart result in more collisions with the print head. I've wasted enough filament, I'm done with this one.
The designer has replied
0
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@Sergiu_Irimie
I'm sorry to hear about such problems - could you please put a picture with one of your failed prints? I have a similar problem with one of my other models - the nozzle hits the printed volumes and I am now really thinking that BL has done some wrong development "upgrades" for the slicer. Otherwise this model has been printed and pictures posted at least 50 times for the complete design solution - the models should be OK...
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@J_labs
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
thanks for the swift response and apologies for my delay. Here are pictures of both prints.
(Edited)
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Replying to @J_labs :
Thank you very much! What can I say, it is really a painful collection of images. But I think I have an idea what causes such trouble - and I have opened a topic on the forum: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-lab-best-printers-with-the-worst-slicer/99495/1 I have used also your pictures as argument - I hope you do not mind - they show clearly the beginning of the bridge construction, when the printing head starts to hit the model...
0
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@user_3752710102
Boosted
Thanks for the great tool! One suggestion: the spool holder was almost impossible to take off after winding - I had to tighten it quite a bit to make sure the Bambu uptake spool would rotate reliably with the gears, but when I was done spooling, I couldn't get the spool holders off the Bambu spool. Even trying to use the grooved shaft to turn the holder ended up breaking the shaft. I think the direction the drill was turning plus the weight of the spool made it tighten the holder to a point that I just can't get it off. I ended up using large plumbers pliers to loosen it. Could you design the spool holders with "wings" that the user can grip to tighten and loosen? I can't find exactly a picture of what I mean but I attached some approximations of what I'm thinking of. Or, perhaps more simply, even just make a flat section on opposite sides. I think that would give a place to grip with less material and complexity.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
0
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Thank for feedback! - I had this issue reported by another colleague - and he already did a healthy tool to unscrew the tightened holder flanges. I'll try to find that conversation and his model - it is somewhere in the comments stack. I personally never had such problem, as I said I have applied some grease on any relative kinematic geometry, including the thread of the spool holder flanges - and this greatly helps for removal too.
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
The colleague @machDruck did such a tool - I hope this is close to your description:
(Edited)
1
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@machDruck
Boosted
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
@user_3752710102 I can send you the STL of the tool @Sergiu_Irimie mentioned if you like.
1
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@machDruck
Boosted
Thank you for this great model! Exactly what I was looking for: Not over engineered, no motor, nicely and well designed. It printed without problems. I was using ABS for the gears only. The other parts were printed in PETG. The Filament brand I used is Jayo (Sunlu). I just spooled my fist roll of filament and it worked just fine. I will look into adding some type of handle to the washers of the two spool shafts, so they will come off easier and I do not grease my hands with the silicone lubricant I used every time I change the spools. I am also thinking about making a simple tool to unscrew the phalanges from the spool if they will not come off with my greasy hands ;-)
The designer has replied
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Thank you for the detailed feedback! Some "handles" for the clips is something I had in mind for a while - I have passed a few iterations and now the model in picture was intensively tested and seems OK - I will add it to the posting. To unscrew the phalanges from the spool I use the shafts :)
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@machDruck
Boosted
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
Thank you for your reply. Those "handleclips" look great. I will print and try them when you add the model to your posting.
(Edited)
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Replying to @machDruck :
Done :)
1
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@flowcreate
Print Profile
0.15mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Clean print but need some Post work to work as expected. Turning around is sometimes really sturdy
The designer has replied
2
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Nice lucking - I am happy to see the first split base print! Please use some grease between any moving parts.
1
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@flowcreate
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
Yes i Spray some oil on the parts and now it works perfect 🥰
0
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@wimpel.funkeln_
Boosted
Replying to @flowcreate :
Oil is not grease. Please use grease for several good reasons ;-)
4
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@NorthCountryNY
Print Profile
0.15mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
After realizing bambu studio somehow incorrectly chose 270C as its build temp instead of 200-220, no the model is sticking well to the bed, and building perfectly. TY
The designer has replied
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Looks like your hotbed leveling is way off. The profile is made for a P1S, remember to select your printer.
0
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@NorthCountryNY
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
I did select my A1, and always do bed leaving before printing, that is not even a question. The issue is that although I selected the A1, the temp code 270C for your model, kind of confusing why it would do that.. Had to restart Bambu Studio and reload the model and now that the temp is at 220, and it is printing well.
0
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Replying to @NorthCountryNY :
Thanks for feedback
0
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@wimpel.funkeln_
Boosted
Print Profile
0.15mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Easy print with ASA, nice design, works as expected. Thanks for sharing it. For sure a five-star print. I respool Sunlu PLA Matte white on empty BBL-Spools with corresponding RFID, because it works with the exact same filament settings for me, and I can get it in bulk orders.
The designer has replied
2
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@Sergiu_Irimie
One day I should learn how to use ASA on BL P1S - my attempts with a genuine BL ASA have failed pathetically... lots of warping and curling even with a lot of cooling fan. Any advice? :)
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@wimpel.funkeln_
Boosted
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
Important is to keep up a high temperature during print, so the lesser fan you use, the better it comes out ;-) I only use 10% part cooling, the other fans stay off. since neither your P1S nor my X1CC do have an active chamber heating, it is important to keep the chamber closed and the air inside hot. I do not open the door or lid during print. I also add a 10mm brim on objects with low touching area to the plate compared to the object height, to prevent the object from becoming loose (and lost). and for long lasting prints I also add gluestick to the plate sometimes. Goog luck with testing…
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Replying to @wimpel.funkeln_ :
Thank you - I used to print a lot of ASA (mostly orange prusament) with my oldest stone age 3D printer :) - hotbed going up to 130°C (I used 120°C for ASA), brim, enclosure with 60°C, glue-stick, draft shield, a few layers no fan, then 50%. Applied the same for P1S, but the hotbed goes only to 100°C for P1S - total failure... I should test the 10% fan. I have also a 250W small heater working on 12V - I might bring it to the party :) - thanks again!
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@user_780571698
Boosted
Advice for tray 3: Frame... As oriented, printing is very "jerky" with a short amount of printing spread over a great deal of print bed movement. 21 hours into printing, inertia was greater than the adhesive forces of my hot bed. Started print over with frame oriented perpendicular to original configuration. Now 15 hours into my second attempt. Otherwise, great project!
The designer has replied
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@Sergiu_Irimie
I am sorry, but I do not think it is only inertia. Please make sure you have this configuration of settings: - "Quality / Avoid crossing walls" - to be activated; - “Other / Reduce infill retraction” - to be deactivated. I have experienced too a lot of models pushed out from printing bed due to improper programming of the BL slicer. The two settings from above greatly help to avoid getting the printing head crushing the model and removing it from hotbed.
1
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@Sergiu_Irimie
Critical point in the second print - when the middle bridge between the side wall is constructed the software only consider the right bridge direction and hits anything in the way...
1
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@user_780571698
Boosted
Replying to @Sergiu_Irimie :
Thank you for the quick response. I am currently 10 hrs in on my second print. 753/2052 layers with the other orientation, so I am a little late to make setting changes. (just checked: Avoid crossing walls is activated, Reduce infill retraction is not activated) I will watch for when the cross-support bridge approaches. Do you know if we can slow printing (or another setting from the printer console) that may minimize risk as the bridge layer approaches? Being relatively new to 3D printing, I was a little wary of the intertia competing with plate adhesion after a few layers printed. I clean the plate after every print and haven't had any adhesion failures, so I wasn't necessarily worried. Up until now, my longest print has been 15 hrs. Not sure if you can see in the photo, I also had one of the arches near the bottom on the right side. (nothing major, not a design issue) Didn't seem to greatly impact strength, so I let it ride. Thank you again!
(Edited)
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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.

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