Update July 2, 2024

I spotted a small naming mistake of the top parts, they had the wrong debossing, this has been corrected with version 1.01. It doesn't affect the actual assembly as they are symmetrical but fixed anyway. I also increased the tolerance for the top glass slightly. I have now also marked all heated insert spots with a crossmark so it's easier to see where you should use a heated insert.

Also, the tolerances are improved for the bottom part and the edges on which the glass rests have been remodeled. 

About

This is an actively heated enclosure for Python AMS. It can be used with up to four PolyMaker PolyDryers. There is also an Passively Dried Enclosure available. The printed parts are actually the same, it's just the front and rear panels that are different but I prefer to keep them apart for different reasons.

For most user cases, one or two dryers should be sufficient but it depends on what type of filament you often print as well as the humidity of the area where you like.

Support for more types of heaters may be added later on.

It's a good idea to also use the Python AMS - Silica Gel Boxes to maintain low humidity inside the box when the dryers are inactive.

Support

All my designs and mods on MakerWorld are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering

BOM - Bill of Materials

I suggest printing the enclosure in PETG, ABS, ASA, PA or PC as it can get pretty hot inside the enclosure when the dryers have been running for a while so PLA will likely deform due to the heat.

Around 1 Kg of filament is required at the recommended print settings.

I've printed most of the test builds in Prusament ASA and Prusament PC-CF.

Panels

• 3 mm Acrylic or PC panels cut according to the included DXF drawings.
• 6 x 3 mm round Neodymium Magnets: 8 pcs

M3 Heated Inserts

46 pcs are needed. It was designed for 4.00 mm long inserts (commonly named M3S or M3 Short).

• M3 Heated Inserts (select 4.5 mm OD, 4 mm length)

You could technically skip the heated inserts and use longer M3's, washers and nuts but for a permanent solution, it will also look much cleaner.

Fasteners

The following M3 socket heads are required: M3-8 mm: 46 pcs, M3-16 mm: 12 pcs, M3-25 mm: 8 pcs.

If you don't have any at home it's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and more:

• 1100 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Kit

Magnets

8 pcs of round 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets are required.

• 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets

Tools and others

• Soldering Iron
• 3M 4229P VHB Double Sided tape

Downloading the DXF files

Click the green dropdown list then select "Download STL". The click “Download All” and you will get DXF files as well.

Print Settings

All parts print without supports and I recommend using 3 walls and an infill of around 15%. Print all parts in the direction I have set them.

The handle has the text “Python AMS” hidden in the first layer that you can paint with your AMS if you like, use the Paint Bucket Tool in Bambu Studio:

Print one of each part except for the M14 plugs (see section at the bottom), polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mf, enclosure-cutout-seal-rear-1.00.3mf and enclosure-cutout-seal-front-1.00.3mf.

The gasket lock installs on the inside of the enclosure to lock the PolyDryer in place so for one dryer you need two of these, depends on the number of dryers you use of course:

polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mf

Be aware that the gasket locks may not fully support the weight of the PolyDryer as the “tabs” on the dryers are so short so in addition to the gasket locks I would suggest using double sided tape on the dryer against the panel, I use 3M 4229P VHB myself.

What about the enclosure cutout seals? They're used in the enclosure cutouts where you don't use any dryer, it's to fully seal the enclosure. Let's say you just want to try with two PolyDryers first and place them in the front of the enclosure. You then must seal up the rear cutouts with the cutout seals. So print as many of these (front + rear of each) you need for your setup.

The cutouts in the panels are also compatible with the airlocks that come with the PolyDryer, two of them are included with a single Polydryer.

Assembly Guide

First of all, use a soldering tool to insert all M3 heated inserts in both the bottom, top and edge parts. 

All printed parts are marked with FL = Front Left, FR = Front Right, RL = Rear Left and RR = Rear Right. 

A soldering iron (15-30 W is fine) and M3S (Short) 4.00 mm long M3 heated inserts are needed. Also use something heat resistant to work on, I often use one of my steel beds for one of my larger printers.

Also, a regular kitchen knife (or steel spatula) to press down the insert is good.

All holes where you should use a heated insert is marked with a cross.

Start with the “edges” the top panel rests, at least if you're inexperienced as these are quick to reprint if you mess up.

First place an insert in the hole. Then with a heated soldering iron, press down the insert straight down with only moderate force until it's about half way down, it should just take a couple of seconds.

Quickly switch to the knife / spatula and press it fully down until it sits flat, hold it for five seconds. It's much more important that it is aligned and flat than fully down into the hole.

First heated insert is done.

You may want to clean off any excessive filament material with a sharp knife and clean the threads of the heated insert as well.

Continue with the edges. Press in a round neodymium magnet in each corner of the edges, this will hold the top panel once assembled. Take notice of the magnetic direction so it matches with the top panel.

Do the same for all marked holes in the four bottom panels.

The top panels do not use any inserts.

Don't forget the six heated inserts at the bottom of the bottom parts, these are for attaching the bottom panel.

The male dovetails of the bottom parts are not marked but here you can optionally use a heated insert (8 in total) if you like, else it will self tap.

All done with the heated inserts and magnets. Now it's time for assembly. Use 8 x 25 mm socket heads to screw together the bottom of the bottom panels. Do not fully tighten yet, you might need to adjust a little.

Next, place the bottom panel and screw it with six screws to the bottom panels. If you're having difficulties aligning with the holes it you can carefully drill the holes of the panel with a 4.0 mm drill bit to expand them a little. Do not fully tighten yet.

Next, slide in the left, right, rear and front panels. Take notice of the screw holes and ensure they match up, the panels are close but not fully symmetrical. If the holes don't line up, flip the panel the other way around.

Place the four top parts of the panels.

Screw the handle to the top panel.

Screw the four “edges” to the top panels. This provides an airtight seal and is also used for the top panel to rest on. It can be a little difficult to align everything here but take your time and you should be able to screw everything together.

Screw in the rear M14 plugs as per your configuration. This here is for four external spools routes, one regular AMS PTFE route and one AMS cable.

The AMS cable plug comes in two halves. Place the cable in the middle, route through the AMS connector inside then screw the plug in.

Place your Python AMS inside the enclosure. You don't have to unscrew anything of the enclosure, just carefully bend the sides and it will slide inside.

Fasten Python to the enclosure with three M3-16 mm screws from the outside in.

Seal up the enclosure holes for the PolyDryers you're not using. For example, I'm using two front mounted PolyDryers so I seal up the four rear holes. You can then add additional dryers later if you like.

The enclosure is also compatible with the seals that come with the PolyDryer (two seals are included per PolyDryer), just showing both options here.

Finally, tighten all M3 socket head screws fully.

All done! 

Which M14 Plugs to use?

You need to decide which setup for the rear plugs you will use. There are plently of M14 holes and unless you use the external spool function for all four spool slots like the render below, most of them you should seal with M14 solid plugs (m14-solid-1.00.3mf).

One plug you must use is the M14 plug for the AMS cable, it comes in two parts and you install it over the cable like this before inserting and tightening it. It's a good idea to route it like the render above. 

For the rest of the M14 holes use the PTFE or solid plugs to have the enclosure fully sealed.