P1S LED AMS Riser / Top cooling AMS增高架/LED照明/风扇散热

P1S LED AMS Riser / Top cooling AMS增高架/LED照明/风扇散热

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Print Profile(1)

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P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 25% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 25% infill
Designer
51.2 h
4 plates

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Description

由于P1S自带封箱,导致打印PLA这类耗材时舱体温度过高,挤出机过热而耗材堵塞。
因此我设计了这款顶部散热套件,在不影响密封性的同时通过前后风道及一个5V风扇实现顶部散热功能。
1.套件主体由8各部分拼接组成,部分损坏时更容易替换,未来我也会设计一些组件来适配它来实现更多功能。
2.套件背部可安装一个40x40x28mm的5V风扇,电源线通过套件灯带内侧凹槽连接到套件前侧开关,由一个旋钮开关控制散热风速。
3.开关处另一个旋钮开关是给我设计的另一套套件预留“竹屎+排风+密封 套件https://makerworld.com/zh/models/499198#profileId-413872,用它来控制机箱背部散热风速。
4.套件前侧进风口采用滑动的盖板实现开启或关闭,盖板有两个版本,薄的那个可以配合1mm厚的密封条来增加进风口的密封性。
5.套件内部预留了灯带的位置,上述两个风扇的电源线可以和灯带一起连接到开关,灯带由一个按钮开关控制。
6.开关盒上方可以安装带有探针的温度计,将探针伸入机箱内部,即时显示温度。
7.背部风扇末端可以选择安装斜向上45度的管道,来配合止逆阀的使用(可防止室外冷空气进入,止逆阀通过重力复位,所以必须要有一定角度)。也可以选择不安装止逆阀,使用短的管道直接连接排气管。
8.为了保证套件密封性,建议上下用密封条贴好,也不会有异响。
9.如果你同时使用我设计的“竹屎+排风+密封 套件”,可以打印Main Duct将两个套件的排风整合到一起通过“3D打印机排气管https://makerworld.com/zh/models/405521排出室外。
注意!除了标准尺寸的套件主体,也专门为ABS这种热缩率高的材料设计了模型,如果你使用ABS材料打印标准尺寸模型出现尺寸偏小的情况,请使用文件中有“ABS+3MM”字样的模型进行打印。


材料清单:(材料是手机版pdd买的,所以建议用手机打开查看)
1.5v旋钮开关:2个(如图)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods1.html?ps=UrvS4CGHIy
2.5v按钮开关(12mm):1个(如图)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods.html?ps=vNgma2Z8w0
3.40x40x28mm的5V风扇:1个(如使用“竹屎+排风+密封 套件”,则需要2个风扇)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods1.html?ps=LZxCL9IotO
4.5v灯带:2mhttps://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods2.html?ps=p0lK9ZFW8x
5.带探针的温度计:1个(如图)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods1.html?ps=Fz77JGTpJ2
6.M3x10mm螺丝+螺母:4套
7.M3x40mm螺丝:3颗
8.直径2mm,长40mm不锈钢棒:1根(不需要止逆阀的话可以不准备)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods2.html?ps=MC7U8n93Zq
9.宽10mm,厚1mm密封条:3-5mhttps://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods1.html?ps=dANFANwbar
10.JST2P端子线:2对(1对用于“竹屎+排风+密封 套件”的风扇电源,另1对用于总电源线)https://mobile.yangkeduo.com/goods1.html?ps=hpGeGHTnM4
11.USB插头:1个(总电源线连接USB插头,接入机箱内部USB插口取电)

 

Due to the P1S's built-in enclosure, printing materials like PLA may cause the chamber temperature to rise excessively, leading to extruder overheating and filament clogging. Therefore, I designed this top cooling kit, which maintains sealing while providing top cooling through front and rear air ducts and a 5V fan.

1. The main body of the kit is assembled from 8 parts, making it easier to replace individual damaged sections. I will also design additional components to add more functionality in the future.
2. A 40x40x28mm 5V fan can be installed at the rear of the kit. The power cable runs through a groove on the inside of the kit's LED strip to the front switch, which controls the cooling fan speed via a knob switch.
3. Another knob switch on the switch panel is reserved for another kit I designed “P1S Poop Chute / Exhaust / Sealing Kithttps://makerworld.com/zh/models/499198#profileId-413872to control the rear chassis cooling fan speed.
4. The front air intake of the kit uses a sliding cover to open and close. There are two versions of the cover; the thinner one can be paired with a 1mm thick sealing strip to enhance the intake's sealing.
5. The kit has reserved space for an LED strip, and the power cables for the two fans can be connected to the switch along with the LED strip, which is controlled by a button switch.
6. A thermometer with a probe can be installed above the switch box, with the probe extending into the chassis to display the temperature in real-time.
7. A 45-degree upward duct can be optionally installed at the end of the rear fan to use with a check valve (prevents cold air from entering, the check valve resets by gravity, so an angle is necessary). Alternatively, you can opt not to install the check valve and use a short duct to connect directly to the exhaust pipe.
8. To ensure the kit's sealing, it is recommended to apply sealing strips at the top and bottom, which also prevents noise.
9. If you are also using my designed “P1S Poop Chute / Exhaust / Sealing Kit”, you can print the Main Duct to integrate the exhaust of both kits and vent it outside together, by “3D printer exhaust ducthttps://makerworld.com/zh/models/405521.

Note: In addition to the standard size kit body, I have designed a model specifically for high-shrinkage materials like ABS. If you experience undersized prints with the standard model using ABS, please use the model labeled "ABS+3MM."

Materials List:
1. 5V knob switch: 2 pcs (as shown)
2. 5V button switch(12mm): 1 pc (as shown)
3. 40x40x28mm 5V fan: 1 pc (2 pcs needed if using “P1S Poop Chute / Exhaust / Sealing Kit”)
4. 5V LED strip: 2m
5. Thermometer with probe: 1 pc (as shown)
6. M3x10mm screws + nuts: 4 sets
7. M3x40mm screws: 3 pcs
8. Stainless steel rod with a diameter of 2mm and length of 40mm: 1 pc (not needed if the check valve is not used)
9. Sealing strip with a width of 10mm and thickness of 1mm: 3-5m
10. JST 2P terminal wire: 2 pairs (1 pair for “P1S Poop Chute / Exhaust / Sealing Kit” fan power, the other for the main power line)
11. USB plug: 1 pc (main power line connects to the USB plug, drawing power from the internal USB port of the chassis)

Comment & Rating (9)

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大佬您好!我打了第一 第二 第三盘组装起来玻离落不下去,差了几mm,我的机器是p1S,我想问问您有安装视频吗,我是不是装错了?
The designer has replied
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您好,玻璃落不下去是材料热收缩导致,第四盘有标注ABS+3mm的模型,我根据我的材料(ABS)增加了3mm,你也可以测量一下玻璃盖板差多少,如果是3毫米左右的话,就直接打印ABS+3mm的部分。(如图)
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Replying to @husseinlee10 :
我使用的PEGT,理论上热收缩不会有这么大啊!稍晚我给您上图看看
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Replying to @husseinlee10 :
晚上我用另个号给你刷个助力券‘后面麻烦您还要指导下安装
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The designer has replied
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看了一下结构,尺寸上如果他的配件设计没有太大偏差的话,应该是不冲突。但有一点需要注意,它的riser前端是全包的,我不是,所以虽然可以组合到一起,但前侧会有一个房檐。
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我也在考滤这个方案,但好象骑不上去。
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