AMS Riser R2 Drawer, Plate, and light
AMS Riser R2 Drawer, Plate, and light
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Description
The new version has a wider channel for the LED strip. And The strip goes all the way around.
Video:
files:
Below are some notes about the choices to make. Some issues you might not notice by looking at the pictures.
To view a model from the camera you need the shadows. Where the light comes from needs to be different for different models to get the best view. It does not help to just blast with more light. I configured a WLED program to have the lights rotate around the chamber. Not actually rotating light, only electronically using an LED strip with a chasing set of lights. Watch the video. The model shown does not require the change in shadows to best see the model. But you can see how it shows different surfaces better.
This concept can be implemented on other rim lights for other printers.
Arduino Nanos are cheap. I am working on sensing the status of the printer “Home Assistant” and using WLED to show. My model has an added slot for an LED strip once status is in place. This slot is intended for a progress bar. Some other things could easily be programed to change the color if finished or if there is an error. But that depends on things not ready. The reason that is useful is if you get a Nano with Wi-Fi there are lots of possibilities. This is just a simple configuration change to get the status working.
The programing is simple with WLED. That is all that is needed for programing the chasing light. Wire the led strip to the Arduino, configure the LED segments, add power. And Let there be light (and shadow).
This was inspired by a video done by Len Dizzle. In his video he shows a remote progress bar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SImwERgIi7w&t=1218s
I did my own version of a remote progress bar. He does not go in depth about how to install and configure the programs. WLED is very easy to install and configure. For the Bambu printers there is a “device” plugin that communicates with “home assistant” to give access to the sensors and status. I have yet to get it all working but understand the system well enough to know it is just connecting. I don’t expect to learn it well enough to publish. There are lots of Youtube about installing and configuring these two programs. You might have this working before I do.
What is needed:
There are many similar parts that will work. I included the link to the specific parts that I tried. No kickback if you use the link.
Printed parts to mount LEDs. See video for assy. Your parts might need a little “encouragement” to go together there is no clearance on the joints that provides the best fit. On my print, I lightly sanded the joint surface to knock off the little bumps. Then used my twacker (https://makerworld.com/en/models/162644#profileId-178542) to hammer it together. There are lots of holes in the parts that use a short snip of raw 1.75 filament to lock the joints if needed. My print didn’t need any. The assy order is important. Assemble as shown in the video: two rear parts, two mid parts, then the mid and rear pairs. Don’t put the front parts on until last, the joint is weak. It is fine when in place but when snaping the sides on, can break things.
The side covers are hard to get in. I found it easiest to put the top in, angle the large tab in, then pry the small tab in. Then pry the top into place. Sorry I didn’t get a video of it.
To give the top glass a nice “home” you probably want some stick on weather stripping.
Nano
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081CSJV2V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Alternate (old board I tried) Works to rotate the LEDs, but does not have Wi-Fi for future status.
Power Supply
Depending on the LED strips you choose and how many LEDs are on at once, and how bright they are. You might be able to use the same power supply that drives the controller. You might power your controller, and LEDs with the USB and standard wall wart. Or you might choose a dedicated power supply based on your LED strip, and controller. You can set a limit in WLED to limit the current used.
LED strip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PBHDXSM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Some strips can only turn on all LEDs. The strip needs to be individually addressable. Some can only show 1 color of light. The “all on/all off” is not as future proof. Can be used, but does not need the electronics to create the chasing light. It is not an option.
If you choose to put in a chasing light thing on a different riser, you might choose to add a separate status bar in the future. Using a different pin of the control board.
The Length of the strip that goes around the perimeter is: 1341mm (4 ft 5in)
The length of the strip that is planned for the progress strip is: 320mm (1ft 1in)
In wiring the LED strip, something to pay attention to is the direction of the strip. The power does not matter direction, but the signal matters. The signal needs to be pointing away from the wire.
The strips come in different LED density, Normally specified in number of LEDs per meter: 30, 60, or 144. This is programed in WLED. The width of the strip is an issue the 30 and 60 are 10mm wide. The 144 is 12 mm wide. The slot is 11mm wide. You might be able to cram 12mm in. I have not tried it. I Chose 60 LEDs per meter.
Electronic components:
Wire: Stranded wire is more flexible, solid wire is easier for breadboarding. I suggest stranded wire, then soldering the ends for breadboarding. 22 gage is a good size.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2GLKMP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Resistor: 330 ohm, one for each LED signal run, tolerance is insignificant
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD1XVL6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Capacitor: 1000 uf, for power in, voltage above 5V.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KC99W2K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Connectors: depend on the board you use. You will want to lengthen the wires at the end of the strip. I ended up using connectors I had on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZYGRYSQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F5436X6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Cookie: A cookie is a generic PCB. Perfect for simple projects like this. Some hole are connected together to make soldering simple circuits.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZYT915N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I suggest breadboarding before you solder things together. Breadboarding is great for testing. Then use something that is more reliable like soldering. (breadboarding is a temporary system that is easy to change. Great for testing.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KCZZ4K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
My intention is after the bugs are work out of collecting information from the printer. I will add the extra status indicator to the printer top. I wired min in ready to be configured. Then designed something that can sit in the office showing the progress bar, and status indicator. I have my printer not near my desk. It would be nice to have an easy way to check the status easily. Too many times the printer pauses and I missed it. There are lots of ways to see the camera. Bambu Studio, or Bambu Handy. But those are on devices that might be busy with something else. A different future change is adding a button on the front to turn all the lights on. Maybe add a dial to adjust the brightness. I am thinking this will just replace the front small parts near the printer power buttons. I would not glue those parts on.
You don’t have to use the LED riser that goes with this. There are lots available. For lots of different printers.
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