The Ear-reddening Game

This is a 1:12 dollhouse-scale replica of the Ear-reddening Game - a historically famous game of Go between Honinbo Shusaku (black) and Inoue Genan Inseki (white). The model shows a snapshot of the game just after the “ear-reddening move” (the black, center-most stone) was made.

The model was inspired by the Maker World 0.2 mm nozzle contest and made as a gift for my friend and colleague who has been a long-time Go enthusiast and player, and to myself who has always been fascinated by miniaturized things. The entire thing is centered around the thinnest possible grid-lines I could produce for a Go board using the smallest available nozzle (bar using stretched bridging lines).

It features:

• Accurate proportions in everything from rectangular measurements of the grid, the thickness of the “wood” to the size of the stones and legs of the table
• Embossed wood grains in the preferred style and cut that can be seen on Japanese Go boards produced by master craftsmen
• Accurately modeled legs, based on the Gardenia flower as is traditional for Japanese floor Go board
• Minimal filament waste as the differently colored parts are contained to the top layers of the model
• No supports necessary

The model was made in Fusion 360 with some help from Inkscape to produce the embossment of the wood grains.

Printing

Filament
For my print I used Silk Gold PLA paired with Matte Black PLA and Glossy White PLA, which would be the most realistic colors for this scale in my opinion. I would have used Wood PLA if it weren't for the clogging potential while using the 0.2 nozzle, but the Silk Gold PLA reads pretty well as wood with older, yellowed lacquer, as well as putting the spotlight on the grains.

Layers
I used as few top layers as possible, making sure that the board grid lines only appear on the top layer, which cuts filament changes and waste to a minimum.

This model benefits greatly from using adaptive layer height. For the board, there is both speed and quality to be gained by keeping smaller layer heights for the the stones on the top layers to give them a more domed shape, and keeping a constant layer height for the board itself to give it a smooth surface. As for the legs, they should be printed upside down with automatic adaptive layer height. Thinner layer heights really help the overhangs print very nicely without the need for supports.

Speed
This model really benefits from going slow on both outer walls and top layers, as well as having a calibrated flow.

Infill
I'd recommend using an infill that does not cross the same path twice, as small models have a greater tendency to get knocked over owing to their small footprint and adhesion. This is especially true for Silk filaments, which tend to swell after extrusion. For mine, I chose concentric infill.

Assembly

The model comes in two parts: the board and the legs. For ease of printing, I kept the four legs attached to a frame, which pairs with a frame-shaped slot on the underside of the board. The tolerances are quite tight, and is meant to be press-fitted together without the need for glue. There might be some bulging at the layer seams that may need some filing before giving way, but in my experience, a bit of force was all it took.

Anyway, I hope you like it! :)