A 9 ½" diameter MoPar service center clock with all sorts of goodness built in. Built-in reflector (no aluminum foil/tape needed) and diffuser (holds the faceplate pieces together/strength), wire strain relief, dressed LED light wire exit, custom hands to match the original, and hopefully an easy print.

There’s some places in the clock face where the 0.4mm nozzle couldn’t reach but you only see them when up close. Print the faceplate with a 0.2mm nozzle and you should have less of that if you don’t mind the print time. Also, the one I printed is all Bambu PLA (the blue is matte and the others are basic) so it won’t tolerate a hot garage too well.

The 1953, 15" original this is based on sold at auction for $3200 (https://bid.richmondauctions.com/lots/view/4-8LESIG/15-we-use-mopar-parts-accessories-pam-clock-tac-9) but you can print your own for around $40 plus filament. It uses a 9 ¼" clock glass, a clock movement (which conveniently comes with a red sweep second hand), and an LED strip for the clock lighting. The parts I used and this print is based on are:

9.25" (235mm) Convex Clock Glass #73-603 $11.23 each H&W Perrin Co., perrinwatchparts.com (other 9.25" clock glasses may work if they dome up about 20mm in the center)

Youngtown/Tikround 12888 Movement for Clock Repair 23mm, 29/32", Shaft length 15mm, 19/32" thread length, $9.38 each, Amazon.com (need this length to fit properly)

Wobane LED Cabinet Light CS6 lights w/remote control (6*20") $17.84 each, Amazon.com (just what I used - whatever works for you is fine)

3 each 4mm thread by 5mm long headless Allen socket setscrews (or other 4mm thread screw) to attach the housing to the clock cassette (Amazon or other hardware outlet)

The prints are pretty straightforward with a couple of things to note. Printing the faceplate is loaded with opportunities for blemishes if you have stringing issues. I use a bright flashlight at low angle to spot the strings and then edge cutters, tweezers, and my fingers to rub, grab, and remove the strings. I do it whenever the head is parked for a filament change and it makes a huge difference. Don't try this during actual printing - it's dangerous for fingers and the printer. Or use Pause. The issue there is after a pause, the print head doesn't revisit the prime tower before printing again so you can also cause blemishes. I get better bed adhesion by printing the faceplate at 57C bed temperature. Also, the build plate with the ring, facets, and hat doesn't like the parts inside the ring and gives a WARNING. It's ok since they all get printed together.

I also run the faceplate print at “silent” speed to give it the best chance for a really good clean print. Being meticulous here with cleaning stringing and going slow pays off in a print you can be really proud of. And it does take a while but the faceplate is the main event. You want it looking as clean as you can. And even with going full retentive on the faceplate print, I still got some tiny blemishes but you have to look for them to see them. It's just the nature of the beast I think. I didn't change the speeds for the individual parts that make up the faceplate in case others would rather print full speed. I just set to silent in the printer menu when it starts printing. Seems to help but YMMV.

This clock is really designed for wall mounting but I included a slotted back plug for anyone who wants to run the LED wire out the back. Normally you'd just use the blank back plug and slotted edge plug and glue them into position during assembly. That's why the extra plugs. Most won't use the slotted flat plug for the back or the blank curved plug for the edge. They are disabled in the .3mf file so if you want to use them you'll need to enable them. For now they appear but are transparent to tell you they won't print. It’s set up to print the plugs needed for wall mounting with the wire coming out the bottom of the outer housing.

The white facets and hat pieces are to lighten up the inside of the clock to help even up the faceplate lighting. It helps but those two pieces can be optional. The faceplate gets tightened against the center post and holds those two pieces captive but they aren’t strictly necessary. You’ll just have a darker center region to the clock face when the lights are on.

When you build the clock mechanism cassette (back, clock mechanism, facets, hat, faceplate, and retaining knurled ring and washer, don't use the thick rubber gasket supplied with the clock mechanism. It is to keep the mechanism from rotating any but the clock back holds it mostly captive (it can still rotate a degree or two). Instead, just stick a couple of single layer pieces of electrical tape on either side of the clock mechanism threaded shaft. Much thinner and does the same thing while also keeping the metal hanger positioned properly. You can go commando too if you don't have electrical tape handy but the resistance to rotation helps during battery changes. A couple of dabs of silicone rubber would also do the trick - just let it set up good before you put the battery in.

The outer housing is a little tricky but not bad. It's almost as big X-Y as the X1-Carbon can print. It also unfortunately needs support for the retaining lip that holds the clock glass but you want a good smooth surface to be in contact with the glass. Support makes for a nice smooth(ish) finish. I used textured PEI with a temperature of 57C for that print. Keep an eye on temps during this print as the heated bed heats up the X1C box pretty good. It also uses ironing on the top layers since those are the most visible in the final clock. No need to remove the two test strips the printer prints at the beginning - the ring is positioned to miss them. Some support overlays the front one but that doesn’t matter.

For assembly, get the LEDs into the back and wired with the pigtail sticking out the edge, set the zip tie for strain relief, and set and glue the hole plugs into place. The full LED strip is 16W but that's divided into 6 strips. We use about 1 and a half strips out of the package so the heat burden in the clock is only about 4W so will barely even get warm. It only needs one circumference of an LED strip too. One strip is plenty bright and actually, about half-bright seems to look best to my eyes.

Set the clock mechanism into position (remember the electrical tape), the facet and hat pieces, and then put the faceplate on and secure with the hex nut and washer supplied with the clock mechanism. Gently push the hands into position (at 12:00:00 for proper relationships when running). That finishes the clock cassette.

Clean the clock glass and slip it into position in the outer housing. Add the spacer ring being sure to put the beveled end against the glass and make sure both are fully seated in the outer housing. The flat side of the spacer ring rests flat against the clock faceplate.

Slipping the clock cassette into the outer housing isn't hard but do it over something soft in case you drop it while assembling. I hold the clock cassette by the serrated hanging hole and hold the outer housing with glass and ring where gravity holds the glass and ring in the housing and carefully slip the cassette into the outer housing and seat it all the way in. While you're doing that, guide the LED wire pigtail into the slot for it in the outer housing and when all is happy, gently tighten the three setscrews to hold the cassette in position. You want it secure but not crushing the sides of the clock housing. Also, don't push hard to set the clock cassette while tightening the setscrews. You just want it held together but not so tight the glass gets stressed.

Enjoy!