Bambu Lab P1 X1 Dual Aux Fan / Bentobox 7/28 Updated

Bambu Lab P1 X1 Dual Aux Fan / Bentobox 7/28 Updated

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Print Profile(3)

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P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

PLA X1
PLA X1
Designer
8.3 h
3 plates
5.0(8)

PLA P1
PLA P1
Designer
8.4 h
3 plates
4.9(7)

ABS/ASA profile
ABS/ASA profile
7.8 h
3 plates
4.6(8)

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Released

Description

Bambu Lab P1 / X1 Series Modular Bentobox Aux Fan (4/10/2023)

Designed a modular second aux fan / bentobox for Bambu Lab printers. Assuming a lot of people will upgrade their P1P to the P1S, they will most likely have 2 aux fans now and this could be a good use for the 2nd one!

This is separate from my other model ( https://makerworld.com/en/models/23644 ) as this is meant for users that plan on using the printer in a both enclosed or open environment.

Use the dual aux when printing PLA or filaments that need cooling in a non-enclosed setting. Switch over to the bentobox when printing enclosed with filaments that can release unpleasant or harmful odors. The bentobox will recirculate the air, passing it through the filters and ideally removing any odors.

 

Contents

  • Updates
  • Files
  • Additional Parts
  • Printing Information
  • Assembly
  • Wiring Options

The X1 and P1 Version are different! This is to account for the Lidar clearance.

 

This will only fit on the right side of the printer! You cannot mirror to work on the left, where the original fan goes, as the frame rails are are different heights ( among other things).

Future Update (8/15/2023)

  • Working on an update that will mount the fan to the side panel. Now that P1 users have that option, it will be a faster print, save filament and save space if the fan base is no longer need.
    • See “Test” folder, currently waiting on the new panels to verify fitment - 8/25/2023

Update 7/28/23

  1. Finished the design for the upgraded fan ducts that provide airflow to the back, middle, and front of the build plate
    1. https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661

Update 7/25/23

Added multiple wiring instructions.

  1. Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Bambu Studios
  2. Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Gcode.
  3. Keeping the fan_1 port open for the chamber temp fan, wiring 2nd aux to the 1st aux fan. Control via normal way.

Files

Main Files

  1. Back Plate 3A
  2. Dual Fan Stand 4A
  3. Fan Case 6A
  4. P1 Modular Fan Top 7A
  5. X1 Modular Fan Top 8A

Optional Bentobox Files

  1. HEPA Box 1A
  2. HEPA Cover 2A
  3. Carbon Box 5A

Print File

  1. P1 Print File
  2. X1 Print File

Additional Parts

Base Components

  1. Aux fan
    1. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p
  2. Qty 2 : M3*6
  3. Qty 24: 6mm*3mm round Neodymium Magnets
    1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQP1KZ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Optional Components for Bentobox

  1. Qty 1 : 80mm*40mm*15mm HEPA Filter
    1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782T7L6P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  2. Acid-Free Carbon Pellets - Minimum 4mm Diameter
    1. https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro#sourcing-the-proper-acid-free-carbon

Print Orientation

 

Print Settings

DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc.

I used Polylite Pro PLA+

Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament

Quality

  • Please see build plate file.

Support

  • Please see build plate file.

Other

  • Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first.

* To remove the support from the fan top , I just used pliers and pulled the support out which was pretty easy. Sometimes some of the support stuck but it was easy to clean up with a small knife. The supports on the 2 larger tabs on the fan casing should looked at after the supports are removed, just make sure it's clean on the bottom side since these tabs are what hold it tight against the fan stand.

 

Assembly

  • Remove the fan from casing, remove the sticker over the wiring and redirect the wiring as shown below. Don't put the fan in the printed case yet.
  • Glue in the 24 magnets
    • 3 on the stand
    • 6 on the carbon box
    • 8 on the HEPA box
    • 4 on the HEPA cover
    • 1 on the back plate

 

  • Place the fan into the new casing, make sure the fan is centered by using the alignment poles
  • Attach the back plate using re-using the 3 screws that originally held the fan into the casing. Tighten the screws 90% of the way making sure the backplate can still move a little.
  • Slide the upper assembly onto the fan stand, same way as the OEM aux fan and use the 2 longer screws that come with the aux fan to tighten the case against the stand. Then make sure the back plate is squared up and tighten the 3 screws the remainder of the way.

MOVE THE BUILD PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR THE NEXT STEPS

  • The stand connects to the floor via lining up the L shape cutout with the L shape extrusion on the floor. There is also a caution sticker and under that sticker is a hole that we will use to screw the stand to the floor. I re-used 1 of the 2 shorter screws that came with the aux fan.
  • Assemble the carbon box, HEPA box, HEPA cover.

Bentobox

  • To use the bentobox, slide the assembly onto the fan casing. The top of the HEPA filter cover needs to overcome the protrusion on the frame so it takes a little bit of force to push into place. Then use 2 M3x6 to hold in place.
    • Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate.

Dual Aux

  • Slide the fan top onto the fan casing and use 2 M3*6 screws to hold into place.
    • Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate.

 

Wiring Options ( Option 3 is the best and requires no modifications to the existing aux fan wires)

Option 1- Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Bambu Studios to control the fan.

  • Follow the instructions to remove the back plate to plug in the aux fan. The fan plugs into Fan 1 while the original aux fan is plugged into Fan2
  • Cable manage the wiring

Bambu Studio

So I know you can change the Gcode to make it work with the fan which is “M106 P3 S0 ; turn off chamber fan” (option 2 below) but you can also change the config to make it show up in Bambu Studio.

  • For me on PC it's under C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\resources . Open the Config file with an application like Notepad++ https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/
  • Under "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false," change it to true ""FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : true," . Notepadd++ will ask to change this under administrator, click yes and save the file.

{ "printers": [ { "display_name": "Bambu Lab P1P", "func": { "FUNC_CHAMBER_TEMP": true, "FUNC_FIRSTLAYER_INSPECT": false, "FUNC_AI_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_BUILDPLATE_MARKER_DETECT": false, "FUNC_FLOW_CALIBRATION": false, "FUNC_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_MEDIA_FILE": false, "FUNC_REMOTE_TUNNEL": false, "FUNC_LOCAL_TUNNEL": true, "FUNC_VIRTUAL_CAMERA" : false, "FUNC_PRINT_WITHOUT_SD": false, "FUNC_ALTER_RESOLUTION": false, "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false, "FUNC_EXTRUSION_CALI": true, "FUNC_PRINT_ALL" : false

  • Re-open Studio and on the device screen you'll now see the chamber fan which is what we'll use to control the 2nd aux fan.

 

  • For the bentobox air flow, you only need to set a fan speed until you feel a breeze coming out of the top filter.

Option 2 - Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Gcode to control the fan.

  • Same wiring as above but instead of changing the config file for Studios we change the gcode. This was suggested from @bjws_297864:
    • Remove the filament start code that modifies the chamber fan and added this to the end of the printer start gcode:

      ;========turn on chamber fan to filter VOCs =============
      {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS" || filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA" }
      M106 P3 S50 ; set chamber fan to 20%
      {endif}

Option 3 - Wire the 2nd aux fan to the original aux fan. This way both fans are controlled as one without needing to change any code. This is how I have mine set up.

What's required:

  1. JST MX 1.25 Connectors
    1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Minimal soldering skill

Wiring Diagram

Bambu wiring = Dark grey (GND) , Black (+), light grey ( tach) , white (pwm)

Bambu JST MX 1.25
+BlackRed
-Dark GreyBlack
TachLight GreyYellow
PWMWhiteWhite

As pointed out by @MozzieT_1023044 if you're wiring the 2nd fan into the existing one, it's probably best to only connect the PWM wire and not the Tach wire. The speed readout may get a bit confused as to the actual fan speed if the two fans pulses don't align for whatever reason. I still have my 2nd tach wire connected without any issues but I do plan on disconnecting it next time I take my panel off. -9/8/2023

  • Behind the power panel, there are two screws under -V and +V that aren't being used. I just wrapped the wire around these screws and tightened down. You should use a terminal ring but I didn't.

And finally how it all looks wired up:

That's all!

 

If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to Buy Me a Coffee or PayPal would be greatly appreciated!

 

As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.

Comment & Rating (29)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print Profile
PLA P1
editing rating from 5 to 4 because of required cutting (about 4mm) that needs to be done to the bottom L bracket on the printer for the mount to fit
(Edited)
0
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great project 👍🏻
0
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Hi. So help me understand option 3. if you wire it up to the aux fan, doesnt that kind of mess up printing? I mean for PLA you want to have cooling for the parts, but theres no point in filtering the air. and when printing ABS/ASA/PA/etc, you dont want the aux fan running because you dont need to cool down the part, but you do need to have the filtration running. Am I misunderstanding something?
1
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Nope you are understanding things perfectly. This is why its wierd to see people who add ducts to the chamber fan, etc. Or people that bother replacing the cheapo carbon filter from bamboo. The only time the carbon filter would have been useful was when printing abs or similar, and during that time the filter is off. the only thing that would make it useful is some gcode that waited until after your part was finished printing AND cooling, and then turned on the fan to possibly send what is left of the VOC's in the chamber through bambus little carbon filter. But even then, your only getting one small pass through the carbon filter, when you could have had a bento box sucking up the VOC's the whole time inside the chamber. The only real option is a secondary enclosure over your bambu that has ventilation itself, that way you can leave bambu printer chamber fan off and capture VOC's with the secondary enclosure and vent them to outside the house, etc.
0
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How will the "test" back plate attach to the side panel on the P1S? The panel is not magnetic.
The designer has replied
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The idea is to use the 4 sticky pads that come with the aux fan or any double sided sticky tape. Although I havnt dialed in the distance needed from the panel to the back plate to make sure the fan stays vertical
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Print Profile
ABS/ASA profile
I like this thing very much, I hope there will be more cute works.
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Print Profile
PLA P1
Perfect to have a second auxiliary fan.
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Print Profile
ABS/ASA profile
Perfect Print!
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Print Profile
PLA X1
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Hey, what was wrong with the print?
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PLA P1
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Print Profile
PLA X1
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