Bambu Lab P1P - "Vision" Enclosure

Bambu Lab P1P - "Vision" Enclosure

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Print Profile(3)

All
P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
19.7 h
7 plates
4.7(34)

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
29 min
1 plate
5.0(2)

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 20% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 20% infill
32.8 h
8 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Released

Description

Buy the Full Vision kit

 

I've teamed up with VOXELPLA to make a kit that includes acrylic panels, printed parts, screws, and tool. The magnets and threaded inserts are pre-installed, so you won't need anything outside of the kit. Shipping is free in the USA and ships out the same day.

Vision has a strict non-commercial license, it can only be sold with licensing through Hume Beam Engineering Solutions.

 

Support

 

All my designs and mods are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

Reviews on Youtube

 

ModBot (skip to minute 5.00)

About

Vision is a high visibility enclosure for the Bambu Lab P1P that prints completely without supports, featuring magnetic sides (3 mm PC or Acrylic panels, optionally 4 mm with optional 4.5 or 6 mm lid) that quickly can be removed when printing PLA for example. It also allows for ease of maintenance.

The printed parts are installed with standard / full length M3 heated inserts (M3x5,7 mm), cap head hex screws and some flat head screws are required for the handles. Check out the Bill of Materials further down.

The enclosure is compatible with the original Bambu Lab X1C glass top cover, although a drawing (DXF) for cutting one in PC is available as well. If you plan on resting the AMS on top, I recommend using the X1C glass cover.

NOTE: Some people seem confused about this but the top glass rests on top of the corner pieces as well as the rear and middle support pieces and on the front P1P panel. The reason for this is to enable the use of the original X1C hardened glass cover which is normally too large/deep for the P1P and would otherwise not fit. It's not a bug, it's intentional. :)

It's also important to use flat head screws for the handles and the rear of the hinges, more on this in the guide at the bottom.

Buy the Full Vision kit

 

I've teamed up with VOXELPLA to make a kit that includes acrylic panels, printed parts, screws, and tool. The magnets and threaded inserts are pre-installed, so you won't need anything outside of the kit. Shipping is free in the USA and ships out the same day.

* A portion of each sale is donated to help development of this and my other designs.

 

Buy the panels

 

If you're looking for the panels, you can buy them from NetLaser, LaserFoundry or Bluerolls (authorized resellers *). These are pre cut and fit the design perfectly:

* A portion of each sale is donated to help development of this and my other designs.

 

Buy the printed parts

 

The printed parts are now available from MatterHackers (authorized reseller *) at a very affordable price, free US shipping included:

* A portion of each sale is donated to help development of this and my other designs

 

Selected Makes

 

Here are a few Makes posted so far. Thanks for sharing!

Make by phobus

Make by Chasers

 

Renders

Print Settings

 

I recommend using a minimum of 3 walls, top and bottom and infill of 20% or higher. Also, a wide enough brim is highly recommended to ensure bed adhesion, most parts are thin and tall. The tall files are best printed one at a time. For best bed adhesion I recommend Vision Miner Nano Polymer.

 

Notice: If you get a warning that the 3MF files are not coming from Bambu Lab just ignore this, they were exported from my design software.

 

BOM - Bill of Materials

 

I buy most of my 3D printer parts from quality stores on AliExpress. Shipping takes a while from China but quality is excellent and the prices are good. I might add more stores to the BOM later but it's a lot of work keeping it updated and current so I will try to keep it short.

Most of the parts here you can find on Amazon and eBay too.

 

If the links do not work disable your adblocker or use a VPN.

 

Filament

 

All the printed parts are less than 700 grams and everything prints without supports. I suggest you use PETG, ABS or ASA if possible. I'm printing my enclosure in Prusament Galaxy Black ASA and Prusament Orange ASA using another printer.

 

Bolts and Screws

 

You need both hex bolts / socket head and flat head M3 screws. For the handles the flat heads must be used for the lid to sit nicely on top.

 

Left side:

  • 2 x 12 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the supports under the glass.
  • 5 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the front left corner.
  • 1 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the rear left corner.
  • 2 x 8 mm M3 flat head - for the handle.

Right side:

  • 2 x 12 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the supports under the glass.
  • 5 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the front right corner.
  • 1 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the rear right corner.
  • 2 x 8 mm M3 flat head - for the handle.

Rear:

  • 8 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the rear top panel and PTFE guide.

Front:

  • 4 x 8 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the hinges that attach to the corner panels.
  • 2 x 16 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head - for the actual hinges.
  • 4 x 6 mm M3 flat head - for screwing the front glass to the hinges.
  • 2 x 8 mm M3 flat head - for the handle.

Top:

  • 2 x 8 mm M3 flat head - for the handle.

To summarize, you need these screws:

  • 4 x 12 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head
  • 20 x 6 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head
  • 4 x 8 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head
  • 2 x 16 mm M3 hex bolts / socket head
  • 12 x 8 mm M3 flat head

For the socket heads, it's best to grab the kit below:

The flat head screws for the handles and hinges can be bought from this store:

Heated Inserts

 

You will need quite a few M3 heated inserts, standard size (M3x5,7 mm). These usually come in a pack of 50 or 100 pcs.

 

I use these personally:

A soldering iron is needed to insert the heated inserts into the printed part.

 

Magnets

 

10 pcs of 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets are required. I bought mine locally but here are some on AliExpress that should work well:

Polycarbonate Panels

I recommend using 3 mm PC (polycarbonate) panels rather than acrylic as the material is stronger, more scratch resistant but more importantly both heat resistant and flame retardant.

If using acrylic panels, be careful when inserting the magnets as these panels are more likely to crack.

If you're able to cut the panels yourself you can save some money, otherwise there are some online services where you can upload the drawings and get a quote. Here's a few:

The DXF files are also included in the zip file above. Optionally you can use 4 mm panels, you just need to print a different hinge and support (included in the zip).

 

If you prefer you can also buy them from NetLaser (Germany) as a kit.

 

Optional

 

I highly recommend these Nano Coated Helical Extruder Gears from FYSETC, I use them for all my Bambu printers, they're inexpensive and offer a number of improvements of the stock gears:

Although not required these double sided textured PEI sheets are great. The Hex Tools are superb for any 3D printer, I've had mine for years.


Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)
vision-assembly-guide.pdf

Comment & Rating (49)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print in ABS
The designer has replied
2
Reply
Very nice, love the accents.
0
Reply
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
buona stabilità sul piano
0
Reply
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
(Edited)
Other Issues:somehow it came out to be like this for 3 times in a row even i recalibrated or leave it unplug overnight but still couldn’t make it on 3rd round but other print came after just fine just only this part i’m using generic PLA Silk with the same printing profile, does anyone have any idea what went wrong and how to fix it? thank you
0
Reply
Same issue for me. I printed it 2 times, using Bambu PLA Sparkle, and this plate still printed messed up.
0
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what are we going to do with the rest of the part that are printed😩 Can anyone give an advice for us how to finish this project?
0
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Hello. Would it be ok to print the parts with pla? All the filaments you recommend need to be printed enclosed as I read.
The designer has replied
1
Reply
If you intend printing ABS for example I would highly suggest going for PETG or "higher", so PETG, ABS, ASA etc. Using PLA for the enclosure, the parts can soften if the chamber temp is high (>50 C) for longer prints.
1
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Replying to @humebeam :
Thank you for the explanation
0
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i dont see the DXF for the panels. It says "The DXF files are also included in the zip file above." but there are no zip file only 3mf and stl *Edit* I found the zip on Printable https://www.printables.com/fr/model/363079-bambu-lab-p1p-vision-enclosure/files
(Edited)
2
Reply
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Amazing model. Easy do assembly.
0
Reply
Pretty effective for enclosing the P1P while leaving room for further personalization and modification.
0
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Boosted
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Printed with PETG and everything came out great. Was missing the Top Glass rear left spacer. But was able to pull it out of a remix and get it done. Looks great and fit was perfect.
0
Reply
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
great design
0
Reply
Print Profile
PLA Print - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Nice and clean print
0
Reply