May seem like a silly question, but what do you mean by "added modifiers to remove top and bottom layer"? and how did you do it? Also, does it make the spool flimsy? I read on one of the remixes that the spool was flimsy and they recommended ABS to stiffen it.
It is more "flexible", but not what I call flimsy - I was considering splitting the area in half again to add four more spokes to the next one.
You can add or combine geometry in the slicer and Assemble it into one structure, you can select the part of the geometry you want to change and change it to a modifier - from there you can make changes to the modifier (like in my case the no top and bottom layers, but it could be colour too) and that will only affect the parts within that modifier.
I added extra spokes and it is pretty solid and slightly increased the infill percentage - I added/uploaded my print profile if you were interested in printing it.
That actually looks pretty cool! would take less filament and probably prints faster. You should upload that profile. I’ve not had any issues with the honeycomb falling out. does it hold the filament well?
holds just fine. i only used petg for it, cant speak for if pla is durable enough. I got my speedy profile down to about 4.5 hours for a full spool. 10 spools into them. still need several more because that one time I went to microcenter and bought 40 rolls of inland on sale for like $10 a roll. the honeycomb issue is probably because my petg was under extruding slightly. thus cause an issue between the "inner wall" trying to link with the "outer wall" between the 2 walls that go around the honeycomb and the 2 walls that go around in the other direction. so I essentially was able to just flex it and pop out the honeycomb as an insert, I adjusted my flow up 2% but never went back to the honeycomb to test because it saves time and filament the way I had it anyways unless you wanted a pattern
For transparent PETG: Infill filament saver + solid label
It printed nicely, the parts fit perfectly with each other. It also looks cool.
Though I faced a strength issue, the inner cylider was partly detached from the outer circle (check photos), thankfully not completely. I believe it was like that even before removing it from the plate. I used dried Bambu Translucent PET-G, and I let it completely cool off before removing.
To solve this and be sure not to ruin my refill, I printed some reinforcement circles, and glued them into place (see photos).
There is a small gap on the inside, that the little piece slides in, in order to prevent the two halves from getting separated. Check attached pictures.
Perfect!
Printed in ABS to hold up to a filament dryer. I was a bit worried for them to survive a vacuum bag but it seems to hold up just fine without bending to much, even on almost empty spools.
ahh ok yeah want to get some carbon pellets but right now just the filter. but its on a table right next to my window so thinking it should be ok to run once and while especially when im at work.
When you lock the two halves of the bambu spools, there are three gaps in the center that these can go it. It helps prevent the spool from coming undone. I've had it happen once on a new spool/filament from Bambu, so I had to take it out and respool it to salvage the spool. It's more of a precaution for me.
thank you I did figure it out after I posted that comment. I originally tried sticking it in there when I first made it but didn't seem like it fit anywhere but once I revisited it, it did. operator error I guess haha
Strength Issue:No issues with printing, however I am unsure if I used the wrong filament or what bc it broke when I was trying to put it together with filament on it.
what material did you use? Also did you dry it first? I had an issue with some material printing a spool where the filament needed to be dried. Dried it and the next one ran like a champ.
Comment & Rating (9457)