Dry box enclsosure for MMS filament roller system

Hey Y'all  If you download my file and have boost tokens I'd really appreciate you throwing one my way.    I built this purely at the request of users of my MMS and it took a lot of time.  Thanks - Dave

This is my attempt at creating a drybox enclosure for the MMS (Manual Material System) I designed. Just in time for Christmas and printed in Christmas colors. Find the original MMS here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/89050#profileId-95509

Goals:

1. Be an add on to the original MMS (so the MMS is printed separately)
2. Allow for adequate desiccant.
3. Have an option for people that want to add a hygrometer. (I dont find those little hygrometers that accurate or consistent, but if you want one its there and I set one up)
4. be able to see inside (I'd never printed transparent filament)
5. Not take up too much room.
6. LOOK COOL!!

Parts:

• The original MMS - https://makerworld.com/en/models/89050#profileId-95509
• Eight M3x4mm socket cap pan head screws and 4 M3 x 6mm socket cap screws. You can never have enough M3 screws around for 3d printing. I used ones from this kit. https://amzn.to/4awEDik
• Longer M3 screws for attaching the original manifold. I used 16mm ones from this kit. https://amzn.to/3tu1Qks
• M3x4mm heat set threaded inserts. As mentioned in the original MMS project this kit is excellent. https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L but I also have found this provider on aliexpress where you can really stock up for cheap on commonly used sizes. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804693330073.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.68e91802d6TXJ1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
• Weather sealing - I added weather sealing to seal gap between the rolling lid and the main enclosure. not 100% sure it is necessary or worth the cost but I had it from some speaker builds I have done. I couldnt find the stuff I bought before by ¼ wide 1/16 tall is the size I used. https://amzn.to/3RE4z2G

Optional Parts:

• Sand paper for getting the window clear if you are going to go for transparent. This was my first time trying to “print glass”. I think my print profile is pretty good (with a .6mm nozzle) but will require the normal post processing. I used Bambu Labs transparent PETG. My main interest is woodworking so I have a selection up to a certain point. this kit would get you through on a fair number of transparent prints, but you will needs to start with 100,150,220 before you get into those. REALLY TAKE YOUR TIME ON THE COURSE GRITS. I quit at 1200 grit and just sprayed it with Deft sanding sealer lacquer https://amzn.to/41zOcZD . Its not the best outcome but it just wasnt that important to me. I'd be curious to see what the great minds on here find for better print profiles.
• Cob LED lights. I already have COB LED lights inside the excellent DK Riser so I bought a splitter with wire connectors so I could use the left over LEDs. Here's the LED's I used in case you dont have them: https://amzn.to/48xV1NR and the splitter in case you already have some with extra you cut off: https://amzn.to/48pGx2i
• Hygrometer: https://amzn.to/3tuBe2R again I am not convinced these are all that accurate, but here it is.
• reptile heat mat: I am removing the recommendation for this.  I dont think it is worth the added cost and complexity. 

Instructions:

• Found in the downloadable PDF

I live in a dry enviornment so I didnt really need this for how I use my printer, but people asked and it seemed like a worthy/fun design challenge. I spent probably 25-30 hours on my computer and bought supplies I woulnt have otherwise and quite a few rolls of filament trying to make it work.