Bambu Labs MMS (Manual Material System)

Bambu Labs MMS (Manual Material System)

Boost
1689
2260
221

Print Profile(3)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

variable layer height  3 walls, 15% infill
variable layer height 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
18.9 h
4 plates
4.8(57)

Mirrored base parts and manifold
Mirrored base parts and manifold
Designer
15.5 h
3 plates
5.0(7)

PETG 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
PETG 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
19.3 h
3 plates

Boost
1689
2260
221
24
1.6 k
1.3 k
Released

Description

Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks 

 

Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.

 

Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584

Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  

 

This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. 

 



I had a few goals.

  1. Be able to load filaments from the front.
  2. Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place
  3. Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.
  4. be quiet - ie no rubbing.

You're gonna need a few parts

  • I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. https://amzn.to/46UgvDl (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)
  • PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector you could also use one of these from amazon https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.
  • 8mm x300mm rod. https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF
  • M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm
  • M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. https://amzn.to/3NksT8C
  • Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. https://amzn.to/4afBenR
  • M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!
  • nylon washers I used ones from this kit. https://amzn.to/41hQDQz 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.
  • I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU

How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.

  1. Print bodies as indicated in file notes.
  2. While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.
  3. Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.
  4. using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.
  5. Screw the manifold to the front
  6. Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.
  7. The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely

     
  8. once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. 
  9. Assemble the manifold.
    1. cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.
    2. screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold. 
  10. Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold. 

  11. PRINT AWAY
     

 

 

EDIT:

 

DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.

 

here are his instructions:

In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings.
The corresponding g-code is in "noAMS.txt". 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comment & Rating (221)

Please fill in your opinion
(0/5000)

I am so sick to see people just copying design and fixes off another successful model with totally 0 purpose or any improvement at all just merely making another design that works the same as what a current avaliable model which already worked great, till i saw your model. Its refreshing and really nice to see some NEW really useful design going ahead. I like how you think out of the box for something that i have never seen anyone make before. I have bookmarked and will try this soon. Great work and i hope to see more as this design improves!
The designer has replied
47
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wow because it app only showed the start of your message I though you where going to town on the designer for ripping this off some less thank god I opened the rest of the comment :p
18
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Replying to @moorevfr :
could have worded it better but english is not my 1st language i do love the innovation of the creator. Huge respect.
8
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you mean like the one person who remixed this by copying and pasting together, changed the license to limit all further remixing and asked for donations for his efforts. :D
12
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I have an AMS so don't need this at the moment but just wanted to say that it is a great idea and looks well designed. Might print one later just have extra filaments ready to go. Thank you for the great design.
20
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It's nice for abrasive materials that cannot be used in AMS.
0
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Replying to @arekxyz :
This is exactly what I am thinking. Add to my AMS setup with a splitter between.. when I have single or even multiple colors, have g-code pauses to change. BUT, having something that is simple to feed things like pla-lw would be so nice.
1
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Print Profile
variable layer height 3 walls, 15% infill
Fun project to put together. waiting on the cable chain which comes tomorrow to get installed. the bases didn't come together perfectly so getting the rods in was a bit tough but manageable. Had to print the base in two colors since I ran out of filament but it looks close enough. One recommendation would be to add another set of washers to the print profile for both rods. excited to try it out and have an easier way to load filament!
The designer has replied
1
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PM me details on the base. you're the second person to say somethign about this, but I cant figure out why. Did you use the profile print settings or change anything. Yours seems to have a lot of print artifacts too. particularly when I look at the filament manifold. if it didn't print at .08 height for that part I think you might have trouble with filament catching during loading.
(Edited)
1
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Replying to @Imaginarydave :
hey! I printed the bases in PETG and the manifold in pla (silk dual color). I thought the manifold came out great actually. for the bases, it really wasn't that bad. I'm pretty new to 3D printing so I can only offer what I think maybe going on. One is the supports for the second half and perhaps there was some leftover bits. it is raised maybe half a millimeter to a millimeter after joining him together. here's some pics of some close-ups.
(Edited)
0
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ahhh yeah. maybe you didnt get the supports fully cleaned up. I've had materials prone to sticking more do this. petg has been a common culprit. I've been thinking about modifying this to just use two halves and dowels. haven't had time. but hopefully soon.
(Edited)
1
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I have designed a similar quick manual material system, but I think your is better and worth referring to. I would like to improve my MMS later.
3
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Excellent functional design, quick enough to print. Mine needed a 1% size increase for x and y axis for the sleeves surrounding the earrings to fit
The designer has replied
0
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did you print them in TPU as designed? they should slip over just fine?
0
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Replying to @Imaginarydave :
Oh, I did miss that - I printed in PLA - that explains it. Having said that, printing in PLA with the 1% size increase has worked very well. Functionally I find this print outstanding.
0
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Print Profile
variable layer height 3 walls, 15% infill
your instructions were clear and precise. the models were good. everything's went smoothly. thank you for taking the time to make it and post it.
The designer has replied
1
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awesome! glad you liked it.
0
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Boosted
This and the cover is absolutely amazing! Thanks for sharing! Great design, relatively easy to print and it looks good! For those like me who print big parts for the first time: I had warping issues caused by the default setting of the P1S to have the AUX fan constantly running at 70% and starting from the 2nd layer. This lead to warping on side where the airflow comes out. I had the issue two times with a plate as clean as possible. Lowering the AUX fan to 15% and starting from layer 5 and setting bed temperature to 59°C solved the issue. (Textured PEI Plate) I uploaded a little remix for the bearing covers for thoses who don't have TPU and don't want to order a spool "just" (not minimizing your work!) for that. It has one open end so you can push the bearing easily but it's tight so the cover won't slip over the bearing. Not as good as TPU but it does the job.
The designer has replied
0
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thanks, its best if you upload a different material as a print profile to the model page and a boost would be appreciated.
0
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Came out neat! Thank you for all the effort you clearly put into this.
The designer has replied
0
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glad you liked it!
0
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Print Profile
variable layer height 3 walls, 15% infill
Smart ”MMS - Manual Material System”! The model was easy to print.
(Edited)
1
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Can we get a flipped version of the manifold? If I mirror it, will it mess up the threads?
The designer has replied
0
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I could probably do that. I will look into next week.
2
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Awesome. Thank you. I mounted my spools above in a cabinet and a mirrored manifold would help.
0
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@Jalerm2 wenn du alles spiegelst sollte es gehen.
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