the Raz

MakerVerse Designs

<h3>Fully 3d printed slide shoes, inspired by adilettes</h3><ul><li>printed with TPU (I used Bambu Labs TPU 95A HF, but I suggest using a softer filament)</li></ul>Important notes:<ul><li>It is for EU shoe size number 43 (male), but you can scale them to your size (use uniform scaling)</li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 59.62%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000488792/design/2024-06-08_c42631354d275.png"><ul><li>If the shoe is too big to fit to the printers height, use the “WithSupport”-Version, rotate in Y-Axis (green) and use the cut tool in Bambu Studio to create a new flat surface parallel to the print bed<ul><li>I uploaded an .stl file without cut on the bottom for better scaling</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>There are two ways to print this:</li></ul><ol><li>Use a textured PEI bed and print it standing up without support (It works very well, especially with printers where the bed is not moved so much, such as P1S, P1P X1,…)</li><li>Or use another not so sticky bed and print it standing up with support (recommended for A1 or similar printers)</li></ol><img class="image_resized" style="width: 58.39%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000488792/design/2024-06-08_76346ecb50f49.png">&nbsp;Check out my other models, for example the fully printed crocs shoes: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/425034#profileId-328514" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/425034#profileId-328514</a>&nbsp;Have fun with it and leave a like or subscribe if you like it!If there are any suggestions for improvement, feel free to write a comment.

Slide Shoes (Adilette) - Fully 3d-printed

Shoes

RP47 Designs

I also made a giant 4pc verison of this print posted here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/192405#profileId-212614&nbsp;&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA+ Sunlu Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA+ Sunlu Grey Transmission Distance: 2 PLA+ Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 5&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #15 (1.28mm) swap to Grey At layer #30 (2.48mm) swap to White for the rest.

Elephant Face Wall Art

Hueforge/Lithophane

Le RmX en 3D

Universal car phone holder, everything is printed on a single plate, unless you want to make the clamp in PETG.&nbsp;I suggest making the clamp out of PETG because in PLA, it deteriorates very quickly and stops working.&nbsp;Ultra-simple assembly, no screws to use, only an elastic band.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.09%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000442644/design/2024-04-25_1e6a6a132a1ad.png"></figure>&nbsp;Feel free to give me feedback on the use and printing of the holder.

Universal car phone holder

Revisit

ProtoSpyre3D

<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h2>🚀 “Poop Chute Boot&#34; [v2]</h2>The &#34;Poop Chute Boot&#34; is an innovative accessory designed specifically for the P1 Series and X1 Series. This part addresses a common noise during the printing process: filament residue accumulation of the “Purge Chute” A.K.A “The Poop Chute”<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h3>💬 INTRODUCTION ~ ~ ~</h3>The design of the Poop Chute Bootie ensures seamless integration with the Bambu Labs printers, allowing for easy installation and removal without interfering with the printer&#39;s functionality. This started when I noticed how loud our original printers were versus our newer model P1P. Upon inspection of the chute I seen a silicone boot on the end of the lever and realized I needed more for the others.NOW AVALIABLE ON PRINTABLES<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"><h3>💡 BACKGROUND ~ ~ ~</h3>Flippity - Jippity - KabLAam!Boot was born.⏰User-Friendly Design Its simple, user-friendly design facilitates effortless installation and removal, requiring no additional tools or complex procedures.😎FunctionalityDampens lever contact on purge chute door! Overtime this becomes louder, not with this on though!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h3>✅ BILL OF MATERIALS ~ ~ ~</h3>Printed using 95A TPUPLA/PETG works as a resort to not having TPU on hand but TPU HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h3>🛠️ INSTALLATION ~ ~ ~</h3><ol><li>Remove (Purge Chute Door Lever) it&#39;s held on with (1) Allen head screw *Critical* ~ DO NOT loose screw or bushing!</li><li>Take lever off after removal, set aside components for reinstallation. (Screw &amp; white rubber bushing)</li><li>Take Poop Chute Boot &amp; Slip on as if you were putting on shoes. (Boot should be a snug slip on fit)</li><li>After comfirming boot is attached properly (Prongs facing operator)</li><li>Reinstall Purge Chute Lever with screw set aside from operation #2 *Critical* ~ DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Screw in until any resistance!</li><li>Enjoy the dampened effects every purge!</li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h3>📝 CHANGELOG ~ ~ ~</h3>[*] = Latest Revision<h3>*12/04/2023 - added v2 Raw .step File (Thicker Prongs for all materials) Install Photos and Function</h3>11/30/2023 - New TPU Profile added / Adjusted Model Thicker Prongs for Rigidity<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure><h3>📣 MENTIONS ~ ~ ~</h3>Thank you!We sincerely appreciate the feedback and all the comments we&#39;ve gained over the time of this release!Please (don&#39;t have to) Boost if you want!*Latest 4 -to- 1 PTFE Adapter! - Check it out!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png"></figure>🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟Any ❓ or concerns please don&#39;t hesitate 📬 us! If you the model please Like &amp; Share!<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000074561/design/2024-04-06_e17982d0c5271.png">

Poop Chute Boot - Tailored for X1/P1 Series

Spares and mods

I was inspired by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/418630-bambu-lab-integrated-hepa-carbon-aux-filter" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/418630-bambu-lab-integrated-hepa-carbon-aux-filter</a> but this is a redesign from scratch. My 10x3 magnets were in reality only 2.6 mm thick so this cage is made to fit four of them stacked - in four places. That bundled with some ridges make the cage sit very tight and secure.&nbsp;Find "GL2103 HEPA carbon filter" on eg. Amazon. Remove the plastic cage it comes in, and put the bare filter in this cage. Remove the three screws on your aux fan housing, put corresponding magnets on the inside of it with a drop of super glue (guided by the cage's magnets on the outside). I think I used 16 magnets on the inside as well, they barely fit between the fan and the housing. After that trivial installation, the cage is easily removed for filter replacement with no tools.

Aux fan integrated HEPA + activated carbon filter (eg. GL2103)

HEPA/carbon filter stuff

MV design

Simple dino

Cute little things

Tibberz

If you like me have windows with blinds between the inner and outer glass you probably will have a rod on the side to change the angle on the blind. There is a holder for the rod that over the years will probably dry out and crack and the rod will not stay neatly on the window frame. I made this replacement part from the original design on my windows. &nbsp;It's made for a rod that's roughly ⌀5mm Screw hole is ~⌀3.5mm and screw head ~⌀5.5mm&nbsp;I recommend to print in PETG ore something more flexible.Made several test with PLA but its too hard/brittle and cracks very easy..

Replacement Holder For Window Blind Rod

Household

Sakul

Revolutionize your workspace with these Brick Stackable Desk Boxes – where playfulness meets productivity! 🧱✨ Unleash your creativity and tidy up your desk simultaneously with these 5:1 Brick brick-inspired organizers. Available in 2x2 and 2x4 sizes, each Box comes complete with a built-in drawer for seamless storage of your office essentials. These bricks are not only five times the size of regular clamping Bricks but are also stackable, just like the iconic building blocks.Mix and match to create your personalized desk masterpiece! Elevate your organizational game and bring a touch of childhood nostalgia to your workspace. The Brick Stackable Desk Boxes – because work can be both efficient and fun!  If you like my work and want to support me in creating more free original designs, I would very much appreciate it if you <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/sakul" rel="nofollow noopener">“buy me a coffee”.</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Check out my newest Uploads <figure class="table" style="width: 98.39%"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/484385#profileId-396742" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000139300/design/2024-06-04_fa3ccc46fa531.jpg"></a><figcaption>🍦Pop &amp; Catch Toys Ice Cream Cone🍦</figcaption></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/447981#profileId-354736" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000139300/design/2024-05-01_5c7d04a643a0d.jpg"></a><figcaption>🐷Minecraft Animal Farm Pack🐮</figcaption></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Brick Stackable Desk Boxes

Storage

Julia Ebert

This is a big toy human figure that's inspired by a Lego minifigure. I spent a lot of time making this model from scratch to match the original design while making tweaks for tolerances, printability, and strength. While there were a number of minifigure models I found online, most were not designed for printing, which is a particular challenge for the leg, arm, and hand joints. I'm particularly proud of the universal clip I designed for these, which makes for easy assembly and stiff-enough joints to pose your figure.I designed the clips and tolerances for this model to be printed at 100% (10x original Lego scale), but people have previously had success printing my <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/78695-mega-lego-like-skeleton-101-scale" rel="nofollow">10x Lego-like skeleton</a> at smaller scales (eg, 50% or 5x Lego-scale).Now that I have a base model for a Lego-like figure, this opens up a host of options for specific Lego-like figures. If there's something particular you're interested in, leave a comment or send me a message! If you want to make your own modifications, I've included STEP files for all parts (just be sure to give credit for my original design).Fully assembled, this model stands 40 cm (~16 inches) tall. I printed mine with Hatchbox true blue PLA, Hatchbox true red PLA, and Prusament mango yellow PETG.<h4>Printing Instructions</h4>I've included 3MF files for all parts, and parts should import correctly oriented for printing.<ul><li>For PrusaSlicer 2.6+: you just need to load the project file. (This makes use of organic supports, for the legs, which are added with PrusaSlicer 2.6.)</li><li>For other slicers: I've included details about special instructions for all parts, so you should be able to replicate anything necessary for proper printing. Except where otherwise noted, I printed parts in PLA at 0.15mm layer height with 7% cubic infill and without supports.</li></ul>You will need to print:<ul><li><code>32x-connector-pins.3mf</code>: You should need 30 pins for assembly (or 26 if you print the solid head); this has 2 extra just in case. If you have trouble with bed adhesion, add a brim</li></ul><h5>Legs</h5><ul><li><code>legs.3mf</code>: Uses tree supports the top of the lower hole on the leg.</li><li><code>hips.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Body</h5><ul><li><code>arms.3mf</code>: These print with a small surface area on the bed (the wrists), so you might want to add a brim if you have trouble with bed adhesion.</li><li><code>body.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Head & hands</h5><ul><li><code>2x-hands-wrists.3mf</code>: Requires supports on the underside of the wrist clip. Like the limb clips, I recommend printing with PETG (or similar) with 25% infill.</li><li>One of: (all require supports on the underside curve of the head)<ul><li><code>head-face-mmu.3mf</code>: Print the head & face as one part with some sort of multi-material printer (e.g., Prusa MMU or Bambu AMS). Use supports on the underside curve of the head.</li><li><code>split-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head (with cutouts) in two pieces. Use pins and glue to connect the halves. Print the face separately and glue it in.</li><li><code>solid-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head and face as separate prints. Use supports on the underside curve of the head. Then glue the face parts into the head.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembly Instructions</h4>In addition to the printed parts, you will need cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue/superglue). <h5>Legs</h5><ol><li>Glue the pins into the top of the hip. Add glue to the holes and bottom surface of each of the hip pegs and attach. Important: The slope of each hip peg should be facing out to the sides. If the pins don't want to go together, check that you have this orientation right!</li><li>Use the same gluing approach to attach the limb clips to each side of the hips.</li><li>Gently but firmly press each leg onto the clips. It should snap into place. The hips are symmetric, so you can't put the legs on backwards. This requires a fair bit of force, but you shouldn't need a hammer. If it won't go on, slightly sand or file down the outer head of the limb clip (rather than the inside of the hole on the leg). Warning: The clips are not designed to come out once they're attached, so make sure you're ready.</li></ol><h5>Body</h5><ol><li>Glue the limb clips into each arm, like you did for the legs.</li><li>Glue the wrist onto the hand, with the pins. Because of the relative print orientations here, it's best to use a bit more glue here to make sure it stays on.</li><li>Press each wrist clip into the arm. (They're the same, so you can't put in the wrong hand.)</li><li>Press each arm clip into the body. The body is also symmetric, so you can't put the arms on backwards.</li></ol><h5>Head</h5>If you printed the separate head and face pieces, glue the face pieces into the head. You may need to file or sand some of the face pieces to fit, depending on how well the supports worked.<h4>License Note</h4>This model is marked as non-commercial because I don't want anyone (including myself) having Lego come after them with a lawyer. If you choose to sell prints of this model, you do so at your own risk!

Mega Lego-like Minifigure (10:1 scale)

RevHazlett

I made a remix of this grease packer so it can be be used to quickly and easily apply PTFE grease to 8mm lead screws. Specifically fit to the Super Lube 21030 (3oz) tube so I can get it on the rear lead screw on my Bambu X1 much easier. Works great!

8mm Lead Screw Grease Applicator for Super Lube 3oz 21030 Tube

Tools

Brent Peterson

This test model is designed to weigh exactly 10 grams when printed in solid PLA (volume of 8000 mm^3). Due to nozzle diameter, slicer settings and many other factors the estimated and printed weight might not be exactly 10 grams but you can tune your flow ratio and density to match either the slicer estimated weight or 10 grams. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_aeb3cf91465a2.png"><figcaption>Default print settings for PLA, 1.00 flow ratio and 1.25 g/cm^3</figcaption></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_b3e3248e40715.png"><figcaption>Estimated weight after slicing, 9.89 grams</figcaption></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_e3af04c308809.jpg"><figcaption>Initial print with default settings, 9.48 grams total (95.85% of estimated weight)</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;FlowRatio *= EstimatedWeight / MeasuredWeightFlowRatio = 1.00 * 9.89 / 9.48FlowRatio = 1.0432&nbsp;Density *= MeasuredWeight / EstimatedWeightDensity = 1.25 * 9.48 / 9.89Density = 1.1982&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_25d413c7b10a4.png"><figcaption>Calibrated flow rate and density using mass of printed model</figcaption></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_f6c510f1d8e6a.jpg"><figcaption>Printed model after calibration, 9.87 grams (0.2% error)</figcaption></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_fc13a4130d11b.jpg"><figcaption>Dimensional accuracy check, expected 24 mm diameter (0.166% error)</figcaption></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/336124/2023-10-22_92afb1c3437ed.jpg"><figcaption>Flow rate calibration using 1.00 initial flow rate</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;This is an ongoing experiment so any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

10 Gram Calibration Weight

Tests and techniques

Fredster

Dies ist ein Adapter für die Papppulen von Eryone. Damit lassen sich die Spulen benutzen ohne sie umzuwickeln und ohne die Gummirollen des Bambulab AMS zu beschädigen.Layherhöhe von 0,2 ist vollkommen ausreichend. &nbsp;&nbsp;This is an adapter for the cardboard Spools from Eryone. It allows you to use the Filament without wrapping them and without damaging the rubber rollers of the Bambulab AMS.Layher height of 0.2 is fully sufficient. &nbsp;&nbsp;

ERYONE Cardboard Spool Adapter for AMS

Cardboard spool adapters

BombProofParts

Sunlu Filament Refill Adapter to use Bambu Spool. I have only tested this on the WHITE Bambu spools though it may work on the others, I don't have any other style Bambu Spools to test fit. NOTE(s): I discovered one of my Bambu Spools has a very slightly larger bore than the rest so I added a file with Extra Bore Clearance in case you run into the same… v9 is the tighter bore and v11 is the looser bore. Then I found a couple of Sunlu refills I just received are even NARROWER so I updated the thickness accordingly in v12. Also Worth Noting, you can stack these together to make them thicker if you have some thin refills.&nbsp;The Sunlu Refill sets that include one “Sunlu Master Spool” and several refills wrapped in velcro are a moderately inexpensive way to get decent filament, especially when on sale. The problem is that the Sunlu Master Spool is a sloppy fit and has some feed and retraction issues in the Bambu AMS (possibly even pulling as a single on the external holder) because there is too much slop between both the sides and the spindle. Making a spacer for the side of those Sunlu spools would be very thin because the fit is “almost good” BUT when using these refills on the Bambu spool the center spindle fit is better but the slop to the side plate is MUCH worse. This Adapter Spacer fills that side gap and allows the Sunlu Refill to feed perfectly on the Bambu Spools, far better than it does on the Sunlu “Master Spool”.&nbsp;This may work with other refills that are normally too narrow for the Bambu spool however I have not tested any other brand refill. If you test it on another brand and it works, please comment with the info. For the Original v9, Print time is approximately 90 to 120 minutes and ~49 grams of filament depending on your walls, infill, etc. I do 3 walls with 4 top and bottom layers and 15% Gyroid and they are strong and work perfectly. I have printed in PLA Tough and PETG and surprisingly the PLA Tough version survives my filament dryer but your mileage in your dryer may vary.&nbsp;Print this with the TEXT UP and the smooth side to the plate, no supports, no brim.

Sunlu Refill on Bambu Spool Adapter

Refill adapters

Longracks Labs

Mashup of Dry Pods and Desiccant tray models for using desiccant beads in AMS.&nbsp;v2 in Raw Model download includes update includes:<ul><li>Plate with DryPods (0 degree offset), and trays (same as v1)</li><li>Plate with DryPod at 30 degree offset</li><li>Plate with ‘skinny’ DryPods as needed (with AMS wear preventer, etc.)  </li></ul>Drop a Boost if you are happy with this print!

Dry Pods and Desiccant Trays for AMS

AMS mods

starfalk

A desiccant box with lid for the Sunlu Filamantdryer S4I printed this in ASA to prevent melting. I think PETG should work too.Printable without supports.Please let me know if you have any issues

Sunlu S4 Desiccant Box

Sunlu S4 mods

laisch

<h3>HUGHES MD - 500 (flyable pullcopter) </h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_sman5x65txu7.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Externals</h3>For launching the MD-500, you need to make the “<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/81500" rel="nofollow noopener">Overpowered Heli Launcher</a>” before:<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/81500" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_cmrmg9lwcdhu.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Printingsettings</h3>Print as light as possible. I used 2 perimeter, 0.2mm layerheight and 10% infill on the helicopter body.For the Rotor use Arachne in the slicer.&nbsp;<h3>Postprocessing</h3><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_n770l86x94u8.jpg"></figure>Clean the hole for the shaft with an 8mm drill bit. Make it as clean as possible to avoid friction.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_41bpt3jnpijj.jpg"></figure>Add the pins to the body and glue the two haves together with some superglue</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_bb2k67jpmjiq.jpg"></figure>Add a drop of superglue into the skid holes and glue the skids in place</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_huhj8w7d9shl.jpg"></figure>To make the helicopter fly stable, you have to direct the airflow of the propeller to act as a counterforce against the rotors spinning direction. The easiest way is to make a fin with transparent tape.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_i9cggf52mewy.jpg"></figure>You have to adjust the sice and angle of the tape according to your friction on the shaftTestfly -→ adjust → repeat …</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_61dldorkdcxe.jpg"></figure>Mount the rotor to the shaft. It should be friction fit, but if its too lose you can add some superglue. (The rotor should spin freely)</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_etlatpk1760y.jpg"></figure>To stop the helicopter from rotating during the launch, you have to add the helistops to your launcher. Just remove the old M3x6 screw and replace it with a M3x10.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_7efl5p749tfj.jpg"></figure>Have Fun</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;

MD-500 (flyable Helicopter)

Toys

JDJDJD

<h2><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/693332/2023-10-20_f597d805fa3e9.gif"></h2>The TopProp is very stable and thoughtfully designed to prop your glass lid open for venting.&nbsp;Venting is recommended by Bambu Lab in many situations, for example when using PLA on the Textured PEI plate and Smooth PEI plate.&nbsp;The TopProp provides 30 inches of venting across the top of your machine.&nbsp;Featuring a stylish design with the perfect angles for supporting your glass top, TopProp also includes a handy magnetized hanger making use easy, quick and enjoyable.&nbsp;<ul><li>No Brims</li><li>No Overhangs</li><li>No Supports</li></ul><h3> </h3><h3>Magnets:</h3>Magnets can be easily pressed into place. Several magnet diameters are supported and can be up to 7mm in height.&nbsp;<ul><li>10mm diameter magnets</li><li>8mm diameter magnets</li><li>6mm diameter magnets</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Print Orientation Requirements:</h3><ul><li>TopProp: Side on bed</li><li>TopProp Hanger: Large flat side on bed</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Tips:</h3><ul><li>The side of the machine has some internal metal components that work with the magnets. The best locations on the sides are near the front and back corners (see image examples). However, if you want your TopProp even more secure you can simply use a small loop of gift wrapping tape on the backside of the hanger in conjunction with the magnets. It’s best to install the tape with the open ends of the looped tape facing up and down (vs side to side). This prevents the tape from rolling.</li><li>Magnets can be stacked up to 7mm in height for added strength.</li><li>I don't set my AMS on top of my machine, instead I use a shelf above my printer. Extra weight on top raises the center of gravity and can create a swaying effect. As such, this is designed around no AMS on top. It's also possible to print two TopProps and use them on the right and left corners - they fit there, too.</li></ul>