Right off the plate if printed as is, there's a bit of "flashing" on the beveled edge on the face of the parts that touch the bed, like a support without any arms or trees. Not sure why that was there. The buttons need to be scaled to 98-99% of how they are in the project, because they were an EXACT fit into the holes, so some sanding was needed before I realized I should have just reprinted that part hehehe. I needed the longer battery wire that came with the Heltec board itself to splice in the 3000mAh battery because with the battery I got, the leads were too short to solder in the switch. The listed switch fits PERFECTLY and sits just proud enough to get a fingernail on it. The antenna wire that comes with the Heltec can be used, but a shorter one would be better, but it does work. The board "clips" into the body firmly with some little tabs in the print. Snaps shut nicely but will pop open if dropped from 3ft (ask me how I know!). Overall this is a good design. I like it.

I cut a hole in mine between the tube/handle section and the filament lock section to save a little on material, though it didn't seem to help on time. For PETG I needed a brim and raft with my particular filament to get it to stick to the textured PEI bed (failed the first time). My spools should now be safe and dryable at the same time.

Works perfectly with the default PTFE tube, allows you to cut it cleanly with a typical utility knife razor blade, nice and square.

Fits perfect, though if your power or lan cable has a bit of tension, then maybe add a bit more of a ridge on the stems that hold the body of the Hubitat so it doesn't want to pop out. If the cables are slack, then this is perfect as is.