An Icon Through Time Comes to Life: Modeling, Interactivityand Innovation with CyberBrick In the world of 3D printing and making, some projects go beyond being simple physical objects and become true experiences. This display model is a perfect example: a scaled reinterpretation of the iconic time-travel car, capable of combining aesthetics, mechanics, and electronics into one fascinating creation.A Model Crafted in Every DetailAt the heart of the project is, of course, the model itself. The body has been designed to maintain accurate proportions and clean lines, with special attention to the iconic elements that make the vehicle instantly recognizable. The rear components, technical intakes, and finishes all contribute to creating a futuristic yet believable aesthetic.What truly makes this model special, however, is its dynamic component. This is not just a static object: thanks to an integrated system, the wheels can rotate 90° to switch from road mode to flight mode, replicating one of the vehicle’s most iconic features. In addition, a complete lighting system—including front headlights and rear thrusters—can be activated, giving the model an even more striking visual impact.An Interactive Base That Makes the DifferenceThe display base is much more than a simple stand: it is the true control center of the entire system. Designed with retro-style graphics inspired by electronic circuits, it integrates a console with switches and physical controls that allow direct interaction with the model.Each command has a precise and tangible function: from activating the lights to controlling movements, all the way to transforming the wheels. This approach not only makes the model more realistic, but also turns the user experience into something active and engaging—almost as if you were actually piloting the vehicle.https://makerworld.com/en/models/2664226-delorean-time-machine-cyberbrick#profileId-2947742CyberBrick: Simplicity and Power for CreativityOne of the most interesting aspects of this project is the use of CyberBrick, a solution that perfectly represents the evolution of modern making. Thanks to their plug-and-play nature, CyberBrick modules make it easy, fast, and accessible to integrate electronic components—even for those without advanced electronics skills (like me, after all 😅).No complex soldering, no difficult wiring: everything is designed to be intuitive and immediate. This means you can stay focused on design and creativity without being slowed down by technical barriers.But the real strength of CyberBrick lies in its potential. It doesn’t just simplify the creation of a single project—it opens the door to endless possibilities. From interactive models to smart objects, functional prototypes to creative installations, the applications are virtually limitless.A Project That Blends Passion and InnovationThis model is much more than a simple display piece. It represents the meeting point between design, technology, and a passion for pop culture. It is a concrete demonstration of how modern tools like 3D printing and CyberBrick can transform an idea into something tangible, dynamic, and truly impressive.Perfect for display, yet even more exciting to use and showcase in action, this project fully embodies the spirit of making: to create, experiment, and bring something unique to life.

Hi everyone!I wanted to share some insight into how I made the explorer kit for the 4x4.InspirationInspiration started with looking at off-road rescue vehicles, e.g. land rovers, jeeps, Ineos grenadiers. Rescue vehicles often have specialist accessories such as a winch or floodlights, in order to highlight large areas of land for searching/visibility or to rescue other vehicles/itself. My favourite one is the mountain rescue version but here's some more that I liked:Found online.Found online. See the floodlights and winch.Found online. I adopted the overhead floodlights and front winch into my design:First is the floodlights. There were many challenges in making this. I focussed on hiding the wires down channels in the roll cage frame and covering up the LED hub with a cover. There was a lot of messing around with different ideas because the cable needed to reach the circuit board below. Another challenge was making the white LED cover have an even glow, lots of playing around with the distance of the end cap to the LED and different thicknesses.Next is the winch. I managed to fit 2 of the existing steel dowel pins on the original 4x4 car into the front. This adds a bit of longevity by preventing the cord from biting/wearing out the plastic.  The main issue was powering the N20 motor. I needed another socket on the receiver as the only 2 were taken up by the driving motors. So I fitted another receiver to the car and it was A LOT of moving things around to fit another switch, battery, AND receiver on the car. If you look at the car, one switch was cleverly mounted beneath the main chassis with one screw, it was a miracle moment. Also the second switch and receiver were squeezed underneath the bonnet.   Shown in the floodlights diagram, I managed to fit a second battery to the case (to power the second receiver) without changing the main chassis, it was really close to not fitting. One new challenge was that now the batteries stick upwards and the top plate couldn't be put on🥺. That's why I made a raised boot floor to fit them. And I made the seats have a slide and lock mechanism so I didn't need to use screws, which took up valuable space in material thickness. If I used screws, then the seats would be much higher.  OK… But is the winch good?The 150 rpm motor has lots of torque so the car can pull another small car easily or even pull itself up. Although this is just to demonstrate, I would be careful pulling high loads for a long time. But it was really good that the motor was surprisingly strong as I didn't need to add gears. It means the winch can be used like in real life scenarios, pulling cars stuck in mud or pulling itself out a ditch using a tree.🌲-----🚗 Found online. And finally the accessories. Some classic accessories I had to add were a jerry can, off-road wheels, rugged storage boxes, bonnet louvres, and a message on the back. Just like these:Found online.Found online.And well done to @Wobogong for correctly guessing the floodlights from a sneak peak!🎉And that's just about it for now. Let me know what you think, thanks for reading.

Since the release of CyberBrick, us creators got the ability to create amazing projects. CyberBrick sentence the new era of electronics and modular systems, all that combined with 3D Printing. Not only us as creators but also all the Makers and Users from all over MakerWorld and the whole 3D Printing community got into our hands this amazing gift given by MakerWorld and BambuLab. And every single one has been trying to exploit CyberBrick Ecosystems in every single possible aspect and this is what my new GT-RC 4S Chassis is all about. Long time ago I released the GT-RC S and the GT-RC R, 2 modular chassis based on the same phylosophy, they should be able to accomodate any single possible car that I could Imagine and that I would love to have in my hands but this time with this project (GT-RC) It wasn´t anymore about 3D Printing something and then just let it catch dust in a display rack. This time not only me but users from all over the world where able to not only feel the things that they 3D Printed, but also drive them and watch them in action. Since the Release of GT-RC S I´ve released more than 12 cars and all of them are compatible with GT-RC S and GT-RC R, but being honest, everytime I wanted to have fun and take this cars for a ride or even go with friends and make some races I never took the GT-RC S, this chassis is the small brother of the GT-RC Family and it was based on the CyberBrick and MakerSupply Architecture, the problem with this last one is that it was barely able to reach top speeds of 6Km/h while it´s big brother the GT-RC R was able to reach top speeds of 70 to 80 Km/h.  I really Enjoyed tinkering and playing with the GT-RC S, it was easier to use and more accessible, thanks to the CAD Files provided by MakerSupply I was able to create a chassis with better ergonomics, functionality and accessibility but the philosophy of this chassis was to only be compatible with MakerSupply components, that means that the highest performance engines were the N20 1000RPM´s but the problems comes when you take a look to the physics behind small electric motors. When I released the GT-RC S Chassis inside the BOM People can find the needed components and inside that list, the N20 400RPM Motors arrived, people was constantly asking why the 400RPM and not the 1000RPM? Well the answer is simple, the higher the RPM´s the Lower the Torque, so in real world conditions and after some tests, I was unable to use the N20 1000RPM Motors, cars barely were able to start and move from their stading position, this 3D Printed Cars are heavy and some people complained about the waste of plastic involved in the shells and how time consuming they are, but again there´s a reason for that. The another side of the story when it comes to the 3D Printed Shells and why they have so much infill or why they are so heavy is just for one single reason, GT-RC Started on it´s roots with the GT-RC R, the GT-RC S was something that I never planned, CyberBrick arrived right in the middle of the development of the GT-RC R. And once I completed the first functional prototypes of this last one, I found a problem, cars had no grip, no matter what TPU Filament I used for the Tyres, so the cars needed more weight to transfer more grip to the ground and that´s the main reason but again this decision came at a cost that I never expected it would affect another project that I was about to launch, the GT-RC S. So when I already had available the shells of GT-RC and the GT-RC R First protoype I started to work on the GT-RC S, I was so excited to release a CyberBrick version of my modular chassis, but again we go back into the start, the main problem, the powertrains offered by Maker´s Supply, the options were N20 400 or N20 1000 and as most of you already know and based on the results that previously said in this post, I had to use the N20 400, Speed? Boring compared to GT-RC R, Emotions? Almost non Existent, Fun? Nope. But don´t get me wrong I knew the reasons and I don´t blame the motors or the ecosystem by itself, I still was amazed that such tiny motors were able to move those big 1/12 scale Big Blocks of 3D Printed PLA, Some cars were almost at the point of weighting 1Kg. So going back to the start, CyberBrick offered an ecosystem that allows us creators to make anything we have in mind, the limit is our creativity and my creativity and head were constantly telling me to improve and make faster the GT-RC S. So the solution? Simple, Adding more motors to the Formula, But Applying the solution into the practice? Well that is the complex part and where the headaches started. So based on that idea of applying more motors there was 2 possible ways, implementing 4 motors in the rear or implementing 4 motors at each wheel, 2 at the front 2 at the rear, the first solution easy, but the crazy or reinventing factor was poor and I really wanted to release an AWD Chassis, wich was something that I never did, so I went with the second solution, more complex but it had more of a crazy factor. So I started tweaking in the CAD and as soon as the .STEP File of the N20 Motors arrived to the front Axis, the problems started everywhere, the Motors were colliding with everything, they were hitting Both Suspensions Coilovers, they hitted even the central pillar of the front chassis, when suspensions compressed they hit the control arms, the steering rack? Impossible to connect it to the Front Axis, so the solution needed more of my creativity, I had to make an Entire new Front Chassis, new Steering Design, new Stronger and at the same time thinner suspensions and also I had to fix and change some things that I didn´t liked from the GT-RC S, things that some users complained about and that I had to redesign, but after 1 Month, evey single solution arrived, with patience and determination. And the Results? Well you can check my new CrowdFunding Campaign and see the new GT-RC 4S and see why it´s the new era of modular CyberBrick Chassis, a new chassis that now it´s really well paired with CyberBrick and a Chassis that now I really want to use and that extracts every single possible potential available from the currenet hardware for CyberBrick. So you can consider this as the Prologue of what you´re about to see in the GT-RC 4S Presentation Video. https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/254-gt-rc-4s-next-gen-cyberbrick-modular-rc-chassis

Since I began uploading models to the website in 2019, I have always included an assembly guide. For simple models, one diagram is usually enough; for complex models the guide can be as detailed—or more—than the model itself. Many people have asked how I create these guides, so here’s a concise explanation of my process and lessons learned. Background My first detailed guide was for the “Enclosure for Snapmaker 2.0” (for the Snapmaker A250). The enclosure uses aluminum profiles, acrylic panels, 3D-printed parts, and screws. I built it myself and could assemble it from memory, but I needed a way to guide others if I wanted to share the model with them. After producing a detailed guide, other users were able to reproduce the enclosure successfully. That experience started my ongoing practice of making complete assembly guides.Enclosure for Snapmaker 2.0 Assembly Guide“Make” by others:   Layout and ToolsYou can use any design software (Photoshop, Illustrator, CorelDRAW, etc.).Because many users print guides, I recommend A4 portrait layout. (Not all my models’ assembly guides are in this type; before, I didn’t realize users would print them.)I divide the assembly guide into three main parts: Brief, Bill of Materials, and Diagram & Instructions. (Note: I now usually put the Brief in the model’s online “Model Information,” so the guide typically contains the last two parts.)1. Bill of Materials (BOM)The BOM lists every item needed: 3D-printed parts, non-printed parts, tools, and special-filament requirements.I prefer presenting everything in a single image so users can check at a glance—this is my “Before Start” checklist.Numbered part labels (like plastic model kits) help identification(Cipher Helmet Lock), but add a lot of work because every step must keep labels consistent. For moderately simple models, I avoid full numbering to save time—and sometimes a little discovery is enjoyable for the builder, as the image shows below. Comment on the model page of 4x4 Mini Off-RoaderThese are some examples of my “Before Start”.Bird LampCipher Helmet LockCyberBrick Tank 2. Diagram & Instructions 2.1 DiagramUse the same CAD software you modeled the parts in to export diagrams. I use Rhinoceros, but any CAD package will work. The advantage is you already have all parts and correct perspectives in the CAD environment.My preferred method in Rhinoceros: export two transparent PNGs from the same viewport—one in Rendered mode (shows realistic color and shading) and one in Pen mode (shows clear edges). Combine them in layout software and set the Pen layer transparency to 40–60% to get images that are both realistic and clear. If you're not a Rhinoceros user, there's no need to import your model files into Rhinoceros. Simply stick to the CAD software you're already using. The key point is to ensure that the diagrams you create closely resemble the real model parts and have clear edges for users to understand.Use the “Capture viewport to file”  command to save a  Rendered mode image with “PNG” format in RhinocerosRendered mode PNG image with transparent backgroundPen mode PNG image with transparent backgroundCombine 2 images in CorelDraw and set the Pen layer transparency to 40–60%  An alternative is to “Make 2-D drawing” and export vector curves (.ai/.dwg) for an IKEA-style look; vectors are editable but lack shading/shadow and require re-export if the viewpoint changes.For highlighting, you can color parts differently to show assembled vs. to-be-assembled parts . As the images show below(Cipher Helmet Lock), all the parts in step 3 are in white in step4, only the to-be-assembled parts are in red. It’s a good way to highlight to-be-assembled parts. But requires a significant amount of time and effort to make diagrams.                2.2 InstructionsStep groups and sequences: Break complex assemblies into major steps and smaller sequences to keep the flow clear. As the image shows below(CyberBrick 4WD Car).Arrows: I model arrows in CAD so they share the same perspective as parts—this clarifies insertion/rotation directions.Shell Lamp V2.0Attention marks and notes: Use bright, consistent markers (I use two orange triangles) to call out cautions or critical details.Camera with Shutter Case for Realme GT8 ProPractical Tips & TradeoffsNumbering every part is precise but costly in time—reserve it for highly complex projects or when part interchangeability is likely.Combining Rendered + Pen images gives the best balance of realism and clarity for complex parts.Color-highlighting is effective but scales poorly without a tool to manage parts and sequences.The purpose of any assembly guide is to help users understand the process clearly, avoid errors, and successfully complete the build. Making high-quality guides is time-consuming but essential for reproducibility. I hope someone can develop better, more user-friendly authoring tools that can simplify this work later. One Last ThingPlease use genuine software during all stages of model creation and assembly guide production—supporting official tools encourages continued development of better, user-friendly tools, doesn’t it? The software I use for model creation and assembly guide production:CorelDRAW Graphics Suite 2021 for WindowsRhinoceros 8 Educational for Windows Thank you for supporting me always. I hope this article can provide some inspiration for your assembly guide production.Salute to Makes!