I have already received several reports about possibly incorrect SFA40 readings, so I want to collect all information in one place and understand how widespread the issue is.We need to determine how many users are seeing consistently elevated HCHO readings. I may release a special diagnostic firmware version that will show additional data:  - whether the HCHO reading is ready or still warming up; - the internal SFA40 measurement status; - basic communication health information; - the sensor module identifier, if available; - the temperature and humidity measured near the SFA40; - the direct HCHO value before it is shown in the UI. Diagnostic beta firmwareA beta firmware build with the SFA40 diagnostic page is available here: DFRobot Gravity SFA40: elevated HCHO readings and diagnostic reports  With this data, we will be able to contact DFRobot/Sensirion with specific evidence. If the issue is confirmed to be related to a module or batch, we can raise it properly with supporting data.As I have already replied in private messages, the current driver implementation follows the standard algorithm from the Sensirion datasheet. At this point, I do not see a conversion error or a clear deviation from the documentation in the firmware. The manufacturer’s specified SFA40 accuracy is ±20 ppb or ±20%. It is also important to note that during the first up to 10 minutes after startup, readings may be unstable, but after warmup they should settle.If you are experiencing this issue, please leave a comment here and include:what stable HCHO readings you see after 15-30 minutes of operation;what filament did you use to print the enclosure;whether you tried placing the device near fresh air / an open window for 30 minutes;whether you tried running Aura without the enclosure, to rule out plastic/glue/enclosure materials as the source;whether you compared the readings with another device or another Aura unit in the same room, if possible.This will help determine whether the issue is caused by the environment, the enclosure, a specific sensor batch, cable/power, or firmware.

Before you DM me — check here first. 😄This post is your go-to place for questions, issues, and feedback about Project Aura AQ. Assembly, firmware, Home Assistant integration, sensors — anything goes. The idea is simple: if you ran into a problem, someone else probably did too. Ask here, and the answer helps everyone.I'll be reading every comment and updating this post with the most common questions and solutions directly — so it becomes a living FAQ over time.  📺 New here? Start with the video. I just released a full overview of Project Aura — features, UI, sensors, fan control, and answers to the most frequently asked questions. Watch it before posting — there's a good chance your question is already answered there.    💬 How to ask a good questionPlease start your comment with a category tag — it helps others find relevant answers quickly:[Assembly] — enclosure, wiring, connectors, pin swap  [Firmware] — flashing, web installer, settings, bugs  [HA/MQTT] — Home Assistant, MQTT discovery, dashboard  [Sensors] — SEN66, SFA30, CO, pressure, RTCAlso include your firmware version when reporting a bug or issue. It saves a lot of back-and-forth.  📦 GitHub — stay updatedYou'll need a GitHub account to keep your Aura up to date — here's why.I had limited time and a limited number of testers during development. Once all of you start running your Auras, new bugs will inevitably surface that I couldn't catch on my own. I'll fix them and publish new releases regularly. Each release will include a ready-to-flash .bin file for OTA update over Wi-Fi — no cables, no IDE. I cover the update process in the video and it'll be in the assembly guide too.To get notified when a new release drops: go to the GitHub project page, click Watch → Custom → Releases. That's it — you'll only get an email when there's something new, no inbox spam.Takes 2 minutes. Worth it.You can also download the GitHub mobile app — and yes, Aura can be flashed directly from your phone too. 📱👉 GitHub: https://github.com/21cncstudio/project_aura  📌 FAQ (Will be updated as common questions come in) 📧 Assembly Instructions: You should have received an email with a link to the assembly instructions ZIP file. As a backup, I've also uploaded it to the model files — click "Download STL/CAD Files" and you'll find the instructions archive there! 📧 STEP files: These STEP files can only be accessed through the crowdfunding project page. Pls go access to the crowdfunding project page: Fulfillment - click "Checkout Rewards". 🆕 SFA40 Formaldehyde Sensor Now Supported!I've added support for the DFRobot SFA40 — the successor to the SFA30!  ⚠️ Pin swap reminder: One connector requires swapping the power pins before assembly. If you skip this step, you may damage your sensors. This is covered in detail in the assembly guide — please read it carefully before connecting anything. 🔄 Back Cover Options: In the original enclosure print files, you'll find 4 different back cover variants. The difference is which optional sensors they accommodate (CO sensor and/or DAC module). Choose the back cover that matches the sensors you're using.  Questions, feedback, ideas — drop them below. 👇

Hey everyone! 👋  Quick reminder: Please leave all your questions and comments right here under this update! It's the only way I can reliably find and answer them. 🙏  📦 Wall-Mount Enclosure — What Do You Think?So... how did it turn out? I think it looks pretty decent!Despite the compact size, I managed to fit all the sensors inside — including the CO sensor and space for a future DAC module (for controlling ventilation fans or even smart lighting).Not bad for something that hangs on the wall, right? 😄 For the upcoming stretch goal enclosures, I'm going to add some visual flair. I think you're going to like what I have in mind. 😏  🧪 CO Sensor Update: DFRobot SEN0466After testing several options, I went with the DFRobot SEN0466 carbon monoxide sensor.It's been integrated into Aura's system and running for 3 days straight now. So far, so good! ✅ By the way, I've updated the standard desktop enclosure design so you won't have to reprint the whole thing if you decide to add a CO sensor or DAC module later.Just swap out the back cover — that's it!  But... there's one annoying thing.The cable situation. 🤦♂️I can't find a Gravity to STEMMA QT cable (JST-PH to JST-SH) shorter than 200mm anywhere. Actually, they basically don't exist except for this one option.Your options:Use the included cable and solder a STEMMA QT connector — takes 5 minutes, pretty straightforwardHunt for a compatible cable — good luck, you'll need itWhy I'm annoyed about the 200mm cable:Longer I2C cables add capacitance and can cause signal integrity issues. Ideally, you'd add pull-up resistors for stability... but let's be honest, nobody is going to do that. 😅I've done everything I can in firmware to compensate, but occasionally (like once every 1-2 hours) there's a tiny touchscreen hiccup. We're talking 0.1% chance you'd even notice — but it drives me crazy because I want everything to work perfectly.(Yes, I have a problem. I know.) 🤓 The Bigger Picture:There aren't really any other good CO sensor options that integrate this cleanly. The SEN0466 isn't cheap (~$60-70), but when we're talking about carbon monoxide detection, I don't think saving $20-30 is worth it.  I'll give the final "go ahead and buy this sensor" confirmation in the next update once I'm 100% confident — but right now it's looking like our best (and only) realistic choice.  Stay tuned for the next update!Questions about the wall-mount or CO sensor? Drop them below! 💬

Project Aura is not just another DIY monitor based on the ESP32. For me, it is an attempt to prove that you can build an industrial-grade device with your own hands that combines simplicity of assembly for a beginner with deep engineering work "under the hood." In this article, I will tell you why I chose this particular hardware platform, how the firmware architecture is structured, why fail-safe algorithms are needed, and how I befriended the device with a smart home.📦 Hardware Platform: No CompromisesWhen designing Aura, I fundamentally refused to use cheap sensor clones. Only components from industry leaders (Sensirion, Bosch, Waveshare). I wanted precision and durability, not a random number generator.Microcontroller and DisplayI chose a powerful combination as the heart of the system:MCU: Waveshare ESP32-S3-Touch-LCD-4.3 (16MB Flash). The huge amount of memory untied my hands: I used the LittleFS file system to store logs, pressure history, and beautiful interface assets.Display: 4.3" RGB LCD with a resolution of 800x480. The image is juicy, the fonts are crisp. The GT911 driver is responsible for the touchscreen — it works responsively, just like on a smartphone.Graphics: I built the entire interface on the LVGL v8.4.0 library with anti-aliasing enabled. By the way, to bypass the known IPC stack overflow problem when initializing a heavy UI, I had to pin the display task (Core 0 Pinning) strictly to the zero core.Sensor ArrayI assembled a "dream team" of sensors in one case:SensorParametersImplementation FeaturesSensirion SEN66T, RH, PM1/2.5/4/10, CO2, VOC, NOxAn industrial "all-in-one" combine. The main plus is the airflow inside the module, optimized by Sensirion engineers.Sensirion SFA30Formaldehyde (HCHO)Optional module. This is the "gold standard" for formaldehyde detection, not a cheap imitation.ℹ️ Note: The SFA30 is fully supported and readily available for purchase. Support for the successor model (SFA40) is already on the project roadmap and will be added upon its release.Bosch BMP580 / DPS310Atmospheric PressureI implemented Dual Pressure Fallback logic: the firmware looks for the BMP580 itself, and if it doesn't find it, it switches to the DPS310.NXP PCF8523RTC (Real Time Clock)Autonomous clock with a CR1220 battery so that the time does not get lost during power outages.  🛒 Bill of Materials (BOM)Below I have gathered the exact list of what is installed in my final prototype. All part numbers are verified personally. You can find them both in local stores and at giants like Adafruit, Digi-Key, or Mouser.Main Board ~$33 Waveshare ESP32-S3-Touch-LCD-4.3 (800x480)Main Sensor ~$60 Sensirion SEN66Adapter for SEN66 ~$6 Adafruit SEN6x Breakout for Sensirion SEN66HCHO Sensor (Optional) ~$55 Seeed Studio Grove - SFA30Barometer ~$8 Adafruit BMP580 (or DPS310 / BMP581)Clock (RTC) ~$7 Adafruit PCF8523I2C Hub ~$6 Adafruit Qwiic / Stemma QT 5 Port HubCapacitor (Power) ~$0.5 Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor - Radial Leaded 10V 470uF 105CCables (Type 1) ~$4 Grove to STEMMA QT / Qwiic / JST SH Cable - 100mm (4 pcs)Cables (Type 2) ~$4 Qwiic/STEMMA QT-Compatible Cable - JST-SH 4-Pin 50mm (4 pcs)Cable (Type 3) ~$1 JST GH 1.25mm Pitch 6 Pin Cable - 100mm longPower Terminal ~$3 Seeed Grove - Screw TerminalFasteners ~$3 Bolts M2.5x6 BHCS Machine Screw (e.g., Bambu Lab Store) - 20 pcsBattery ~$1 CR1220 3V Lithium Coin Cell (for RTC)The full assembly (together with the cool formaldehyde sensor) comes out to around $170-180.⚡ Important Note on the CapacitorI added this part to stabilize the power supply. The ESP32 at peak consumption (WiFi + screen) can cause voltage drops, and the capacitor smooths them out. No soldering required! Just insert its legs into the terminal block along with the power wires. If you can't find exactly the same one (10V 470uF), feel free to take any electrolytic capacitor with a higher voltage or capacitance (for example, 16V 1000uF).💰 An Honest Talk About PriceI am often asked: "Why should I build a project for $170 if there is a ready-made monitor on for $100?"What are you paying for? This is DIY and crowdfunding. The sum of ~$170-180 is the fair market price of high-end hardware that you buy for yourself. These components remain with you. My contribution. The case design, hundreds of hours of firmware debugging, architecture, and instructions are a separate story. By supporting the campaign, you are paying specifically for the results of my labor, not for a reseller's markup. Compare for yourself. Try to find a ready-made device that simultaneously has a Sensirion SEN66, a separate formaldehyde sensor, a huge IPS touchscreen, and full local integration into Home Assistant without clouds. Professional solutions of this level cost completely different money. 🏗️ Software ArchitectureMy Architectural Principles:Isolation: The network doesn't know about the screen, and the sensors don't know about WiFi. Everyone communicates through managers.Asynchrony: No blocking delays in the main loop. Polling sensors or sending MQTT messages should not "freeze" the interface.System Stability: I added periodic monitoring of available RAM to detect resource usage issues early, ensuring the device runs smoothly for weeks without hanging.🛡️ Reliability (Safety Features)I made Aura as a "set it and forget it" device. It must work 24/7.1. Safe Boot & Last Good Config I implemented a dual configuration system: the current config and the known-good config. If the device crashes on boot 5 times in a row (for example, due to incorrect WiFi settings), Safe Boot will trigger, and the settings will roll back. 2. Task Watchdog A watchdog (180 sec) monitors the main threads. If a task hangs, the Watchdog will hard reset the controller. 3. I2C Recovery The I2C bus can be capricious. I wrote an algorithm: at startup or failures, the controller tries to recover the SDA/SCL lines to revive hung sensors. 4. VOC State Persistence VOC sensors learn for days. To avoid losing progress during a reboot, I save the state of the learning algorithm to internal flash memory. Now, after a restart, the sensor recovers in minutes, not hours.🚀 Functional CapabilitiesThe device collects more than 10 parameters. I added data validation to filter out obvious noise and errors before showing the numbers to you.Smart BarometerHistory: A ring buffer of history for 24 hours is stored internally.Forecast: The system calculates the pressure delta for 3 and 24 hours. This really helps predict weather changes or rain.Time ManagementAccuracy: RTC with battery + NTP synchronization every 6 hours.Time Zones: Support for 37 zones via standard POSIX strings (summer/winter time works correctly).🏠 Integration: Home Assistant and MQTTMQTT Auto-discoveryI use Home Assistant myself and know the hassle of manual configuration. Aura does everything itself. Immediately after connecting to the broker, it sends configs, and the following appear in HA:Sensors (T, RH, PM, CO2, VOC, Nitrogen Oxides, Formaldehyde, Pressure)Statuses (WiFi, RTC Battery)Switches (Night Mode, Backlight)Buttons (Calibration, Restart) Data updates every 30 seconds.Data flies out every 30 seconds.🎨 UI/UX: An Interface Pleasant to Look AtI decided to get away from boring tables with numbers.Themes: 12 color schemes + a web editor for your own themes.Night Mode: Automatically dims the screen so as not to shine in your eyes at night.Personalization: °C/°F, LED control, screen timeouts — customize it for yourself.1. Main Dashboard All vital information on one screen. Large indicators for PM2.5, CO2, temperature, and humidity. Color coding helps instantly assess air quality.2. Settings Screen Device control center. Intuitive access to all configurations without needing to connect to a computer.3. Themes Screen Bored with one color? Choose from 12 preset themes. Want something unique? Create a custom theme in the custom editor via the web page.4. WiFi Screen Scan available networks and connect directly from the device screen. No need to hardcode SSID in the firmware.5. MQTT Screen Full setup for Home Assistant integration: broker address, port, login, and password. Connection status is visible immediately.6. Auto Night Mode A bright screen won't disturb your sleep. Set a schedule, and the device will automatically switch to darker colors at night.7. Auto Screen Timeout Save energy and display life. Set a timeout (30s, 1m, 5m) after which the screen turns off. Wakes up with a touch.8. Time and Date RTC clock management. Select your time zone for internet sync or set the time manually.🎯 Stretch Goals and StatusStretch GoalsUsually in crowdfunding, features are unlocked for money. I decided otherwise: a good device should be complete right away. All functionality (sensors, MQTT, themes) is available to you out of the box. My only stretch goal: If we gather a large community, I will sit down to develop alternative case designs.📢 Project StatusRight now, a fully working, assembled prototype is sitting on my desk. I am taking 1-2 weeks for final "combat" tests and polishing the instructions. Subscribe so you don't miss the release of files and videos.ConclusionProject Aura is an example of how, using accessible hardware (ESP32-S3) and the right approach to software, you can make a thing that surpasses commercial analogs. Open source, modularity, and attention to detail are the base on which you can build your ideal monitor. Let's breathe clean air. Together.

LAST UPDATE Hello, MakerWorld Community!First off, a huge thank you to every single one of you. We already have over 700 watchers on the crowdfunding page!!! Honestly, I didn't expect such a response. Your trust has changed my approach: I decided not to rush a release "as is," but to seriously invest in quality and UX to live up to your expectations. Our project will not fall short of top-tier devices in this segment.Today, I’ll share details about major hardware changes, the new "heart" of the system, and our future plans.1. Visual Revolution: 4.3" IPS instead of 3.5" TFTThis is the biggest visual change. We are moving from a 480x320 resolution to a 800x480 IPS 4.3" screen. The difference in person is simply night and day. The camera doesn't fully convey the vibrancy, viewing angles, and font sharpness, but believe me—I never want to go back to the old screen.  I tested two boards with capacitive touch: the Sunton ESP32-8048s043 and the Waveshare ESP32-S3-Touch-LCD-4.3. My choice is the Waveshare. It has a more thoughtful form factor, good wiki, convenient mounts, and a smart connector layout, which is critical for our case design. However, I am still keeping Sunton in mind as an alternative.  Honest talk about the trade-offs: The Waveshare board lacks hardware PWM for smooth brightness adjustment "out of the box." However, this is a calculated compromise. Its advantages - ideal size, good wiki, smart connector layout, and price - far outweigh this limitation. We are solving the "night blindness" issue elegantly via software: I am developing a special "Dark Mode" with color inversion and a muted palette. It looks even cooler than simply lowering the brightness!  2. New LVGL Interface & Backer BonusesWith the new resolution, we need a new UI. I am rewriting the interface using the LVGL library. It will look modern, smooth, and professional. You can see the prototype in the photo.  Open Source vs. Crowdfunding:Basic Version: Fully Open Source code, clean and functional interface. Available to everyone for free.  Premium Version (for Crowdfunding participants): A special firmware version with expanded customization options (color selection, extra themes, extensions). The code for this version will also be available to you (in a private repository)—the Open Source philosophy remains! This Premium version is an exclusive reward for my backers, granting access to advanced customization features while ensuring the core project remains open and free for everyone. 3. Sensors: Switching to Sensirion SEN66During testing, I faced a reliability issue with the popular SGP41 sensor. I purchased three separate units, and one of them failed to work correctly. This highlights a major problem in the DIY world: when buying individual breakout modules, it is all too easy to run into counterfeits or components with poor quality control. I don't want you to face this lottery.A big thanks to @MobZ in the comments for the tip about the Sensirion SEN55. I studied the documentation and realized - this is the solution we need to ensure consistency. In the updated version, we will use the Sensirion SEN66. It is an new "All-in-One" module from a top-tier brand:Temperature & HumidityCO2VOC & NOx IndicesPM1.0, PM2.5, PM4.0, and PM10It is already running in my prototype, and the stability of the readings is impressive. The quality is top-notch. 4. "Heavy Artillery": Formaldehyde (HCHO)The SEN66 is beautiful, but it lacks a formaldehyde sensor (this feature is only in the SEN69C series, which isn't even on sale yet). By popular demand, I am adding optional support for the separate Sensirion SFA30 module. This is the undisputed "King" in this budget range. It is on its way to me for testing. This makes Project Aura a real desktop laboratory. The sensor will be optional - if you don't need it, you simply don't connect it.5. No-Solder AssemblyThe transition to Sensirion modules and the Waveshare board brings us closer to the main goal—No Soldering Assembly. I am 90% sure the final version can be assembled just by plugging in connectors, making it perfect for beginners—like a building block set. I will confirm this exactly once the stable final version is assembled.What's Next?Sensirion SFA30: Wiring, coding, and testing. RTC & Pressure: I ordered an external I2C Real Time Clock module (PCF8523) so data isn't lost on reboot/power loss, and high-precision barometers (DPS310 and BMP580). You will be able to connect whichever one is available to you without changing the code. More on this in the next post. Case: Due to the new 4.3" screen, the case will be completely redesigned. It's too early to talk about other case variations; I need to finish the main one first. Home Assistant: Yes, I think MQTT support will definitely be included. I understand this is critical for many of you. I haven't dived deep into it yet, but I'll try to share more in the next article.Question to the Community:I'm an engineer, not a marketer. Could you suggest which resources, forums, or subreddits would be appropriate to publish a detailed technical article about the project to attract like-minded people? I would be grateful for links and advice! Thank you for staying with the project. Follow my profile so you don't miss the new updates!

Hello, MakerWorld Community!  🔥 BREAKING NEWS: Major Hardware Upgrade!LAST UPDATE  Important: This post is the start of a conversation. I am still polishing the code and design. If you have questions about circuit design, component selection, logic, or ideas for new case designs — write in the comments, I will answer everyone! Component Status & Ongoing Testing The hardware configuration of this project is not final yet. I’m actively testing alternative ESP32 boards with IPS displays, as well as the Sensirion SEN66 sensor, which could help eliminate some common DIY issues such as complex wiring, soldering, and software setup. The goal is to find the most reliable, beginner-friendly, and long-term maintainable solution. Once the final hardware choices are locked in, I’ll publish a detailed update explaining the decision and the trade-offs involved. I am preparing to launch Project Aura — an Open Source air quality monitoring station. Before publishing the print files and firmware, I want to invite you "under the hood" of the project and share the engineering decisions behind it. In this project, I set myself an ambitious goal: to create a device with the accuracy of a professional laboratory instrument that a beginner can replicate in a single evening.Today I will tell you why I chose this specific hardware, how the firmware logic works (spoiler: there are watchdogs, ring buffers, and sprites), and why CO2 is not just numbers on a screen.1. Hardware: Why "All-in-One"?The heart of the project is the ESP32-3248S035 board (often found under brands like Sunton or LCDWiki).Many will ask: "Why a TFT screen and not a trendy IPS?" Let's be realistic. The viewing angles of the current 3.5" TFT screen are not perfect. However, this board has two killer features that outweigh the downsides:Price: The entire module (powerful dual-core ESP32 + 3.5" touchscreen + drivers) costs about $18. Simplicity: This is a "2-in-1" solution. You don't need to solder 12 wires to connect the screen and touch panel, or struggle with pinouts and libraries. Everything is already assembled at the factory.For connecting sensors, the board already has JST 4-pin (I2C) and UART connectors broken out. Effectively, assembly is reduced to plugging in ready-made modules rather than weaving a "web" of wires. A Look into the Future (IPS Version): I understand that many want a perfect picture. Right now, a similar board but with a 4.3-inch IPS screen (800x480 resolution) is on its way to me. It costs about $8-12 more. I will test it, and if the image quality justifies the price, I will adapt the interface and case for it.2. Sensors: The Dream TeamI categorically refused to use cheap analogs. Inside is "heavy artillery" from Sensirion and Bosch. Here is what each module is responsible for:CO2: Sensirion SCD41 (Switzerland)The Tech: This is a true photoacoustic NDIR sensor. It measures the resonance of carbon dioxide molecules.Why you need it: To avoid being a "zombie." At CO2 levels above 1200 ppm, the brain starts to work poorly, and drowsiness sets in. The sensor will tell you when it's time to open a window to restore productivity.In Firmware: I implemented smart smoothing (moving average of 5 samples), but with a "Jump handling" algorithm: if the CO2 level changes drastically (e.g., you breathed on the sensor), the buffer resets for an instant reaction. Pressure compensation using data from the BME280 is also used.Dust: Sensirion SPS30The Tech: Laser Scattering sensor with a high-quality fan and contamination protection for the optics (lifespan >10 years).Why you need it: It sees what the eye cannot — PM2.5 (microparticles that penetrate the blood) and PM10 (allergens, pollen). This is critically important for allergy sufferers and city dwellers.Chemistry: Sensirion SGP41The Tech: MOX sensor (Metal-Oxide) measuring VOC and NOx indices.Why you need it: This is an "artificial nose." It detects smells you might miss (fumes from new furniture, varnish, household chemicals) or combustion products (gas stove, street exhaust).Climate: Bosch BME280The Tech: The industry standard for measuring temperature, humidity, and pressure.Why you need it:Humidity: Dry air in winter kills immunity and damages skin.Pressure: Helps predict migraines for weather-sensitive people.In Firmware: The system stores a 24-hour pressure history in a ring buffer and calculates trends (3h and 24h). If the pressure drops too fast (>7 hPa/3h) — prepare for a storm or a headache.3. Firmware: Logic & UXThe firmware is written in C++ (Arduino IDE) using the TFT_eSPI library.Flicker-Free UI: I actively use Sprites. When data updates, the screen does not blink; only the changed numbers are redrawn.Two Themes: Light and Dark (switchable via the settings menu).Non-Volatile Memory: All settings (brightness, touch calibration, temperature offset) are saved in NVS (Preferences) and are not lost when powered off.Ambilight: A rear RGB LED mirrors the general air status with color (Green/Yellow/Red), so you can see the air quality even with your peripheral vision.4. Web Installer & DiagnosticsI know that installing software is the hardest part for beginners. So I removed the need to download the Arduino IDE, libraries, and drivers.You go to the project website (via Chrome/Edge).Connect the board via USB.Click one button: "Install". Done.Web Serial Monitor I also added a web-based diagnostic tool. If something doesn't work after assembly (for example, you forgot to connect a wire to the CO2 sensor) or mixed up pins, you open the console right in the browser and see a clear error message: "SCD41 not found, check wiring". This turns debugging from a torture into a simple process.Project StatusRight now, I am finishing polishing the interface and writing the documentation. The prototype is already working on my desk and looks great. I would be happy to hear your opinion in the comments: what questions about assembly do you have? What would you like to know more about in future posts? Breathe clean air!

On Halloween I rewatched “The Thing” and got hooked again on those rugged arctic snowcats. I thought, “Winter is coming — time to build my own version on a CyberBrick base.”  That was the starting point for my first Arctic Snowcat. I wanted something compact, utilitarian and believable, sitting low on the tracks with a real expedition vibe. For the Arctic version I took inspiration from vintage machines of the Spryte 1200 era — no brand ties, just the atmosphere of polar stations, crisp snow and long winter twilights.  I printed it in PLA and spent a lot of time tuning the colors. For the “chrome” look, PLA Silk+ Silver worked perfectly for rims and small accents. Instead of plain black I used PLA Metal Iron Gray Metallic: it softens reflections, hides layer lines and makes the details feel more industrial. In the model page I listed all the filaments so you can match the palette one-to-one. The Snowcat is designed for the CyberBrick base. The fun twist is that the tracks are driven by two continuous-rotation servos. They are strong enough for this size, easy to install and make wiring very straightforward. Control is “tank style”: left stick = left track, right stick = right track. I use the standard CyberBrick joystick, and the front and rear lights actually light up. Santa’s Snowcat – when the expedition goes festive After finishing the Arctic Snowcat and seeing it on the bench, I thought: “If this works so well… why not make a Christmas version for Santa?” That’s how Santa’s Snowcat was born — similar tracked base, but with a completely different mood. Santa supposedly gave the reindeer a day off and rolled out a CyberBrick rig.)  The body kit turns the base into a red holiday truck with snowflake panels, bolt-on antlers and working headlights/taillights. It still drives like a real tracked vehicle (left stick / right stick)I provide two versions of Santa’s Snowcat: Pro and Simplified.Pro version The white cab details and the red panels are merged into single parts (cab + white trim, cargo bed walls). This allowed me to use Fuzzy Skin exactly where I wanted and keep the cab rivets white straight from the printer. It looks awesome, but it takes more time to print, especially on single-nozzle printers. If you have a dual-extruder setup or you don’t mind longer print times, go for this one.Simplified version Here all white elements are separate pieces (you might need a bit of glue in a few places). The cargo bed is split into several parts so the whole build only requires one filament swap, which is very friendly for single-nozzle machines. Visually it’s very close to the Pro version, but much easier to manage on simpler printers.For Santa’s Snowcat I printed in PLA again:Maroon Red and Matte Ivory White for the bodyIron Gray Metallic for the baseBronze for the antlers and some trim piecesThe 3MF project includes all important slicer settings, including the Fuzzy Skin areas, so you can basically load it and hit print. As with the Arctic version, you’ll need the CyberBrick kit and a 9g Continuous Rotation Servo (360°) for the drive system. A PDF guide and a bill of materials are included on the model page.Why I like this platformMy goal with both snowcats was to build a small “ecosystem” on top of the CyberBrick platform: tracked chassis, multiple bodies and seasonal themes. The servo-driven tracks keep the mechanics simple and leave room for lights, a future plow module and maybe even FPV or a camera sled later.If you decide to build one of these, I’d love to see your version. Load the bed with tiny presents, drive it under the tree and enjoy winter in style!

Hello Makers! I've been following this community for a while and have been incredibly inspired by your amazing projects. Now, I'm ready to introduce my first Crowdfunding project, which I've been working on for the past few months — Garden Races!This is a complete 3D-printable kit that allows anyone to create their own all-wheel-drive RC truck and an exciting off-road track. My goal is to make the world of RC modeling an accessible and fun hobby for everyone who loves to create.Why you'll love it:Low Requirements: You only need a 3D printer with a minimum build volume of 180x180 mm.Simple Assembly: The model is designed to use CyberBrick electronics and is easy to put together.Family Fun: It's a great way to spend time with friends and kids, turning your garden or a park into a racing arena. The project is currently in the "coming soon" phase. If you're interested, please visit the project page and follow it so you don't miss the launch!Garden RacesYour follow is very important to me. It will help show that there's community interest in the project and will give me the motivation to perfect it.