zackza

cover

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shroud (tight fit, use hot air blow dryer for 30 secs)

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Added new built in pegs to the little half circle fasteners so you do not need to use extra m3 screws up&nbsp;subtracted some material in the two m3 screw/bolt holes on teh side for those fasteners on the end of the shroud, so you can use much shorter M3x3 bolts I believe. You could even add a nut to the half circle fasteners if you really did want but honestly its not like its going to come out that way, and I would rather it does break a small replacable plastic part than bend the tank! Although i will ned to think about this and adding an m3 nut in the half circle like i used to have, but theres only enough room for really an M2, and even then it has to be in the very center to avoid scraping the metal and so far my syystem with M3 x whatever boilt youy want into plastic printed threads seems to work because its just about keeping that half circle fastener in place , althouygh it maybe really should have a small nut and i should open up a larger segment for said nut? Well, if it aint broke dont fix it i guess so ill leave it liek this for now&nbsp;if you want to use longer m3x6 and above or whatever you use on V4 just use v4 and maybe print the two half circle fasteners from this seperatly if you want to save on bolts. You honestly dont even need the bolts on the half circle fasteners, its just a courtesy because they get stuck in theer unless you take the shroud out and its just to ensure they dont get lost&nbsp;Anyway I SHOULD just look up ways to add a COMPLETELy printed compliant mechanism spring pushed LATCH so it can simply clamp those two pieces, yes yes, ill have it gop UP or into the left and right side of the pic rail shroud… those little half circles will just be spring loaded or compliant mechanism loaded yes that makes perfect sense! &nbsp;OK so V6 should be a Fully print in place or at least printed so you can attach these two half circle fasteners, clip them in with filament maybe and then they can keep the whole thing in place,a nd you can have a PULL TAB to push them up and out of teh way to actually remove the shroud! Ah i can see it in my head, it will use an S shaped spring printed on each side of the back of teh shroud, with teh half circles suspended by then, on each side, with the back ends tapered so when you slide it in, they get pushed left and right out of teh way and then snap back into place at the end when the shroud has pased through completeley, and two pull tabs will allow us to pull them apart to pull the shroud off.

V5, shorter M3 bolts, 0.28mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill

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tight fit, fixed it so it slides on much better, and wont bend anything when trying to squeeze on. should slide on now.

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 25% infill

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Adapter to prevent any wobble or forward movement.

ADAPTER to prevent wobble! 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 25% infill

screw in end caps to hold from going forward past tank

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So, its self explanatory, just use M3x6 screws/bolts and place them behind the tank, in the little circle segment shaped space, it slides in 9so add another m screw so you can pull it out, and now screw in the bolts from the bottom or top hole, the bottom for sure lines up best. You can do it on the other side now for extra strength and you can even go in from the top for extra tightness of the whole shroud. But honestly just the two bottom screw holes in the back will be fine!  dont go all the way in! be careful! Just enough to grip. And if you use no little semi circle space filler thing, you risk scratching your notos with a screw so make sure you have that popped in before screwing! It ended up working really nicely. (Let me know if you think the little semi circle filler pieces need to be tweaked or made a little bigger or smaller or if theres any slack, as it should be nice and tight when you screw in both sides and it doesnt move at all!&nbsp;this eliminates my old system which used either a mag holder to prevent it from moving forward, then I made a special contraption that holds both the rail of the notos on top and the shroud&#39;s side rail, and THIS new option is the latest v3 that takes up teh least space and filament and seems the most professional so far!  I recommend this profile I fixed of an angled foregrip to go with this shroud now<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer ugc" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/771348-ar15-foregrip-13-picatinny?from=search#profileId-1172715">https://makerworld.com/en/models/771348-ar15-foregrip-13-picatinny?from=search#profileId-1172715</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

VERSION 3, screw stoppers behind tank, no need for external

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best so far, one single m3-6 or 3-8 bolt or screw goes inside the recessed picatinny rain now, no more needing two on each side at weird diagonal angles.&nbsp;now you slide one half circle in each side and just screw in the m3 screw or bolt and it all stays flush with teh rail below the groove etc all even steven now. &nbsp;Also the supports now come off PERFECTLy so easily, only have to clip out a few supports at the very bottom i guess which can even be fixed, it all comes right off so nicely. almost perfect. &nbsp;search Printables for the Picatinny Rail Cover with fuzzy grip, and makerworld (check my profiles) for the angled forgrip

V4, New In-Rail Fastener, 0.2mm layer, 5 walls, 25% infill

added a hole to allow lock in place. . snug fit.&nbsp;update: v3 version available with special half circle shaped adapters to screw into back of shroud behind tank to allow for locking in place!

picatinny Rail Sleeve for Umarex Notos

ASIA

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