The GeneriBox - A Customizable Lightbox

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The GeneriBox - A Customizable Lightbox

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Print Profile(6)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1
A1 mini

GeneriBox Face Examples (PLA)
GeneriBox Face Examples (PLA)
Designer
6.2 h
4 plates
4.9(12)

GeneriBox Bases (PLA)
GeneriBox Bases (PLA)
Designer
11.1 h
4 plates
4.9(12)

A1 MINI BASE - 0.28mm
A1 MINI BASE - 0.28mm
Designer
7.9 h
3 plates
5.0(4)

A1 MINI FACE - 0.2mm
A1 MINI FACE - 0.2mm
Designer
2.7 h
2 plates
5.0(3)
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Released

Description

MORE UPDATES! (20240513)

I've uploaded a v9 design to both it's own folder in the raw files as well as a print profile, which is ~8.5"x7.5" (224x199mm) in outer dimensions and uses the tried-n-true stand-offs that for a D1 Mini v3 and AOD4184, the same as I embed in other designs and document in the Light Box Upgrade

 

UPDATED DESIGNS! (20231123)

I've added new STEP, 3MF, and Profiles for the A1 Mini! The original GeneriBox measures 224x130mm and would not fit on the A1 Mini, so I've made a new version that is a 45mm tall by 174mm square, snugly fitting on the entirety of the A1 Mini build plate. Included is the SP110E hole, a snap-in USB-C insert, and a blank base. Faces include a Bambu Lab logo and a blank plate. My example Mechanicus logo was printed with an SVG and made entirely in Studio.

 

We now return to our regular description 😁

 

 

I'm happy to share the star of my latest tutorial video, the GeneriBox!
 

I started this project with the goal of making a moderately sized universal light box body that could easily change faces without the need for screws, adhesives, or other such things.

Key Features

  • One corner of the box has been recessed to provide an area to hide power cables. It allows cables to be bent out of the way and the box is able to be used either upright or on it's side, hanging on a wall from the integrated keyholes or free-standing on a desk/table.
  • An included (optional) light reflector. Simply print “base-reflector” in a light or shiny material (I really like silk silver for this) to help fully illuminate the entire box.
  • Easy to remove faces use a small lip with retention bars to snap the face plate in and out. I've printed several in PLA+ and they not only work perfectly but hold up to repeated changes without issue.
  • I've created several templates for the most common power and controller combinations I use. STEP files are included to make your own.
  • A faux-bias light effect from a translucent element in wall.

Included Profiles

GeneriBox Face has a blank template as well as a Bambu Lab face, a FETH IT face, as well as a Wumpscut face.

GeneriBox Base includes multiple choices for power how you want to power your light box (detailed below).

 

I suggest PLA Tough for these boxes (I print all mine in eSun PLA+). You only need black and white, however other colors come in handy. I strongly suggest a translucent/transparent material for the base accent wall, even better if it's a glow-in-the-dark (I've always used Hatchbox GitD Green).

Customization

All you need to do is edit the face blank to have whatever designs you'd like on it. You can do this in your favorite CAD application (and we'll see about sign maker) by cutting out your artwork from the face and extruding a 0.6mm replacement in whatever translucent material (usually white PLA) that you'd like! I've included a few basic examples in the print profile.

 

I really like using Glow in the Dark PLA for the translucent accent wall, however this is not mandatory. It can be printed with translucent or “natural” PLA to the same effect (I used ‘transparent’ PLA in my Fifth Element box). You can also print it with the same material as the rest of your walls if you do not desire this effect at all.

Construction

Constructing the completed box itself is not a particularly involved task. I've provided four different base templates:

  • SP110E - for this box, tear the shell off an SP110E ARGB controller and use some good double-sided tape to stick it down inside the provided alignment pegs. No soldering required with this version! Works great with 5mm WS2812B LED strips.
  • 5.5x2.1 Only - this version has a simple 7.8mm hole to mount a standard 5.5x2.1 DC jack. Solder the jack to your strip and you're done.
  • 5.5x2.1 + Switch - uses the same 5521 DC jack but also includes a cutout for a micro SPST power switch. One extra step involved running +DC through the switch before connecting to your strip.
  • USB-C + Switch - this version includes a cutout for a USB-C female breakout board and a SPST switch. Same as the 5521, just soldering wires to a PCB instead of leads, but with a cleaner more professional look, I think.
  • I'm personally fond of COB LEDs for mono lighting, but 5mm WS2812B LED strips work great as well. As the goal of this box is easily changeable faces, I'd encourage the ARGB kit so the lighting can be dynamically changed to whatever face you may install.

WARNING: check the width of your LED strips! While every COB LED I have fits fine, many SMD strips (like WS2812B or RGB 5050's) might be too wide. There is 8.6mm clearance between the top of the alcove and bottom of the accent wall. If you choose to print the accent wall in opaque then this restriction doesn't apply.

UPDATE: I've added a 45mm tall base that has a clearance of 13.6mm for RGB FCOB LEDs. The STEP is in the files section.

 

Also as a follow-up, a quick video on how to customize your own faces

Comment & Rating (55)

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Print Profile
GeneriBox Face Examples (PLA)
great upload worked awsome
The designer has replied
1
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Dude, that one came out nice!
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Replying to @RevHazlett :
Thanks mate your a legend
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Print Profile
GeneriBox Bases (PLA)
great print
The designer has replied
1
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Love it!
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Print Profile
GeneriBox Bases (PLA)
(Edited)
1
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Print Profile
A1 MINI BASE - 0.28mm
(Edited)
1
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Do I solder the power switch to the CC1/2 connections or the D+/- on the USB breakout board?
The designer has replied
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Positive (red) to VBUS. Ground (black) to GND. For COB LEDs: From the board I take ground directly to the strip, and pass VBUS (+5V) to either pin of the switch, then from the other pin of the switch to the 5V on the strip. If you are embedding a controller, red should be the +5V lead and you can attach that to the switch, and connect the black lead directly to GND on the board.
(Edited)
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Replying to @RevHazlett :
Thank you for both your time and the reply. Ah, so it's inline like a normal toggle switch. I read the description as the SPST switch and lights both being wired directly to the USB-C board. I'm familiar with basic wiring but, not circuit boards.
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Replying to @scottgarrettdru :
The little breakout is useful for different projects and is much more firmly seated than the snap-in USB-C connectors. If you were setting something like an ESP32 inside the box you could connect the data pins to be able to program it, for example. D pins are data, CC pins are for sink/source identification (part of the USB-C standard). https://community.silabs.com/s/article/what-s-the-role-of-cc-pin-in-type-c-solution
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Great upload and tutorials on the process. I am working on building out a larger version, but am running into a snag. I was able to easily change the dimensions of the box itself, but am unable to easily change the dimensions of the face. Any suggestions on this would help. Size with be 7.5" x 8.5".
The designer has replied
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If you're working with my (honestly sloppy) F3D, start by updating the "Bawks" sketch. Honestly I didn't make it parametric like I should have... I've learned a few things since then. I'll upload a new one in a minute!
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I'm uploading a new F3D for you with a few tweaks, as well as a new profile with a this version. Should be live in just a bit!
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Print Profile
GeneriBox Face Examples (PLA)
I made some custom boxes/faces for my daughter, she absolutely loves them, thank you!
The designer has replied
1
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Glad to hear it!
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I found your tutorial video on YouTube. I love how detailed you were in explaining everything and the thought that went into the design including the multiple connectors. Thank you for sharing and keep up the great work!
The designer has replied
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Glad you found it informative! I'm working on trying to get more tutorial and tips-n-tricks style content together across the spectrum for printing. I honestly feel like I need to make another video already just to incorporate the most recent little tweaks to printing profiles. It's an ever-evolving process!
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Hey there. I will be using this design in the future, but am working on something custom for my brother currently. I am going to use the controller and LEDs you used, but was wondering if you can give me an idea on what power supply you are using? I saw the one from the same LED company but wasn’t sure if you had a different one that you preferred. Thanks!
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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I found some... BTF-Lighting I think. 5V 2A with a 5.5x2.1 connector. Else if you're using USB-C I just use old phone chargers that are >1.5A capacity. Double-check the power demands of your LEDs (the manufacturer should tell you watts per meter) to make sure you don't under-supply it and you're golden!
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so I'm very new to 3d printing as in I owned it for less then a month and tring to make my own light box is really giving me a issue, can I contact you for help I've been trying YouTube videos and still can't figure it out.
The designer has replied
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I'm happy to help, feel free to shoot a DM here. You might also want to ask the hive mind either in our Facebook group or Discord server (I'm always poking around there) https://www.facebook.com/groups/multicolor/ https://discord.gg/invite/KJ8ZAFTDxy
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