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PoopKeyCap Ver.Artisan

Print Profile(3)

All
X1 Carbon
H2D Pro
A1
H2D
X2D
H2C
P1S
P1P
P2S
A1 mini
X1
A2L
H2S
X1E

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Designer
1.2 h
1 plate
4.8(40)

0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill
Designer
18 min
1 plate
4.8(23)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill - 0.4 Nossil
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill - 0.4 Nossil
10 min
1 plate

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
1451
2887
109
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969
497
Released 

Description

First of all

This model is created based on the wonderful idea from the following link. I pay my respects.

Spinning top mold 陀螺模具 by 潦草小狗爱吃雪糕

https://makerworld.com/en/models/437241

 

Related models are available!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/481189

 

 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/473846

[New Information]

For those who are concerned about layer lines, try printing with the mold tilted at a 45-degree angle.

This can eliminate the steps on the top surface. Give it a try!

What is this ?

This PoopKeyCap is designed to repurpose purge material (Poop) and support material generated by 3D printers into keycaps.

The mold is printed with PETG, and the stem, made with a 0.2mm nozzle, is embedded into the heated and kneaded PLA through insert molding.

How to use

Print

Please print the mold with PETG, using at least 6 wall layers and at least 5 top layers.

If you are using Bambu Studio, select the 0.2mm Strength setting.

Please print the stem with PLA using a 0.2mm nozzle.

It was difficult to achieve a good fit for the key switch with a 0.4mm nozzle. However, it's not impossible with a 0.4mm nozzle, so feel free to give it a try.

Insert the printed stem into the male mold. Insert it in the direction where the chamfered edges align.

Applying a release agent

Please apply a release agent to female mold.

Wipe off any excess release agent.

Use the wiped paper to apply the release agent to the male mold and other parts.(Do not apply to stem.)

Weighing out Poops

You need 3.5g Poops. (in case of PLA)

Heating PLA

Heat the PLA to around 230°C using a soldering hot plate or an oven.

Using a cup-shaped silicone mold is convenient.

If you use a hot plate, covering it with aluminum foil will help it melt faster.

For quicker melting and to achieve a nice marbled pattern, it is also recommended to flatten the PLA with a spatula.

Compression molding

Form the melted PLA into a sphere inside the silicone mold.

Once it has cooled slightly, you can also form it into a sphere using leather gloves.

The important thing at this stage is to ensure it is thoroughly shaped into a sphere to remove any air bubbles.

Once the PLA is in the mold, compress it using the mold. Hand pressure is sufficient.

Using a vise or similar tool can cause the mold to adhere too tightly, making it difficult to remove keycap and potentially damaging the mold.

Demolding

Once the mold has cooled sufficiently, demold the keycap.

Using a utility knife can make it easier to remove, but be careful to avoid injury.

If it's difficult to demold with a utility knife, there are demolding protrusions that you can grip with pliers and pull to remove.

Finishing

Wipe off the release agent and remove any burrs using nippers or a file.

It is also a good idea to sand the entire surface to remove any layer lines.

Using thin-blade nippers for plastic models is recommended as they can cleanly cut off burrs.

Enjoy!

Membership

If you would like to sell keycaps made using this model, please subscribe to the membership.

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License

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This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.