Spinning top mold

Spinning top mold

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Filament Purge

Print Profile(5)

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A1
P1S
P1P
X1 Carbon
X1E
X1
A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
Designer
2.9 h
1 plate
4.8(139)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill - for A1 mini
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill - for A1 mini
3.1 h
1 plate
4.9(83)

ABS Profile - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
ABS Profile - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
2 h
1 plate
4.6(28)

0.2mm layer, 7 walls, 50% infill
0.2mm layer, 7 walls, 50% infill
2.6 h
1 plate
4.6(14)
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Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

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This is a mold for making spinning tops from PLA filament purge. The tops made with this mold are very colorful and spin well. I printed the mold with PETG at 100% infill and did not need to use supports (PC might work even better).

 

What you will need:

  • An unused oven
  • A silicone mat (it's easier to flip and roll the melted PLA into a ball on a silicone mat than on a metal baking tray)
  • PLA filament purge
  • A 3M respirator or N95 mask (the fumes from melting PLA in the oven are stronger, so please protect yourself)
  • Work gloves
  • Tongs
  • Pliers
  • A digital scale

Process:

1. Accurately weigh 6g of PLA filament purge and place it in the oven. Preheat the oven to 200-230°C and heat the filament purge for approximately 5 minutes.

2. Use tongs and pliers to shape the melted PLA into a ball. Evenly folded patterns will look better.

3. Place the shaped plastic into the mold and press the mold firmly.

4. After approximately 3 minutes, open the mold and remove the top. If the top is difficult to remove, use pliers to take it out.

“Twisting and shaking the mold after it has cooled completely can aid in part release. I recently tried using a mold release agent (spray), and it has been very effective in ensuring smooth part separation. 20240512”

(translate from Google Gemini)

 

 

This is a mold for making spinning tops from PLA filament purge. The tops made with this mold are very colorful and spin well. I printed the mold with PETG at 100% infill and did not need to use supports (PC might work even better).

 

You will need: An unused oven, a silicone mat (it's easier to flip and roll the melted PLA into a ball on a silicone mat than on a metal baking tray), PLA filament purge, a 3M respirator or N95 mask (the fumes from melting PLA in the oven are stronger, so please protect yourself), work gloves, tongs, pliers, and a digital scale.

 

Molding process:

 

1. Place 6g (please weigh accurately) of PLA filament purge in the oven, preheat the oven to 200-230°C and heat the filament purge for about 5 minutes (preheat the oven).

 

 

2. Use tongs and pliers to shape the melted PLA into a ball (evenly folded patterns will look better).

 

 

3. Place the shaped plastic into the mold and press the mold firmly.

 

 

 

4. After about 3 minutes, open the mold and take out the spinning top. If it is difficult to remove, use pliers to take it out.

 

 

“Twisting and shaking the mold after it has cooled completely can aid in part release. I recently tried using a mold release agent (spray), and it has been very effective in ensuring smooth part separation. 20240512”

 

Comment & Rating (540)

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You are an absolute genius
151
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Wow, I have never seen MakerWorld reply to anyone yet
28
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Replying to @APizzaGod :
until now
10
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Replying to @APizzaGod :
lol
1
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Boosted
After printing the model, first make a mold for the mold using resin, then use plaster to make a mold of the mold. After heating and curing, it does not stick to the plaster, but the effect is not as good if the heating is not even. The mold works fine 😊
The designer has replied
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4
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That's great! Using plaster of Paris as a mold means, in theory, all thermoplastic materials can be recycled, right? I'm curious, how strong are plaster molds?
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1
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Replying to @lcxg :
The strength seems fine, it didn't have any cracks or chips after being dropped once. The shop I bought it from said it's 8.5 hardness 😊
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1
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Replying to @VIshun :
👍
1
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So the ht110 worked and finally we have the first duck from petg. It was pretty funny.
The designer has replied
4
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That looks great.I've never used this material before.
0
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Replying to @lcxg :
This material as petge Cannot be used because it would combine with petg. You would connect with ABS, but one of the materials that is pla and you won't connect is ht110, which can withstand even that temperature. I tried the pet bottle but they just wait and the rest burns
0
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Replying to @zoomerrrrr :
👍👍👍
0
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First ones worked perfectly, then they started to clog the vent.
The designer has replied
3
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The model might not be cooling down properly.
0
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The vent should be at the top.
0
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Replying to @lcxg :
yeah mine didn't cool properly and the vent clogged.. any idea on how to clear it? was thinking of putting the mold in the oven at 50°c to soften the pla?
0
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I used LLM to translate the introduction of the project. 我使用LLM翻译了一下项目的介绍。这里没法像GitHub那样提交拉取请求。如果作者需要,可以直接使用以下翻译: This is a mold for making a gyroscope using waste PLA filaments. The gyroscope produced has a beautiful color and spins well. I printed the mold with 100% PETG fill, without the need for any support (PC may produce better results). What you'll need: an unused oven, a silicone mat (needed to fold and clump the melted PLA, which can be difficult to manage on a metal baking tray), waste PLA filaments, a 3M respirator or N95 mask (melting PLA in the oven can produce strong odors, so please take proper safety measures), work gloves, a tray lifter, pliers, and an electronic scale. Steps for Mold Pressing: 1. Place 6g (please weigh accurately) of waste PLA filaments into the oven and heat it at 200~230℃ for approximately 5 minutes (make sure to preheat the oven). 2. Use the tray lifter and pliers to clump the melted PLA into a ball (folding it evenly will result in a more attractive texture). 3. Place the clumped plastic into the mold and firmly press it. 4. After approximately 3 minutes, open the mold and remove the gyroscope. If it's difficult to demold, you can use the pliers to pull out the gyroscope.
12
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill - for A1 mini
worked out perfectly, printed some with 0.08 LH to get a smoother finish. awesome idea to recycle the waste as gifts or freebies
5
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👍👍👍
0
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don’t know what I’m doing wrong tbh, I bought a fine measuring scale just for this, but somehow the topper part isn’t as long as it should be, also the second try I got a big gap in the spinner and still the top isn’t long enough. is 6g really the exact amount? am I doing something wrong while pressing? how far should the mold fit together when pressed? is there a video for the right handling?
The designer has replied
1
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This may be due to insufficient pressure. After the molten plastic is poured in, you can step on the mold to increase the pressure. The gap should be around 1mm.
5
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Replying to @lcxg :
but isn’t the vent then blocked when it step on it? 🙈
0
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Replying to @ShortyTHEone :
Under normal circumstances, 6g molten PLA will not reach the vent. If it does, it can still be demolded after cooling.
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 7 walls, 50% infill
It tried it and struggled a little bit getting the Spinner out. That was my fault but i would suggest adding a BB in the bottom mold to allow the spinner to spin more freely. Just a Thought. Great Job.
5
Reply
what type of BB do you use
0
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😍 super!
The designer has replied
5
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I like this color.
0
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Boosted
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 100% infill
So cool!! I’ve printed this mold by PC at 0.08mm pitch.
4
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You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.

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