Search models, users, collections, and posts

Breakwater Bronco Build for SCX24, Ascent18, TRX4M

IP Report

Print Profile(1)

All
A1
H2D Pro
P1S
H2D
A1 mini
X1
P2S
P1P
X2D
X1E
X1 Carbon
H2C
H2S
A2L

0.16mm layer, 5 walls, 100% infill
0.16mm layer, 5 walls, 100% infill
Designer
31.5 h
16 plates
5.0(3)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
97
223
34
13
147
41
Released 

Description

Boost Me (for free)

Love contributing to the crawler community!

This is a "builders' kit so bear with me…lol. 

M2 screws used to attach skid, rails and tube chassis. M1.6 for rear chassis/rails attachment. M1.4 for the rest. I recommend drilling a hole larger than the screw size on the frame everywhere they pass through NOT WHERE THEY SCREW INTO (i.e. 1.5mm hole for M1.4 screw). Grille is screwed from inside but can glued if preferred. Bumper brackets attach via top hole with screw from inside going into frame rail and one from outside frame rail going through bracket into bumper mount. Third bracket hole rearward is for bumper mount locator post.  Bumper bracket is for any scx24 bumper mount, if none is wanted, use a round brace to connect the frame rails. Used 8mm chrome panel indicator LEDs for headlights. Used 0402 LEDs (orange and red) for running lights and taillights. Install taillight housings with E6000, then drill hole big enough for wire, secure led, then glue on clear lens. Wire channel on tailgate to protect them along with centered and recessed place for resistor. Wire channels to run wires out of the way of harm located under hood (glue in place, I use 30ga wire) and behind grille. Pogo-pin connector used to supply power from chassis to body for easy body removal.

Magnets are 10x5x2mm, glue in. (I used super strong 7lb magnets from amazon)

 

Windshield screws in from underneath, 3 center screws first then the 2 outside angled ones.

Used .5mm Lexan for windshield, trace with supplied window template.

Used CA glue for wipers and mirror.

Interior fits snug ("snaps" in) and will stay in place without glue once installed. It will probably need to be trimmed a little to fit your needs. 

Wood bed is customizable by moving or deleting negative parts pre-slice.

 

Upper links will need to be longer, almost the same length as the lowers. 2 Chassis and body options (1 for 3S lipo room), adjustable servo and shock cutouts pre-slice, (move negative shapes front to back to adjust shock hole position. Move grey pieces up/down and in/out to make flush to adjust for servo cutout position then change color to match.) (1 option with no servo cutout).

 

I'm sure I am forgetting something…lol.

Let me know if you have any questions or ideas for improvement!

 

Calicrawler/Unicorn Crawlers

 

Thanks to “Timmay!” for written permission to post this…very cool.

Definitely check out the OG Horse by him.

Comment & Rating (34)

(0/1000)

trying to message you about this and what screws you use to put the complete set up together please let.me know
The designer has replied
0
Reply
M1.4 everywhere (whatever links work for you) accept M2 (4-8x) to attach skid to chassis and M1.6 (x2) to attach rear frame to tube chassis. the ones that attach the grill frame go in at an angle. I would pre-thread them first to see how deep and what angle they are. I think I used 5mm for those.
0
Reply
ok thx
0
Reply
Replying to @J.C.kustoms :
meant to say length not “links”
0
Reply
Boosted
thank you for this design, had to trim the front to make it work with injora axles. Looks great 👍
The designer has replied
1
Reply
Where did you trim? Send me a pic, maybe I can modify it and add it to the file.
0
Reply
Boosted
the upper/smaller steering link hit against the frame when fully compressed. I guess this is because the small stering link is not mounted above the wheel hub but more in the middle.
1
Reply
Very cool build! I used Eryone Burnt Titanium Rainbow PLA and white PLA. I am using gladiator front high clearance links and deadbolt rear high clearance links from RampCrab. 64mm HobbySoul tires on HobbySoul wheels. Had Racent Jeep electronics, used them for now, used sticky velcro to hold them in. Used some Temu shocks. I added velcro straps to the rear of the body and roof to hold the body on. Crawls great, lots of flex! Took a couple falls, no problem. Might try to use it at the next comp if allowed.
(Edited)
2
Reply
great design, thanks again!
The designer has replied
1
Reply
I haven’t seen one with the hood bump yet. Looks good.
0
Reply
bro this is sick I need to print this. and what bumper are you using
(Edited)
The designer has replied
3
Reply
Much appreciated! An Injora stinger bumper I took the grinding wheel too… Lol. But it will fit any bumper meant for SCX24. Or just use a round brace piece to connect the rails in front if no bumper is wanted.
0
Reply
ok thanks
0
Reply
any chance on getting this for a scx30?
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Definitely in the future. I have a few projects I need to get done first though. will probably bolt onto the existing frame in-place of the sliders and rear mount.
0
Reply
Replying to @UnicornCrawlers :
pleaseee i need it bad..... love the work though
0
Reply
Replying to @UnicornCrawlers :
i can be your tester XD
0
Reply
Looks great! Only wish you would have standardized the screw size to 1 size instead of 3
The designer has replied
1
Reply
I did initially, but those points didn’t feel strong enough secured with 1.4 (maybe the material I was prototype printing with?). So I beefed them up. I get it, I hate even more when a product comes with two different size driver socket heads with the same size screw.
0
Reply
Replying to @UnicornCrawlers :
Looks amazing tho! I have too many builds going 😂😂
0
Reply
what link setup are you using. I'm guessing the c10
The designer has replied
0
Reply
I tried to stick with about 3 mm different length in back (between top and bottom, I think I have 55 lowers on the top with the bend at the chassis and 58.5 on the bottom with the band at the axle like normal.) Front I have 50 lower and would recommend the same thing for the top, but it depends what angle you want your axle to be at I guess. My uppers are rampcrabs I bent to clear the motor.
0
Reply
here’s a pic.
0
Reply
I forgot, I’m not using bent lowers in the front if that matters to you.
0
Reply
How do the links attach? I only see one set on each side to attach. Have anymore pictures? What links are you using? Thanks.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
0
Reply
yes. Sorry, I need to fill in the description today Lol.
1
Reply
mix and match of length throughout. I attached the uppers to the frame rail in one of the three holes next to the skid. You’ll need almost the same length as the lowers. I haven’t tried it, but you could attach them to one of the holes farther up the chassis too. I would personally go with the longer uppers as it gives you better geometry.
2
Reply
Replying to @UnicornCrawlers :
Thats what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure. Thank you!
0
Reply
Boosted
freaking sick looking build, even cooler that it's free
3
Reply

License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.