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Skadis Direct-Feed Spool Holder

IP Report

Print Profile(6)

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P1S
A1
H2D
H2C
P2S
H2D Pro
P1P
X1E
H2S
X1
X1 Carbon
X2D
A2L
A1 mini

Skadis Spool Holder - Max. D200mm 1kg
Skadis Spool Holder - Max. D200mm 1kg
Designer
13.1 h
5 plates
5.0(20)

(AMS) Skadis Spool Holder
(AMS) Skadis Spool Holder
Designer
12.4 h
5 plates
4.5(2)

Fancy Panels
Fancy Panels
Designer
11.5 h
4 plates

Filament Clip/Spool Handle for NEW Sunlu Spools
Filament Clip/Spool Handle for NEW Sunlu Spools
Designer
13 min
1 plate
4.0(2)
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Open in Bambu Studio
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3095
9573
131
88
1.5 k
299
Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
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P2S / 4000mm*1 White (Cut-to-length)
PC4-M6 Pneumatic Connector (5PCS) - FC001
608ZZ (2PCS) - EA027

Description

Boost Me (for free)

If this model helped you, please support my work by giving me a boost. Thank you!

Hello everyone!

 

If you’ve been printing with extremely soft flexible filaments like TPU 90A, you might have run into under-extrusion issues or tangles when trying to pull it through multi-material systems like the AMS HT. The best solution for printing soft TPU is to eliminate as much friction as possible by mounting the filament directly above the printer.

 

Introducing the Skadis Direct-Feed Spool Holder

Friction Free Feeding for TPU Prints

This dispenser mounts securely to your IKEA Skadis board right above your machine, allowing the filament to feed straight down to the extruder for the smoothest possible path.

Key Features:

  • Direct PTFE Path: The bottom of the housing features a threaded port for a standard pneumatic fitting, allowing you to run a PTFE tube directly to your toolhead.
  • Spool Rollers (Bambu & Sunlu): The included bearing-based rollers fit perfectly into the centre hubs of standard Bambu Lab and the new Sunlu spools. (Use the customisation tool to generate some for other spool sizes)
  • Modular Two-Tone Aesthetic: Customise the press-fit side panels to colour-coordinate your workshop.

 

Printing Profile & Specs

I have optimised the print profile to ensure the locking mechanisms and overhangs print cleanly.

  • Material: Sunlu PLA+ is recommended for the main body for that extra durability and dimensional accuracy.
  • Print Time: Approximately 12 hours to print all components.
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm (default).
  • Speed Settings: * Inner and Outer Walls: 150 mm/s.
    • First Layer: Slowed down to 50 mm/s using a concentric initial layer pattern for a clean, reliable base.
    • Overhangs: Slowed down to 20 mm/s to ensure part prints perfectly without sagging.
  • Supports: Almost entirely support-free! You will only need to enable supports for one small section on the lid.

 

Assembly Instructions

  1. Assemble the Main Body: The main housing is printed in two separate halves. to connect them, align the slot and groove on the rims, then carefully rotate the top half into place until it locks securely into the bottom half, if it starts to bind up check it isn't misaligned. You can use a little force at the end but the rest should be done with a slow constant motion. 

  2. Side Panels: align the side panels to the cut-outs of the main body and press them firmly until they click into place. The lip should be flush to the main body.

  3. Install the Lid & Hardware: Feed the lid through the slot until it snaps in place then screw your pneumatic fitting directly into the bottom port.

  4. Prep Your Spool: Insert the printed roller hubs (with bearings installed) into both sides of your filament spool.

  5. Attach optional Filament clip, which doubles as a handle for easier spool removal

     

  6. Mount & Feed: Hook the empty housing onto your Skadis board, drop in your prepped spool, and feed the filament down through the PTFE tube!

 

I'm continuously upgrading my home and workspace, so please follow @moss3d for new uploads.

 

_______________________________________________________________

IKEA SKADIS CUSTOMISERS

 

Comment & Rating (131)

(0/1000)

this is already the third attempt I'm trying, it looks like this every time, what am I doing wrong? what do I need to adjust so that this doesn't happen anymore? Or is it perhaps the filament, I'm using Sunlu PLA+
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I'm not sure, is this the only filament you've tried? did you change any settings like layer height? try reducing inner and outer wall printing speed
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Replying to @moss3d :
I haven't changed any settings. I'll try with a lower print speed for the inner and outer walls now, if that doesn't work, I'll try a different filament
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I'm having the same sagging issue with the perimeter protrusions. The holes' overhang prints nicely every time. Curiously the first half printed flawlessly but every subsequent try has sagged even though the file is the same. Bambu PLA and eSun PLA+ have been my materials. Custom gcode for reduced nozzle temp for the overhang didn't help. Next trick will be using 0.6 nozzle for wider extrusion and hoping it'll give enough support from previous layer. Will report back once I've ran the experiment.
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I had an issue with the last plate. That makes three failed attempts now. The print starts to come apart in the front section (where there’s no support structure) after just a short time. The first attempt was with the default settings (H2C), then I tried reducing the print speed, and finally I added glue to the build plate.What else can I try???
The designer has replied
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Sorry it is quite a thin part, try adding brim ears
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Replying to @moss3d :
unfortunately no improved result. I think this part is to thin...
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have you tried putting several layers of balsa wood
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Congratulations on being chosen as MakerWorld's Featured Model! As a showcase for top-tier excellence, you'll receive perks such as higher point rewards, greater visibility, profile recognition! We believe your work will inspire fellow creators by demonstrating the high standards MakerWorld sets for its best models.
The designer has replied
designer
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That is amazing, thank you so much!
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Beeg się z nią w klasie jest na mnie liczyć nie umie tego że
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congrats!
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Great design Thank you for that However I have serious doubts about the durability of the Skadis fastening There is only one per half each and then they are also in the weakest area of the holder I would integrate 3 retaining tabs per shell each that are pushed in from above into the Skadis wall Examples of this can be found in the numerous spool holders available here The lower support tab is then superfluous
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thank you, they do look a little fragile, I did consider adding some extra hooks, but it effects the way it attaches to the board. It would help but not necessary due to the orientation they are being printed means they are quite strong. To make them stronger I have placed modifiers on the hooks so they print with 80% infill which does help. designs that use a lot of the hooks are usually printed in the weakest orientation, you couldn't snap mine off without a lot of force, way more than is needed to hold them up.
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Replying to @moss3d :
thanks for the quick reply and the clarification. I will trust in your expertise ;-)
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Replying to @GeoChris911 :
No problem, I'm using only PLA for mine so it could be improved with tougher filaments, main concern was whether my pegboard would be able to support all of mine, if they are in direct sunlight for any period then consider using a suitable filament
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Printed perfectly! I used PETG HF for the red and black, and the white ish is PETG translucent. Just need to get a hold of a connector and some bearings. The thin part some people have had issues with I used some spray adhesive on the build plate and it came out perfect.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
designer
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I'm pleased to hear it, thanks for the tip!
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All the parts are perfect except the thin one. I'm unable to get it out. I print in PEGT. Has anyone used another configuration or placed it differently so it doesn't break? I love the model but I'm unable to get this part out
The designer has replied
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designer
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I'm sorry to hear that, I've uploaded a separate print profile for just the lid in case any has this problem, it is slightly thicker and has brim ears enabled, I also adjusted some of the print speed settings, hope it helps!
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First one looked like that, second one I used the auto-brim, printed without issue.
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Print Profile
Skadis Spool Holder - Max. D200mm 1kg
Really a nice print or drawing! I made my own shaft with an adapter for geeetech. Because my 250g spools and the 1kg evryone have the same diameter as the Bambu Lab ones! So I only needed a simple adapter! I'm currently printing custom Skadis wall mounts that are just for the spools!
(Edited)
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Thank you, glad you were able to modify it for your spools, nice work!
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Print Profile
Skadis Spool Holder - Max. D200mm 1kg
although the six pieces that cover the sides of the roll holder fit very tightly, (less air enters inside) the model is perfectly functional and very elegant
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Nice one, although It looks like you've fitted the panels in backwards, it's fine, they just might pop in when handling. the most secure way is to apply the panels from the outside of the holder, the fit is still tight but you won't have to worry about the side panels coming free. Thanks for the feedback!
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nice
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Very nice and good looking model. If the overhangs give you trouble check the wall printing speeds on your slicer. This has helped some people. What finally worked for me, after several unsuccesful attempts at other tinkering, was halving the layer height for the overhang layers (0.2 base setting and ~0.1 for the overhangs). You could print the entire model with finer layer height, but I went with adaptive for the overhangs for maintaining print time and the results are great. If you wish to print bearings in place of steel ones the following 608Z bearing fits the roller if you max out the bearing post (4mm radius). https://makerworld.com/en/models/473167-608z-6000z-6001z-roller-bearing-v2#profileId-383170
The designer has replied
designer
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I see you figured it out, thanks for sticking with it, must have been quite frustrating. Thanks for the feedback!
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