V-Spooler

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A1 mini

V-Spooler 1.0
V-Spooler 1.0
Designer
27.3 h
6 plates
4.9(2.4 k)

V-Spooler 1.0 Large Bed Edition
V-Spooler 1.0 Large Bed Edition
Designer
28 h
4 plates

Beta 4 - 8.1 to 1.0 Upgrade
Beta 4 - 8.1 to 1.0 Upgrade
Designer
15.7 h
5 plates
5.0(62)

Beta 2 - 3 to 1.0 Upgrade
Beta 2 - 3 to 1.0 Upgrade
Designer
19.1 h
6 plates
4.8(12)
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24.5 k
33.6 k
Released

Description

News: V-Spooler spindle and clamp options are now listed on a separate page here.

 

Our manufacturing partner Veetec3D provides hardware kits, printed parts and fully assembled V-Spoolers at their Etsy store, for which Fyrby Additive receives a percentage. You can find the store here. If you are looking to upgrade from beta 8.1 the kits and/or parts are now also available here!

 

Please be sure to get the kit that matches your model. There are now two versions, the normal V-Spooler kit and the “Large Bed Edition” kit for H2D, see below.

 

V-Spooler is free here but it would be great if you can support me by either joining my club for at least a month, which gives you access to this and other models for the duration of membership. An alternative is to also buy it from the Printables store.

 

To help you with your build you can now also preview V-Spooler in a web browser on your computer, or using AR on a phone or AR/VR headsets such as the vision pro here. Note we provide upgrade files separately in the profiles area so you can upgrade incrementally from any version.

 

V-Spooler 1.0 Changes From Beta 8.1:

  • Revised cam and gearing to allow more stable higher speed operation of V-Spooler.
  • New quick change adaptors allowing quick easy changes between drill/handle.
  • Updated stronger handle design.
  • New tensioner via addition of a clamp on the tube guide. The hole in the guide for the tube is now also larger for easier insertion and removal.
  • Slightly less play around the drive shaft (no play is not desirable).
  • Bearings around the drive shaft are rotated to ensure less load on the bearings at rest.
  • The right core frame part has holes to fit the future motor modification.
  • The tube guide mounting screws are on the opposite side making fitting/removal easier.
  • Two of the inner spool clamp parts have had internal overhangs removed.
  • The drill attachment option is now included by default

The barrel cam and follower on the original V-Spooler worked, however was sensitive to small differences in build configurations (printer/plastics/etc) and will never work well or for long at high speed. It also wobbles a bit.

 

The new assembly balances the cam with bearings above so the follower is more well aligned and overall has much less friction, helped by the addition of a spring under the follower. The assembly is also more stable and less prone to wobble and can be operated much faster.

Introduction

V-Spooler is a re-spooler optimised for re-spooling to Bambu and Extrudr spools (will work with other same diameter spools) and is designed to occupy the smallest footprint in a vertical arrangement, hence the V in V-Spooler.

 

I designed the gears in FreeCAD, the cam in Plasticity and did the rest of the project in Shapr3D. The model above was printed using Prusament PC-CF and Spectrum PETG-PTFE composites.

 

One of the biggest requests I get is for a video of V-Spooler working, so here is a short video (currently Beta 8.1, will be updated!). If you would like to see how to load V-Spooler, please scroll to the bottom to find the tutorial videos there.

Which V-Spooler Should I Print?

V-Spooler MiniV-SpoolerV-Spooler X
  • You have a small (e.g. A1 mini) or normal sized printer and/or…
  • You want to re-spool from an external spool holder
  • Normal sized printer (e.g. P1P)
  • You want to re-spool only 1kg spools
  • Normal sized printer (e.g. P1P)
  • You want to also re-spool larger than 1kg spools in a compact space
  • Takes up a bit more desk space than V-Spooler, but not much

Additionally there is a “Large Bed Edition” version available for 3D printers with larger print beds and files prepared for the Prusa XL and Bambu Lab H2D printers. This is slightly easier to build due to having less parts and has a slightly smaller bill of materiels.

Which Profile Do I Print?

You Want To Print A New V-Spooler

V-Spooler 1.0 is the main profile for this model which is updated every release to include all changes, so you do not have to upgrade when printing a new V-Spooler.

 

If you have a H2D you have the option to use the profile above or the V-Spooler 1.0 Large Bed Edition.

 

You Want To Print A V-Spooler Option

Look at the options section below and pick one, then go to the files area and choose either the Bambu or Generic 3MFs depending on your preference and print the matching file.

 

You Want To Upgrade V-Spooler

If your upper rollers look like the ones pictured to the right with a lip on either end, you should use the Beta 4 - 8.1 to 1.0 upgrade.
If your upper rollers are straight you should use the Beta 2 - 3 to 1.0 upgrade.

Required Components

V-SpoolerV-Spooler Large Bed EditionBeta 4 - 8.1 Upgrade
• M3 inserts x61
• 608 bearings x20
• 693zz bearings x4
• 0.5 x 7 x 12mm helical compression spring x1
• M3x8 screws x18
• M3x12 screws x1
• M3x16 screws x31
• M3x20 screws x8
• M3x25 screws x4
• M3 washers x65
• M3 lock nuts x2
• PTFE tube with 4mm OD
• M3 inserts x57
• 608 bearings x20
• 693zz bearings x4
• 0.5 x 7 x 12mm helical compression spring x1
• M3x8 screws x18
• M3x12 screws x9
• M3x16 screws x27
• M3x25 screws x4
• M3 washers x61
• M3 lock nuts x2
• PTFE tube with 4mm OD
• M3 inserts x43
• 693zz bearings x4
• 0.5 x 7 x 12mm helical compression spring x1
• M3 lock nuts x2
• M3x8 screws x10
• M3x16 screws x28
• M3 washers x13

The helical compression spring can be easily sourced at Bambu Lab at the following links US/EU/UK/AU/CA/Global.

 

Please note that inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron and that those supplied by Bambu Lab are a slightly different size and less suitable. Ruthex or CNC Kitchen are good choices.

Optional Build Items

Loctite Blue

At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from Loctite Threadlocker Blue. Do not use the red Loctite, it is too strong for plastic parts with inserts.

 

When you use Loctite Blue put a very small amount of it on the end before screwing it in. This is important for future removal. Please do not use this all over the model for ease of maintenance.

 

PTFE Lubricant

Plastic parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE lubricant or other lubricant that is compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been completed a light greasing of the lead screw will help operation.

Optional Model Parts

V-Spooler spindle and clamp options are now listed on a separate page here.

 

These options are provided in separate profile downloads:

 

Desk Mounting - There are now optional desk mounts, the holes for screws in the desk mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

 

Dust Protection - This part stops cardboard particles and other dirt dropping on to the target spool. It is supplied separately as it obscures the view a little, uses a bit more plastic. You can remove the objects “brace front upper” and “brace rear upper” from the main print job if you want to use this part. Note you will need to upgrade to Beta 4 to use the current part.

Upgrading From Betas

If you are upgrading from beta 4 - 8.1 the upper frame part provided as part of the upgrade only deletes an unused screw hole.

 

Hence this part is optional and can be deleted from the build plate it is on to save a little plastic.

 

If you are upgrading from beta 2 - 3 both of these should remain in your print.

As this page is getting rather complicated, depending on your familiarity with V-Spooler if you are performing an upgrade the best approach may be to disassemble your existing V-Spooler and follow the instructions below using the upgraded parts in combination with parts carried over from betas.

Assembly

Please find the relevant instructions for your model under the files tab on this page.


Documentation (3)

Assembly Guide (3)
Beta 8.1 Instructions.pdf
V-Spooler 1.0 Assembly Instructions.pdf
V-Spooler X 1.0 Large Bed Edition Instructions.pdf

Comment & Rating (4700)

(0/5000)

Boosted
I have to say, after printing 3 different spoolers this is the one I really like the most. The design is absolutely great and I also have deep respect for people that can do something like this. The only little problem that I have is, that filament guide is not working properly. Offently it gets stuck, when it "crosses" the way and then it turns arround to go back where it came from. It is a known problem? Are there any instructions on how to fix this? If I hold the filament guide and push it a little bit whole spooling it does not get stuck. Bit I even have the feeling, that gear that it runs on would need to have a little more diameter to let it sit more tight. When it gets stuck, the little nose in the guide does not follow the "street" it completely goes straight over the gear. Any ideas?
The designer has replied
22
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Hi there, sorry you have experienced this. Would just like to check you used the configured print profile and printed the plates with these parts on at 0.16mm layer height (the rest of the model is 0.2mm). The tooth should not get stuck on the cam, although sometimes when I spin up a new model it gets stuck on the first go across then loosens up. It could be that maybe the tooth has been damaged in your case and may be worth inspecting.
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Boosted
Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
Many thanks for your swift reply. I am pretty sure, that the gear was printed with 0.16mm and in Extrudr NX2. The tooth I already printed a second time. Just for security I am currently printing the gear a second time. But as said, for me the gear could be a little bit thicker to let is run more tight. I also checked if I scaled it without knowing but this was not the case... Will let you know how it went with the new gear...
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Boosted
Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
I have printed the gear again, with the same result. May it be that the tooth is not able to turn freely in a fillament guide? How could I avoid this?
3
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Hello, I kindly ask for help. I'm not sure if I bought wrong ruthex or I made some other mistake, but in my case ruthex does not go in hole; please see the pictures attached. I have no knowledge of how should ruthex be turned; kindly ask for help.
The designer has replied
3
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Hi - you got the right inserts, however you need to insert them with a soldering iron.
10
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Lastly if that is PLA, I set my iron to 160-170 celcius depending on the plastic.
6
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Absolutely fantastic, this is going to be an invaluable gadget. Many thanks. My feedback: easy to print, great design, easy to follow instructions, works really well once I got the knack. As a few other mentioned I'd use slightly larger holes for the brass inserts, plus I'd extend the hole a few mm deeper where possible to let plastic build up escape and allow slightly longer bolts (as I didn't have enough short ones!) Also possibly add a third roller above the bottom spool, maybe spring loaded to hold the spool in place to save it bouncing around? I use mostly eSun spools, so printed the generic clamp and spindle. The eSun spool is very loose, so to hold it tighter I printed two smalls sleeves to sit inside the spool, see attached pics Overall, totally brilliant :-)
The designer has replied
7
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Hi thanks for the feedback! In the next update that is being prepared we have loosened up all the holes that lead to inserts. We made a couple of the ruthex holes (most notably the gearbox cover ones around the bearings) a little deeper. It's an interesting idea with an upper roller, I think it would need probably a few stiff springs to be effective. Another place we have been thinking about trying a spring out is above the tooth on the barrel cam or on some kind of self centering universal clamp. These would be optional as people generally do not want to buy springs and probably a way off in the feature queue due to these factors.
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what colour and brand did you use to print this?
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Replying to @coolsecret :
In my case, Extrudr NX2 PLA (it's matte) orange, metallic and black.
1
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Great design, consider posting a video of it in operation and maybe time permitting, an assembly video.
22
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there are….
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Hello, I printed the model and am absolutely thrilled with the construction and functionality. My previous model took up twice the space and didn't work nearly as well. I made a few small changes to operate the V-Spooler with a stepper motor and Bosch 12v battery. Now the thing is perfect in my opinion. Thank you for sharing the model with us.
The designer has replied
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Nice tidy mod there! :)
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Is this the PAHT V-Spooler I saw on YouTube?
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Boosted
Great mod, could you share your build?
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I had exactly the same problems as Tommyb. Filament guide jams or changes direction at the inner crossing points of the guide grooves. To solve the problem, I increased the width of the CAM_Tooth_Carrier to 16mm. This improves the guidance on the axis. The most important change I made was to increase the diameter of the CAM__Tooth to 9mm. This allows the guide rib to bridge the clearance of the crossing points of the spiral track. Since then I have had no more problems and am absolutely happy with the spooler. I hope I was able to contribute a little to solving the problem.
The designer has replied
6
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Thanks I have noted this down to try out, although I didn't get a problem yet it's worth trying out if it helps others.
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How do I do this. I'm having the same jamming and changing direction issues.
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Do you have your modified parts posted somewhere?
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Print Profile
Dust Protection Option
The new update is quite amazing, spring was a bit hard to source, but everything has much less play and feels very rigid.
0
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Thanks! Is the spring out of stock in "Makers Supply" here? Your build looks great!
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Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
It wasn't, but it was a bit hard to justify the shipping for just the spring alone haha. Luckily I ended up grabbing a Maker's Essential Kit A from marketplace and it had one in it :)
1
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I think you have the carrier plate above the cam installed upside down.
1
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printed awesome went together great and the gbox cover the handle shaft won't sit striaght is fouling on the lip where the bearings are as shown in photo also the next gear up sitting crooked causing it to all bind up please help
The designer has replied
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Thanks this is strange I have not experienced this, will have a closer look at our test models.
1
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Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
Would it be possible to get more pictures please or for you to mark where the issues are in the pictures? It is a little difficult for me to understand the problem and I want to help! Thank you!
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Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
hope this is better I used pen to point out the issues I'm having also as you can see the gear are all sitting crooked but all screws to put cover on lined up perfect
0
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Print Profile
V-Spooler 1.0
The instructions could be better, I messed some stuff up at one point because I missed a part that could have been clearer and needed to break a piece to go back, was easily to improvise and repair, though. Super fun to make and works well for respooling on a number of spools that are similar in shape to Bambu ones, like Priline, for example.
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Hi, thanks for the feedback, I would be interested to know which bit you broke. If it was one of the bearing posts in the gearbox cover, a fix is coming...
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Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
No, and actually looking back at the instructions it was more my fault then your instructions fault, I had to break the handle because I forgot to put the axle on and put the handle on without the axle being in place. What tripped me up is that the section about assembling the gears only says gears, but the image clearly shows the axle as well, so I should have seen it! Oh though, I do suggest slightly larger screw holes, I had to drill them to push through the M3s.
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Replying to @SkyeShark :
Thanks, we already have larger screw holes across the whole model for the next update! Just waiting to print the parts off now so we can test them!
1
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Print Profile
V-Spooler 1.0
Printed great but I am having an issue with the filament guide binding up on the barrel and cam gear 34 on Beta 8. Will try reprinting the tooth and cleaning out the hole for the pin to locate in case the issue is there.
1
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Hi there, can you see if it is the curved surface of the carrier that slides along the cam that needs finishing smoothly? I.e. the big hole as pictured and not the hole for the tooth, thanks.
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Replying to @FyrbyAdditive :
Tried refinishing and printing a new tooth but still unfortunately binding at this point and usually in the middle of the cam length.
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Replying to @printworkgarage :
Sometimes at these points it is stiff on the first run. I have noticed that one in every 5 or 6 I test needs to have it kind of force over there the first time, then it seems to be free forever. With PLA this is the case, with PETG it seems to not free itself. Can you try and kind of force it over once - but being careful to not break it if you get me, then see if it works after?
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