RPG Swords - 15 Different - Series 3

RPG Swords - 15 Different - Series 3

A role-playing game (sometimes spelled as roleplaying game or abbreviated as RPG) is a game in which players assume and play out the roles of characters in a fictional setting. Players take responsibility for acting out these roles within a narrative, either through literal acting or through a process of structured decision-making regarding character development.[3] Actions taken within many games succeed or fail according to a formal system of rules and guidelines.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Role-playing_game

Other AVAILABLE ‘Weapon Themed’ Models

1. Medieval Weapons - Used via Persian/Greek Battles found HERE
2. RPG Swords - 15 Different - Series 3 found HERE
3. Medieval Weapons Updated Miniatures RPG 76 total found HERE
4. Weapons: Early-High Medieval 800-1400 CE ~ 12+ tot tot HERE

Medieval Weapons - Used via Persian/Greek Battles found HERE

This set.

Medieval Weapons Updated Miniatures RPG 76 total found HERE

Weapons: Early-High Medieval 800-1400 CE ~ 12+ tot HERE

⚠️ Print & Handling Notes

These models include fine, delicate details.
A strong filament is recommended — or anneal your set for additional strength (see below).

Bambu Studio Settings

Printer Settings

• Nozzle Diameter → 0.4 mm

• Compatible Material → PLA+

Filament Settings

• Nozzle Temperature (first layer) → 205 °C

• Nozzle Temperature (others) → 200 °C

• Bed Temperature (first layer) → 60 °C

• Bed Temperature (others) → 50–55 °C

• Cooling Fan:

◦ Layer 1–2 → OFF

◦ Layer 3+ → 100%

Quality

• Layer Height (Standard) → 0.20 mm

• Initial Layer Height → 0.20 mm

• Line Width → 0.45 mm

• Elephant Foot Compensation → 0.15 mm

Speed

• First Layer Speed → 20 mm/s

• Outer Wall Speed → 35 mm/s

• Inner Wall Speed → 50 mm/s

• Infill Speed → 50 mm/s

• Travel Speed → 120 mm/s

Acceleration / Jerk

• Default Acceleration → 1000 mm/s²

• Outer Wall Acceleration → 500 mm/s²

• First Layer Acceleration → 300 mm/s²

• Travel Acceleration → 2500 mm/s²

• Jerk (XY) → 8 mm/s

Strength / Infill

• Wall Loops → 3

• Top Layers → 4

• Bottom Layers → 4

• Infill Density → 20%

• Infill Pattern → Gyroid

• Sparse Infill Anchor Length → 5 mm (🔔 Note: increase to 10 mm if you see weak infill connections)

Skirt & Brim

• Skirt Loops → 3

• Skirt Distance → 2 mm

• Skirt Layers → 1

Retraction

• Retraction Distance → 4 mm

• Retraction Speed → 40 mm/s

• Z-Hop → 0.2 mm

• Wipe While Retracting → Enabled

• Retract on Layer Change → Disabled

• Minimum Travel Before Retraction → 1.0 mm

Supports

• Support Style → Tree

• Top Contact Z Distance → 0.25 mm (detachable, fixed)

• Support Density → 15%

• Support Interface Pattern → Grid

• XY Distance → 0.5 mm

• First Layer Support Gap → 0.3 mm

♨️ ANNEALING — Hardening Your Chess Pieces

Annealing your PLA models can improve strength by 10 – 20 %.
If you plan to play with these sets regularly, annealing is highly recommended.

If your goal is display or occasional play, annealing is optional.
The appearance and finish remain unchanged.

🔗 More info: Annealing PLA Prints for Strength — Easy Ways (All3DP)

Please note: 

Because I’m retired and on a fixed income, I print these models at a smaller scale to save on filament. All of these models are printed at 80% of the model size. 

Thank you!  Thank you!  To all of you who Boost my uploads.  Because of YOU I can get my filament now from “Maker's Supply”, saving me from using real money. 

These creations are made purely for the joy of sculpting and sharing. Printing at a reduced scale can sometimes affect the quality of fine details; printing at full or larger sizes will yield smoother, more refined results.

Also, as a 77-year-old maker with hands that sometimes have a mind of their own, I occasionally have to use a little hot-glue surgery to reattach delicate parts. Please handle models with care—especially thin necks, joints, and fragile connectors. Take a moment to study your model before removing supports… or you might find yourself reaching for the glue gun too! 🥲