Adapter for H2D and A1 Hotends for Elegoo CC

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Pedrinbeep

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

IP Report

Print Profile(2)

All

P1S

A1 mini

H2S

P1P

H2D Pro

X1 Carbon

H2D

X1E

P2S

H2C

X2D

A2L

PETG Profile - 0.12mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

1.2 h

1 plate

5.0(4)

PLA Profile - 0.12mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

57 min

1 plate

5.0(2)

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

310

472

185

949

Released

Description

Adapter for Elegoo Centauri Carbon for Hotends from Bambulab (H2D & A1)
FINAL UPDATE — Complete Adapter Release for Using BambuLab H2/A1 Hotends on Elegoo Centauri Carbon:

Hi everyone,

This is the final update for the project. After several days of testing, gathering feedback from the community, fixing small issues, and validating prints, I’m releasing the complete and final set of files.

File Packages Now Available on MakerWorld

You now have multiple versions of the adapter available:

1. FDM Printing Version (for brass inserts)

Designed for users printing in PETG, ASA, PPA-CF, etc.
Includes holes sized for 3 mm brass inserts.

2. Resin Printing Version

Internal threads are already modeled into the part.
Perfect for high-temp engineering resins.

3. CNC / SLM Metal Version

The adapter and fan shroud are separated.
Available with modeled threads or with 2.5 mm pilot holes so you can tap threads manually.

Versions are available as, 3MF, STL and STEP files so you can edit or inspect the parts however you want.

If something is missing in the files, text me.

- CNC - ADAPTER WITH M3 THREADS.step (or the .STL for SLM) - CNC or SLM but you should indicadte to the company (like JLCPCB or PCBWAY) where are the threads. Talk to them before purchasing anything.

- 3D METAL - ADAPTER WITHOUT THREATS.step and WITH THREADS (or the .STL for SLM) - This have a post process of tapping the M3 threads manually.

And print in 3d the shroud fan:
- FAN SHROUD ALONE.stl

For 3D Print you have two option, FDM or RESIN. For filaments or resin material, read the info, but the files are:
FDM: - H2-A1 ADAPTER REDESIGN V2 FOR INSERTS.stl
You just need to use your own setting, but the adapter print itself with auto orientation and only support in the rear side.

RESIN: - ADAPTER WITH THREADS V2.stl - I didn't printed in resin yet (I don't have heat resistant resin) but it a simple part to add your support and orientation.

For the FAN SHROUD:
- FAN SHROUD ALONE.stl and step is for 3D print in plastic, you don't need to add weight to the adapter. It's like the actual hotend from Elegoo, one is build in metal (the hotend) and the other one is in plastic (fan shroud).

The plastic version is completely joined to reduce vibrations and forces with more points of support. In the case of metal, this is not necessary.

I order a metal version, when it arrive I will show the results in the post, if you want to wait.

SMALL REDESIGN:

During testing, I discovered that the screw holding the fan shroud caused a small deformation due to a ~0.4 mm offset in the stock Elegoo head plastics. Elegoo is weird designing things.
I fixed this by adding a relief cut in the adapter.
Now the deformation is isolated to that small area and does NOT affect the adapter’s functionality. I’m very sorry for the people that already print and test the Adapter. I highly recommend to reprint it or made a cut in that part if you don’t use the adapter yet.

Deformation without the fix and with the fix:

Deformation and Deformation with the fix

PARTS OF THE PROJECT:

3× M3×6 mm screws (7 mm works, but don’t go longer)
3× M3×3 mm brass inserts (2.5 mm is better if you find them)
Phillips screwdriver
Allen keys from the printer (you will need a small Allen key for the Heater Assembly screws)

HEATER ASSEMBLY GUIDE (Check the new video for more instructions)

I’ve created a new video showing the full process :

Disassembling the Elegoo hotend
Transferring the ceramic heater and thermistor
Reassembling the BambuLab Heater Assembly
Installing it into the Centauri Carbon
Calibrate the printer
Running the first Benchy print

Buying the heater + thermistor separately (optional)

If you don’t want to tear down an Elegoo hotend, user u/Charon711 found a compatible Amazon option for the ceramic heater + thermistor:
(Example link; search for your local region)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNC62ZQW?

Compatible Heater Assemblies:

BambuLab A1
BambuLab P2S
BambuLab H2D / H2D-S → Right-side block ONLY (left side has different hole spacing)

Charon also shared high-temperature rear support blocks (black stone and white zirconia).
The white zirconia version is BambuLab’s latest design.
Clones work perfectly fine.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F8V6NMXH

MATERIALS FOR THE ADAPTER

Aluminum

Ideal for long-term reliability.
You can order CNC machining from PCBWay / JLCPCB or similar services for $30–50 in SLM or CNC.
In this case the shroud fan is separated to reduce weigh and cost. Just print in 3D the shroud and the adapter in Aluminum.
Just to have in mid, the Elegoo Hotend without the shroud fan weigh 40 gr. You can get something like this with an Aluminum and all the assembly. The printer will not suffer.

For Resin Printing:

Use high-temp engineering resins (or a good engineering resin).
Do not hollow the part; print it solid. It small, you aren’t going to waste to much resin.
The STL didn’t includes the correct orientation for resin printing. It is an easy part to print.

For FDM Printing:

- PPAHT-CF or PPA-CF

Expensive, but excellent thermal performance.
Users have reported great results.

Other notes:

u/L1berty0rDeath1 suggested adding mica insulation sheets between the heater and adapter could work.
Spray-on thermal barriers may work, but I don’t have enough info about this. Share your experience in the comments if you have more knowledge about this.

PETG and ASA (with CF or not) work, but rear screw heat may cause long-term deformation.
Check periodically because it’s normal.

For the best surface quality and dimensional accuracy:

Infill: 30–40%
Ironing ON for the top surfaces. It's important to get better dimensions.
Print on the smooth side of the build plate if possible
Sand the filament entry hole with a 2 mm bit
Sand the rear support-contact surface so it’s flat and smooth

Why Aluminum or Technical Materials Matter

High temperatures from the Heater Assembly can soften consumer-grade plastics over time.
If using PETG or ASA, monitor the rear screw area for early deformation.

The STEP version is provided so anyone can adapt the design to their own material or manufacturing method.

FINAL IMPORTANT NOTES:

When everything is installed:

You MUST calibrate your printer.

Follow the steps shown in the video.

If you only use H2D hotends, no need to re-level.
If you switch between H2D and A1, you MUST run Automatic Leveling. Their nozzle lengths differ, calibration is essential.

The adapter works perfectly for both after many redesigns, but recalibration is mandatory when switching.

FINAL VIDEO (Full Guide)

This final video gathers every detail I could include, heater assembly, installation, calibration, setup, and testing.
Please use both the written guide and the video together for the best results.

I’ve also uploaded the video to YouTube for convenience:

CNC VERSION VIDEO - FILES SOON

For do the file in metal check "CNC" and "3D METAL" step files and the PDF in documentation

Here’s the files uploaded to MakerWorld, completely free (of course).
For those wondering why that platform, it’s so I can use the points to improve the adapter in future versions, using Bambulab’s own materials directly.

This is a project for the community.
I know someone will eventually try to profit from it, but I don’t care.

Mass production is not permitted from my design or redesign. If you make money with this, just donate a portion for charity.
The design is free, open, and meant to help everyone.

If you have feedback, suggestions, thermal protection ideas, or redesign proposals, feel free to comment or remake the adapt in MarkerWorld.
Thanks to everyone who helped test, share data, and improve this project.

Happy printing!

Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)

ADAPTER WITH M3 THREADS.pdf

Comment & Rating (185)

@cartersbusy

would anything go wrong if i got the adapter + shroud stl cnc'd in aluminum? (V2 design with threads)

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Is not a problem but the weight will be bigger, and could be bad for the printhead. Also, you will have to follow the step like the plastic version to install the adapter, isn't difficult but you have to do install it in a different way to have all connected and installed.

@cartersbusy

Replying to @Pedrinbeep :

will the pdf 'adapter with m3 threads' work for the v2 design?

@cartersbusy

Replying to @Pedrinbeep :

Could you also post the step file for the v2 please? And thank you so much for your help and time you put into this project!!! This mod is so sick i can't wait!

@rsamples

The CC community CAD is fine to use as a reference without attribution. But if you are reproducing geometry from the original parts community members modeled your model attribution must be made and you need to release the model under the same license. I can identify the characteristic ridge from the particular order in which I filleted the shroud.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Hi @rsamples ! I get the shroud from a reddit user that share it to me, it's your model? Sorry. And of course I give you the attribution of this modified zone. Also, in my printer have different dimension, I don't know if it's something in particular from the version os Elegoo CC. Give me here your original link please, for sure I give you the attribution

@Pedrinbeep

Replying to @IdleHandsVG :

You came with "heartforge" user no? Seriously, I don't care about any credit, recognition, attribution or attention. This is not a product, I don't sell anything.

@SalvadorMoroni

Boosted

Replying to @IdleHandsVG :

jesus, go find a woman. what an annoying guy

@eu360

Hello! A little help please! I did this changes and keep receiving the error 103 "The print head didn't heat up as expected". I have tried two cartridges (the original and a replacement) and also two different thermistors. The PID calibration is giving this error no matter the chosen temperature. I do not understand what's happening!

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Hi! Do you put the silicon sock in the hotend? I only get this error when the sock is take it.

@eu360

Replying to @Pedrinbeep :

Yes, the silicon sock is on. Now I have put a third heater cartridge in use and with this one I can do the PID but when i try to print after 5-6 layers it give me the same error. Tried 2 times. The PID was done at 220. I was trying to print with PLA set at 220 degrees and in those first 5 layers I saw that the temperature was only at around 214 degrees.... Really I do not understand what is happening....

@user_1877965416

Replying to @eu360 :

The thermistor might not be making good contact with the hotend. Try slightly bending the thermistor's contact pad upwards so that the hotend presses against the pad.

@user_84855586

Hi, I had an aluminum version manufactured, but I’m experiencing overheating of the entire print head. The aluminum block reaches temperatures of around 100 °C when printing PLA, which causes the filament to soften in the filament bore and clog the nozzle. The hotend fan is working normally. Where could the problem be?

The designer has replied

@user_3672920715

I am having the same exact issue where the filament would get softened and get stuck right above the aluminum block. Any input on fixes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

@user_84855586

Replying to @user_3672920715 :

Hi, I’ve just put an adapter into production that will be CNC-machined from PEEK material. This material should not have any issues with this application, as it has almost no thermal conductivity and can withstand continuous temperatures up to 260 °C, with a short-term maximum of 300 °C. I assume that the full temperature is not being transferred directly, but that this is accumulated heat from the heat block. Once it’s manufactured (by the end of February), I’ll test it and let you know.

@Pedrinbeep

Hi! That's rare! Maybe the Shroud fan could be modify for better cooling direction, but I print almost 200h with my CNC aluminum version in PLA and PETG and I don't have any problem with temps. How you check the temps in the adapter? Did you use the thermistor from Elegoo? If you print in PLA and the fan is working correctly you could check how the air flow move inside with something? I use frog smoke with a machine but in rare to have something like that.

@xKen

Just curious, have you ordered this part made using SLM? Does it fit well when printed in metal? If you're waiting for yours to arrive, and plan to make final changes to the design I'll hold off on placing my order. I don't have the tools to post-process metal, so ideally, I would like to avoid having to order twice lol Thanks a lot of sharing this for free!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Hi! Yes, I'm waiting for my part to arrive from JLCPCB, Also, the model is designed with 0.1 mm of tolerance (a big tolerance for the Elegoo plastics). And of course, is better to wait for my final conclusions with this method. Save you wallet for now 😂 Thank you xKen!

@xKen

Replying to @Pedrinbeep :

Ah, I plan to order from them as well. Did you pick SLM or CNC? Which file did you send them? They told me printing M3 threads with SLM is possible, but there's a higher chance of running into problems (poor details, threads cracking...), it's probably better to manually tap the threads. Their MJF printing ("heatproof" nylon) seems like a decent option too (only cost $3). Might get it as a back up just in case the metal printed part doesn't work out lol Please let us know when your metal part arrives 😀

@Pedrinbeep

Replying to @xKen :

Hi, I get both to try for the community. I know SLM will have more weigh but I'm not sure how much (I can get an approximation in the CAD design assigning a material value but that not usually perfect). If you want a PDF size A3 scale 1:1 with a mark of the M3 insert, text me through the chat. The nylon should support enough resistance (around 180ºC the best one) but cover some of the little screws of the back from the Heater Assembly could help more. This screws get really hot. Of course, I will update when the parts arrive.

(Edited)

@user_4017893062

This adaptor is great, but Bambu's system needs tolerances that aftermarket manufacturers get wrong! There are two shoulders on the hot end. The one at the top maintains the exact alignment height, a little downward pressure when locking in ensures a repeatable Z reference. There is also a ledge at the bottom. This needs clearance below the sloped end of the heater base plate, otherwise the hotend cannot sit flush to make a proer thermal interface. I've had several OEM and 3rd party hotends that will not seat fullyon a 3rd party heater base. Fixing this by filing opens up the risk of blob ingress at the thermister pocket. Using OEM Bambu base plate and Bambu hot ends will ensure proper fit, at a price. Some 3rd party hotends are slack, which is ok, some are tight and won't sit properly. BTW, H2D hotends are a better thermal design, but A1 hotends have better sock coverage. Before installing, do check your hotends will actually sit flush on your particular heater base plate

@user_2169579588

Which hotend did you go with?

@FeralPhobia

looking at getting this metal printed as you suggested on your reedit post with the holes with the threads. my question is what about the model fan the holes aren't threaded. anyway to add that ? Thanks in advance and awesome work im really looking forward to upgrading both of my ECC1s with this

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Hi! The fan shroud can be printed in 3D, in metal could make all the part weight more, and that is unnecessary. The screws of this fan aren't metric, are just metal screws for plastic, that's why you don't need threads here, only a hole with the corresponding diameter (like the one that came with the printer).

@FeralPhobia

Replying to @Pedrinbeep :

excuse my ignorance and i cant thank you enough for your time and effort you've put into this project. If i print just this part in metal and print the fan shroud in PETG what's the best method of joining them together my brain just isn't putting it together. do i put in a heat sink here so the fan can screw it and hold them together?

@Pedrinbeep

Replying to @FeralPhobia :

Hi! You don't need to join the shroud fan and the adapter made in metal. - In plastic the adapter and the fan shroud is joined to have a better solid structure to the toolhead of the printer, this reduce vibrations and forces to the adapter. - In metal, you don't need both things joined, it like the actual Elegoo Hotend that is only supported from the top, separated from the shroud fan. Also to reduce weight. That little hole in the side is just to ensure you don't have problem with the screw from the fan shroud, but in reality isn't necessary at all, because the screw didn't go through the fan scroud.

@loginjme

I just ordered the Allu-CNC part and they asked if they could change the design a bit, see photo. For me it looked to be fine or do you have concerns? The text will be lasermarked

The designer has replied

@Pedrinbeep

Hi! No no, that part is not for CNC. Read carefully the files name. For the CNC you have to use the one with "CNC - ADAPTER WITH M3 THREADS.step" name on it. The shroud fan is printed in plastic to save weight and material cost.

@Focussys

Is there any modification needed if adding the Canvas? I notice a sensor board has been added to the swap out parts.

@Prosk8er

yes you might have to shave down a lil on top of the fan shroud and make 2 holes for the sensor. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2342650-adapter-for-h2-a1-quick-swap-hotend-on-elegoo-cc#profileId-2560839 is working on it for cc2 which should be the same. i wont have my cc1 canvas to test it til end of june though

@Focussys

Replying to @Prosk8er :

Many thanks for the reply. Mine is due in September.

@Prosk8er

Replying to @Focussys :

your welcome when i print his new version when he releases it and test it when canvas comes in i'll send you a chat

(Edited)

@user_3479462922

Hey I'm trying to have the part 3d printed in aluminium from jlcpcb but i got this email, i used the 3d metal file with threads, should i just accept the risk or is something wrong here?