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Starlink Mini | Milwaukee Battery Slim Adapter

Remixed by

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X1 Carbon
H2D Pro
H2S
X1
P1P
H2D
P1S
X1E
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 15% infill (Gyroid)
0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 15% infill (Gyroid)
Designer
5.7 h
2 plates
4.9(14)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

Here is my highly requested remix -- Milwaukee version of the Starlink Mini Slim Adapter, but with a battery sled for Milwaukee M18 batteries.

 

Everything is pretty much the same from Digg’s original assembly instructions. I use these male spade connectors for a perfect fit. I also use Polymaker’s new HT-PLA-GF filament, which I find absolutely wonderful. It is extremely tough, but also has a higher heat resistance rating in comparison to other PLA based filaments.
 

Comment & Rating (79)

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Boosted
printer in PETG, everything fit very nice EXCEP i had to trim the edge closest to the battery otherwise the battery would not lock in (added pictures of what it looks like after modding) Also, streamed 1080p youtube to a single device, and got about 8.5 hours with a 12.0 battery
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Interesting... wonder if it was just a difference in tolerances with PTEG vs PLA?
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Replying to @iamsomewhere :
looks like they are using a newer forge battery, perhaps it has a slightly different geometry there
designer
1
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Boosted
Replying to @iamsomewhere :
everything else fit perfect, just that section i had to trim about an 1/8" off.
(Edited)
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EDIT: I have learned that I was misinformed and low voltage cut off IS required. thanks for the clarification. I’m leaving the original comment for reference. My understanding is that Milwaukee batteries have builtin low voltage protection as opposed to Dewalt which relies on the tools to protect the battery. I believe in this model you would not require the voltage protection module. I could be wrong of course but that is how I always understood it to work. I am looking forward to printing this in the near future for our summer trips with our Starlink.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
8
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Hey there! Thanks for the comment. I did some research and like DeWalt, the only way the M18 batteries have low-voltage protection is when used in combination with Milwaukee power tools. So, without them being attached to the tool, the batteries are just as vulnerable to low voltage discharge/damage as the DeWalt batteries, unfortunately.
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Don't know where you seen that but that is not correct. pretty much all batteries have thier low voltage cut off in the tool. Ryobi and Ridgid 18v batteries are the exception.
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I couldn’t be happier for this. I built mine for the Milwaukee battery. I have tried several different battery solutions for the Starlink but nothing comes close to this. THANK YOU!
designer
1
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can you tell me how you got it to work? I have mine all hooked up and it doesn’t power on the dish
0
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Replying to @mehoff :
It looks like you have put it together right. Did you check it with a volt meter. I have built two now and they both worked right away
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Replying to @GVIIDriver :
I had the wire backwards on one of the connectors on the board. lol my bad
0
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amazing work! May I make a wish for BOSCH Professional 18V 4.0Ah battery, model is GBA18V40?
The designer has replied
designer
2
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I can definitely look into it!
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Replying to @iamsomewhere :
thank you so much! really looking forward to it
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if I am not mistaken all 18v bosch batteries use the same style connector, so you should be able to use other Ah batteries aswell not only model GBA18V40
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Printed in PA12-CF. I had to trim about 3mm from the back lip to fit the battery. Great piece of engineering.
(Edited)
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 15% infill (Gyroid)
Awesome adaptation for the M18 battery! Thanks! This printed great in black ASA
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Awesome design. I did have to modify it a tiny bit so that battery would seat all the way in properly but very well made!
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what did you modify? I can’t get my batteries to lock in.
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Replying to @Texnology :
I’ll take a look when I get home and see what I had done to it.
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Replying to @Texnology :
So it looks like I just trimmed the very very front. I didn’t redesign it. I simply took my nipping pliers and just cut it back a little bit. It was preventing the battery from going all the way in.
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any chance you can make this printable on an A1?
The designer has replied
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Should be printable on an A1, as the bed size is the same as the P1S, X1C, etc. Did you mean A1-Mini?
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Replying to @iamsomewhere :
when I go to print it I’m met with a notice stating “incompatible printer” and I have an A1.
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Replying to @FilthyCreations :
Have you changed the printer in the top left corner of the slicer to "A1"? Sometimes it loads a different printer from the profile and you just need to change it in the slicer to your actual printer.
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Great model thanks. Any change you could change it so it can take two M18 batteries?
The designer has replied
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Thanks for the suggestion! This design is intentionally single-pack to stay slim and light. A dual-M18 setup adds a lot of bulk and raises parallel-pack safety/compatibility issues. For longer runtime, a quick swap or a higher-capacity M18 is the cleaner route.
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Replying to @iamsomewhere :
Thanks for answering. No worries, I am more looking at adding two batteries in series for more voltage. Might go down the battery box route. Cheers.
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Replying to @Bundybear :
Out of curiosity, what would be the advantage of running it at higher voltage?
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Any chance of adding the A1 printer?
The designer has replied
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It should fit. Do you just need a .3mf specifically for the A1-Mini?
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Replying to @iamsomewhere :
Yes, but for the A1-Mini's big brother, the A1.
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I have the A1, not the mini, so it should fit?
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