About

This is an actively heated enclosure for Python AMS. It can be used with up to four PolyMaker PolyDryers. There is also an Passively Dried Enclosure available. The printed parts are actually the same, it's just the front and rear panels that are different but I prefer to keep them apart for different reasons.

For most user cases, one or two dryers should be sufficient but it depends on what type of filament you often print as well as the humidity of the area where you like.

Support for more types of heaters may be added later on.

It's a good idea to also use the Python AMS - Silica Gel Boxes to maintain low humidity inside the box when the dryers are inactive.

Support

All my designs and mods on Printables are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering

BOM - Bill of Materials

I suggest printing the enclosure in PETG, ABS, ASA, PA or PC as it can get pretty hot inside the enclosure when the dryers have been running for a while so PLA will likely deform due to the heat.

Around 1 Kg of filament is required at the recommended print settings.

I've printed most of the test builds in Prusament ASA and Prusament PC-CF.

Panels

• 3 mm Acrylic or PC panels cut according to the included DXF drawings.
• 6 x 3 mm round Neodymium Magnets: 8 pcs

M3 Heated Inserts

46 pcs are needed. It was designed for 4.00 mm long inserts (commonly named M3S or M3 Short).

• M3 Heated Inserts (select 4.5 mm OD, 4 mm length)

You could technically skip the heated inserts and use longer M3's, washers and nuts but for a permanent solution or when you need to open the enclosure for AMS maintenance it will be much easier with heated inserts. Heated inserts will also look much cleaner.

Fasteners

The following M3 socket heads are required: M3-8 mm: 46 pcs, M3-16 mm: 12 pcs, M3-25 mm: 8 pcs.

If you don't have any at home it's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and more:

• 1100 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Kit

Magnets

8 pcs of round 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets are required.

• 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets

Tools and others

• Soldering Iron
• 3M 4229P VHB Double Sided tape

Print Settings

All parts print without supports and I recommend using 3 walls and an infill of around 15%. Print all parts in the direction I have set them.

The handle has the text “Python AMS” hidden in the first layer that you can paint with your AMS if you like, use the Paint Bucket Tool in Bambu Studio:

Print one of each part except for the M14 plugs (see section at the bottom), polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mf, enclosure-cutout-seal-rear-1.00.3mf and enclosure-cutout-seal-front-1.00.3mf.

The gasket lock installs on the inside of the enclosure to lock the PolyDryer in place so for one dryer you need two of these, depends on the number of dryers you use of course:

polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mf

Be aware that the gasket locks may not fully support the weight of the PolyDryer as the “tabs” on the dryers are so short so in addition to the gasket locks I would suggest using double sided tape on the dryer against the panel, I use 3M 4229P VHB myself (not pictured but will be covered in the assembly guide later).

What about the enclosure cutout seals? They're used in the enclosure cutouts where you don't use any dryer, it's to fully seal the enclosure. Let's say you just want to try with two PolyDryers first and place them in the front of the enclosure. You then must seal up the rear cutouts with the cutout seals. So print as many of these (front + rear of each) you need for your setup.

The cutouts in the panels are also compatible with the airlocks that come with the PolyDryer, two of them are included with a single Polydryer.

Assembly Guide

A detailed step-by-step assembly guide with pictures is coming next week but here's a short guide that should do for now, it's not difficult:

First of all, use a soldering tool to insert all M3 heated inserts in both the bottom, top and edge parts.

All printed parts are marked with FL = Front Left, FR = Front Right, RL = Rear Left and RR = Rear Right.

Next, start with the four “bottom” parts and join them with 8 x M3-25 mm socket heads. Place the bottom panel on the bottom and fasten it with 6 x M3-8 mm socket heads to the bottom part. Take notice of the panel direction, you may need to flip it so the screw holes match up.

The next thing to do is to place Python AMS in the enclosure. The rear is towards the square M14 cutouts. Next, insert the front, side and rear panels, they will slide in place. Take notice of the panel directions for all four panels, you may need to flip them so the screw holes match up.

Next, fasten Python AMS with 4 x M3-16 mm through the side bottom panels.

You can then slide over the printed “top” parts over the panels.

Next, press in a neodymium magnet into each corner of the “edge” parts before placing the edges inside the top parts. Do the same for the top panel and also attach the handle with 4 x M3-16 mm screws. Make sure the magnets' pole direction matches between the edges and the top panel, else just press out the magnet and flip it and press it in again.

The edge is where the top panel rests on and it's attached with M3-8 mm socket heads through the top parts and the panels themselves. Screw in M3-8 mm screws in all panel holes. Done!

M14 Plugs

Now with the enclosure complete, you need to decide which setup for the rear plugs you will use. There are plently of M14 holes and unless you use the external spool function for all four spool slots like the render below, most of them you should seal with M14 solid plugs (m14-solid-1.00.3mf).

One plug you must use is the M14 plug for the AMS cable, it comes in two parts and you install it over the cable like this before inserting and tightening it. It's a good idea to route it like the render above.

For the rest of the M14 holes use the PTFE or solid plugs to have the enclosure fully sealed.