Buy Python AMS

I've teamed up with a few different stores around the world offering the printed parts and everything you need for the build so you won't need anything outside of the kit:

• VOXELPLA (United States)
• 3DCNCDesignServices (EU and UK)

If you're interested in the panels only for the enclosure, you can buy them from LaserFoundry.

• LaserFoundry (United States)

Python AMS has a strict non-commercial license, it can only be sold with licensing through Hume Beam Engineering Solutions. 

Update October 28, 2024

The bottom rear left and bottom rear right printed parts have been optimized. The plugs now sit 3 mm higher up and the cutouts enlarged so the AMS bus cable (black cable) is easier to pass through. 

If you're using an earlier version of the enclosure and have issues passing through the cable, you may find it easier if you feed through the cable before you screw down the bottom panel.

There are no changes to the other parts.

Update October 20, 2024

I've added instructions on how to optimize the PTFE routing and also added a small coupler for the M14 plugs, please view the assembly guide at the bottom of the page.

Update October 14, 2024

The Python AMS Enclosure has been updated to version 1.03. There are some minor fixes but the main change is it is now much easier to build and assemble as the M3 socket heads now screw directly to the printed parts (same as with the earlier threaded version) and everything is marked more clearly.

However, if you still want to use heated inserts for your Python Enclosure build, please download the version from the folder “heated-inserts-version”. Add a heated insert to all locations with a crossmark. You need around 50 x 4.0 mm long M3 heated inserts (M3S short inserts), the rest of the build and BOM is the same.

If you need help on how to install the heated inserts, please view the uploaded PDF: python-heated-inserts-instructions-updated-october-16-2024.pdf

First screw together the four “bottom” parts with the 25 mm socket heads as per the assembly instructions a few scrolls down. The side with the cutouts in the bottom is the rear, this is where the PTFE tubes and cables exit.

Next, place the “top” parts with the parts with the debossing facing the correct way, so those parts with “rear” is facing rear and so on. 

Then do the same so the “edge” parts, placed just in front the “top” parts.

If the holes of the panels don't match up exactly, simply flip the panel around horizontally and you should be good to go, the panels are close but not fully symmetrical.

About

This is an actively heated enclosure for Python AMS. It can be used with up to four PolyMaker PolyDryers. There is also an Passively Dried Enclosure available. The printed parts are actually the same, it's just the front and rear panels that are different but I prefer to keep them apart for different reasons.

For most user cases, one or two dryers should be sufficient but it depends on what type of filament you often print as well as the humidity of the area where you like.

Support for more types of heaters may be added later on.

It's a good idea to also use the Python AMS - Silica Gel Boxes to maintain low humidity inside the box when the dryers are inactive.

The size of the enclosure is 460.0 mm (width) x 390.5 mm (depth) x 293.0 mm (height).

How effective is it? 

In my experiment, with three fully dried silica gel containers, a near full Prusament PETG spool in a Python spool holder dropped from 1233 g to 1171 g, 62 grams! Two PolyDryers used at the max setting for 6 hours, one rear mounted and one front mounted. 

Just using the dryers without the silica gel boxes is not nearly as effective so don't forget to use those with dried silica gel.

Likewise, having silica gel in the enclosure will keep the relative humidity at a minimum and keep the spools dry but to actually dry the spools, both dry silica gel and heaters must be used.

How many dryers should I use?

it depends on your usage. For most, two PolyDryers should be sufficient.

Support

All my designs and mods on MakerWorld are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering

BOM - Bill of Materials

I suggest printing the enclosure in PETG, ABS, ASA, PA or PC as it can get pretty hot inside the enclosure when the dryers have been running for a while so PLA will likely deform due to the heat.

Around 1 Kg of filament is required at the recommended print settings. 

I've printed most of the test builds in Prusament ASA and Prusament PC-CF.

Panels

• 3 mm Acrylic or PC panels cut according to the included DXF drawings.

Fasteners

The following M3 socket heads are required: 

• Top screw holes (with the edges): 16 x M3-12 mm
• Middle screw holes 8 x M3-10 mm
• Lower screw holes : 20 x M3-10 mm
• Bottom of the enclosure (dovetails): 8 x M3-25 mm
• Handle: 4 x M3-16 mm
• Attaching the bottom panel: 6 x M3-8 mm
• Optionally securing Python to the enclosure: 4 x M3-16 mm

To summarize, the follow M3 socket heads are needed:

• 6 x M3-8 mm
• 28 x M3-10 mm
• 16 x M3-12 mm
• 8 x M3-16 mm
• 8 x M3-25 mm

If you don't have any at home it's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and more:

• 1100 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Kit

Magnets

8 pcs of round 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets are required.

• 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets

Tools and others

• Soldering Iron
• 3M 4229P VHB Double Sided tape

Downloading the DXF files

Click the green dropdown list then select "Download STL". The click “Download All” and you will get DXF files as well.

Print Settings

All parts print without supports and I recommend using 3 walls and an infill of around 15%. Print all parts in the direction I have set them.

The handle has the text “Python AMS” hidden in the first layer that you can paint with your AMS if you like, use the Paint Bucket Tool in Bambu Studio:

Print one of each part except for the M14 plugs (see section at the bottom), polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.03.3mf, enclosure-cutout-seal-rear-1.03.3mf and enclosure-cutout-seal-front-1.03.3mf.

The gasket lock installs on the inside of the enclosure to lock the PolyDryer in place so for one dryer you need two of these, depends on the number of dryers you use of course:

polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.03.3mf

Be aware that the gasket locks may not fully support the weight of the PolyDryer as the “tabs” on the dryers are so short so in addition to the gasket locks I would suggest using double sided tape on the dryer against the panel, I use 3M 4229P VHB myself.

What about the enclosure cutout seals? They're used in the enclosure cutouts where you don't use any dryer, it's to fully seal the enclosure. Let's say you just want to try with two PolyDryers first and place them in the front of the enclosure. You then must seal up the rear cutouts with the cutout seals. So print as many of these (front + rear of each) you need for your setup.

The cutouts in the panels are also compatible with the airlocks that come with the PolyDryer, two of them are included with a single Polydryer.

Assembly Guide

The pictures below in the assembly guide are for an earlier version of the enclosure where heated inserts were used but the currently version you just screw the M3 socket heads directly to the printed parts. But the assembly is identical.

Press in a round neodymium magnet in each corner of the edges, this will hold the top panel once assembled. Take notice of the magnetic direction so it matches with the top panel.

The holes in the male dovetails of the bottom parts are threaded with an M3 thread. Use 8 x 25 mm socket heads to screw together the bottom of the bottom panels. 

Go from the female dovetail side into the male dovetail side as pictured below. Do the same for all eight dovetails. Do not fully tighten yet, you might need to adjust a little later.

Next, place the bottom panel and screw it with six screws to the bottom panels. If you're having difficulties aligning with the holes it you can carefully hand drill the holes of the panel with a 4.0 mm drill bit to expand them a little. Do not fully tighten yet.

Next, slide in the left, right, rear and front panels. Take notice of the screw holes and ensure they match up, the panels are close but not fully symmetrical. If the holes don't line up, flip the panel the other way around (horizontally).

Place the four top parts of the panels. Each side is marked with the direction it is facing so left, rear, right and front.

Screw the handle to the top panel. Press in the four remaining magnets in each corner of the top panel. They are press fit, make sure to match the magnetic direction with the edge parts.

Screw the four “edges” to the top panels. This provides a seal and is also used for the top panel to rest on. It can be a little difficult to align everything here but take your time and you should be able to screw everything together. Take notice of the direction of the printed parts, just like the “top” parts, each part is marked with the direction it should be facing.

Screw in the rear M14 plugs as per your configuration. This here is for four external spools routes, one regular AMS PTFE route and one AMS cable.

The AMS cable plug comes in two halves. Place the cable in the middle, route through the AMS connector inside then screw the plug in.

Place your Python AMS inside the enclosure. You don't have to unscrew anything of the enclosure, just carefully bend the sides and it will slide inside.

Fasten Python to the enclosure with three M3-16 mm screws from the outside in.

Seal up the enclosure holes for the PolyDryers you're not using. For example, I'm using two front mounted PolyDryers so I seal up the four rear holes. You can then add additional dryers later if you like.

The enclosure is also compatible with the seals that come with the PolyDryer (two seals are included per PolyDryer), just showing both options here.

Finally, tighten all M3 socket head screws fully.

Optimizing the PTFE outlet routing

If you use an earlier version of the enclosure you may find that the PTFE tube from the Python AMS is turned upwards a bit more than desired and the plug in the enclosure sits quite low, the causes the PTFE tubing to bend quite a bit which can result in the tube wearing out prematurely. 

If so you can print the latest version of the motor mount module from the Python AMS page and replace your current one:

• motor-rear-print-1pc-1.03b.3mf

With the version above, the motor angle has been optimized so it doesn't cause the PTFE tube to bend too much.

If you're still not fully satisfied you can mark and drill a 4 mm hole in the rear panel a few cm straight above the plug that sits just behind the PTFE outlet from Python and route the PTFE tube through it instead. That's the quick and easy solution.

For a more permanent and sealed solution, drill this hole with a 14 mm drill bit instead. A simple drill bit for wood works great.

It actually doesn't have to be 14 mm drill bit, anything from 14-18 mm is fine, the important thing is that it's large enough for the M14 plug to go through.

The cutout doesn't have to be round either so you can just use a Dremel if you don't have a drill, the cutout isn't visible once assembled so it doesn't really matter what it looks like, just make sure the plug and coupler fully cover the hole.

Next, print the the M14 plug coupler and use whatever M14 plug you use to route the PTFE tube through, most would use the normal M14 PTFE plug here.

• m14-coupler-for-rear-panel-1.03.3mf
• m14-ptfe-1.03.3mf

The M14 plug and the coupler simply screw together, tighening against the panel on both sides.

All done! 

Which M14 Plugs to use?

You need to decide which setup for the rear plugs you will use. There are plently of M14 holes and unless you use the external spool function for all four spool slots like the render below, most of them you should seal with M14 solid plugs (m14-solid-1.03.3mf).

One plug you must use is the M14 plug for the AMS cable, it comes in two parts and you install it over the cable like this before inserting and tightening it. It's a good idea to route it like the render above. 

Tip: If you're using the external spool function I recommend using the M14 with PC4-M10 or PC4-M10 couplers both inside and outside the enclosure, then you can just disconnect the PTFE tubes and lift out the whole Python AMS assembly for easy maintenance.

For the rest of the M14 holes use the PTFE or solid plugs to have the enclosure fully sealed.