I made a faithful recreation of the Deathy Hallows emblem that sandwiches a few pieces together to make a decorative light fixture running WLED on a Wemos D1 Mini v3. Yes… it's another birthday present 🤣

You'll need:

• Black Filament
• Clear/Natural Filament
• WS2812B LEDs (60/m, non-weatherproof!)
• Wemos D1 Mini v3 (v3 is very important!)
• 2x M2.3x5 self tapping screws
• a USB-C Snap-in jack
• Some Gel CA glue

Printing Considerations

I used FilaCube HT-PLA+ Natural for the clear parts, which act as a retainer and diffuser. I printed very slowly (50mm/s) to make them as clear as possible, but perhaps printing faster and getting a foggier effect may be desired. I think the clear helps for light to catch the circle and light it up passively, which is a neat effect. This change is done as a swap-at-layer so only a single filament change is necessary.

I also used AnyCubic HS PLA for the black parts, which printed nice and fast. The entire model is built around line widths and layer heights so as to minimize travel and over-all print time. If you slice it yourself, set your line widths to 0.42mm across the board or it might get funky.

There are very sharp edges, so use of a clean textured PEI plate is suggested, with your AUX fan capped at 40% to prevent the chances of warping and release. I did not have any issues at all using these values.

Buildin' It

I started by printing the first plate, “Face Outside,” which is black only. This one is where your LEDs get installed. Make sure and wipe it down with an alcohol prep pad to ensure good adhesion. I started by lining one LED up with the middle of the print and working away from the hole, taking care to pack the strip in to the corners as much as possible so the mating piece will fit properly once printed. You should end up with 13 LEDs per side.

Squeeze them in as tight as you safely can!

From there, test-fit your “Face Bottom” piece to make sure it lines up. If it's off by a little bit because it's catching the LED strip, try to either re-position your LEDs or you may want to use clamps to hold the two pieces down while the glue dries.

There is a lip on this piece, I ran a thin line of CA glue around this lip as it mates up nicely. Glue along the insides or on the transparent parts is not necessary, it holds together more than adequately with the outer lip only.

Push the wires for your LED through the hole in the base. The pieces are keyed to fit together. I spread a zig-zag of CA glue along the bottom of the emblem and held it to the base for a minute. You may wish to use clamps here as well to give it time to cure completely.

Push the USB-C Snap-in in to place, and solder it up. VCC and Grounds can be joined together then connected to the D1, I used D8 (GPIO15) for my data pin on the LEDs. Secure the D1 with the two screws on the standoffs.

The base should friction-fit together nicely, but if yours is loose for some reason you can always put a few drops of glue to hold it together more solidly. I would not suggest completely gluing it shut just in case you need to get back to the D1 at some point for whatever reason.

Play with your settings in WLED! Some effects look awesome when mirrored, some look great with offsets and defining multiple segments to identify each side of the triangle independently.