This is yet another filament drybox design based on the IKEA 365+ 10.6L container, suitable for two spools and equipped with a hygrometer and space for desiccant.

Although there are many similar designs available, I created this one because none of the others met my specific requirements:

• A snug and stable fit in the IKEA 10.6L box.
• Space for a bag of desiccant. I prefer using the simple organza bags that came with the silica gel, as they allow me to easily see the color of the beads.
• The desiccant is visibly positioned at the front of the box so I can quickly check the color of the beads and know when they need to be replaced. This is crucial for me, as the color of the desiccant needs to be constantly monitored. If it's not recharged when needed, it's ineffective. In other dryboxes, the silica gel is often neatly enclosed, but I don't understand how they know when to replace it.
• A designated spot for a round hygrometer.
• The hygrometer is tilted 45 degrees upwards, which is crucial because I store the boxes under my printer desk and need to see the readings while standing. This is very important to me; if I couldn't easily see the readings from above at a glance, as is the case with other dry boxes where the hygrometer faces forward, it would defeat the purpose of having a hygrometer.
• Simple, stable support for two spools. This ensures that even if the box is tilted forward, the spools remain in place. Even with just one spool inside, it won't shift to the side, leaving room for another spool without needing to rearrange the existing one.
• Low filament usage (less than 80g) as I need to print many of these for all my open spools.
• Since I’m using Bambulab AMS, I have no use for the rollers that some other dryboxes have to feed the filament to the 3D printer, so this functionality is intentionally not included in this design.
• The model is designed to be a single printed piece that fits on the Bambulab P1S/X1C plate, utilizing almost the entire space on the plate. It may be a bit tricky to place it on the plate, but it’s doable. I provide a print profile with the correct placement for convenience.

This model meets all my needs and is working great so far.

Regarding printing, there’s nothing particularly special required. The design has minimal support, and I use tree supports, which are very easy to remove. It might not even be necessary, though I haven’t tried printing without. I used 5% infill to keep filament usage minimal.

If you use Orca Slicer, you can add Mouse Ear brims to be on the safe side. However, I found that it printed perfectly well without. I avoided setting brims all around because it would slow down the printing process and be a hassle to remove.