Side Filament Guide Arm for P1P / P1S / X1C by suit1337

suit1337

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

40 min

1 plate

4.8(32)

Boost

176

308

203

Released

Description

Side Filemant Guide for the P1P if you use a Side Mounted Spool Arm / Holder

It is designed to screw directly into the left upper frame of the printer, for extra stability and in the back of the frame, where it replaces the original PTFE coupler (or my replacement for that)

BOM

2 x PC4-M10 connectors or PC4-M6 (Amazon Affiliate Link)
2 x Original PTFE tube guide screws
1 x M3x12 + washer/spacer
15 cm of PTFE tube
optional: Bambu Lab P1P Heavy Duty Side Spool Arm

Printing

check, which threads your PC4-M10 connectors has: they do not specify the thread pitch. if a regular M10 nut fits, then it is M10x1.5 mm - if not, it is most likely MF10x1.0 (or even MF10x0.9) even it says “M10” - you might pick the right file to print. PC4-M6 usually has M6x1.0 threads, if you encounter different threads just drop me a line

i recommend PETG with 0,12 mm layer height, 6 wall loops and a moderate amount of infill 25 % is enough, since there is an internal structual support directly modelled in - if you print with larger layer heights, you may need to use “gentle force” to thread in the connectors

Assembly

check if the PTFE-Tube fits, if not, you might drill out the hole with a 4,2 to 4,5 mm drill
Thread in the 2 PC4 connectors
insert the PTFE-Tube, to avoid jams, it needs to be coaxial with the back bore - if it is not, you might soften it gently with a heatgun or shorten it a few mm
Remove the PTFE Guide and save the screws
Screw in the filament arm in the back with those 2 screws
put the M3x12 screw through hole on the side and the spacer around and screw it into the left upper frame - the hole there is not tapped, so a firm press and slow, straigt and steady will cut threads into the thin metal beam (you also can use a tap, if you have one)

note that this step can't be done on the X1/X1C or P1C without drilling through the side

Notes

The radius of the arm matches modplates with a maximum thickness of 3 mm - if you have thinner pieces, it might leave a small gap or might not fit at all on thicker pieces

the gap between the outside edge of your enclosure and the left beam of the printer frame should measure 5,5 mm (the provided spacer distance)

if you're looking for a matching enclosure, the Minimal Enclosure fits perfectly

Comment & Rating (32)

@Avenger

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Adjusted the model slightly so that it wouldn't interfere with a Y-Splitter, printed well. Just used hot glue to secure the tube as I don't have any of the couplers.

(Edited)

@motorola2001

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Seamless printing

@user_291012050

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Great print, nice design that works spot on.

@253Bigfoot

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Works perfectly for my needs

@nprint.info

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

genial

(Edited)

@cBoLsmUiEc

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Perfekt, genau das was ich gesucht habe. passt auch auf die rechte Seite. PETG, X1C

@Keekje

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Thanks for the design! works really good with the side arm and spool roller

@Marocy

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Printer: P1S Material: PLA File: Filament Guide Arm M10x1.5 v17 there was no problem printing the model only qualms was both getting of the supports and threading in the 2 x PC4-M10 connectors was a pain something to add to the description for the BOM should go in depth to what type/size of Spacers should be used i used M3 1mm Socket Screw Spacer https://www.printables.com/model/437944-m3-socket-screw-spacer-set/files