Customizable Rotating Desktop Tool Stand V2

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Customizable Rotating Desktop Tool Stand V2

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Print Profile(1)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
6.9 h
4 plates
4.2(6)

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3
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Released

Description

PB's Rotating Tools Desk Stand V2

This is a fully customizable model for creating your own rotating desk stand. Using

the OpenSCAD file included, you can customize most parameters of the object to create

exactly what you need.

 

For convenience, I have included a .3mf file for a Bambu Labs P1S with default settings that

work well for creating a desk stand for your Cricut tools. The individual STL files have also

been included.

 

Only the top part with the hooks really needs supports, the other parts you can print as you wish.

I prefer to use an outer brim with most of the models, but that's largely down to personal

preference.

 

You can stack as many of the shafts as you want to create taller version of the stand. If you

use more than two shaft elements you should consider using the alternative base STL that's

included that has a wider brim, allowing your object to stand more stable.

Assembly

After printing, carefully remove the brims and the supports for the hooks. No glue is required

to assemble the model.


You need at least a cap, a rotating top, a shaft and a base.

 

You can screw together all parts of the model. When you first do that, be careful and gentle.

The first time screwing the model together may be difficult sometimes but some gentle wiggling

goes a long way. Do not try to force anything. The rods will likely break when you do. This

is due to the chosen print-orientation, which gives the prettiest result, but makes the screws

slightly weak against excessive rotational forces.

Words of warning about filament choice

Because of the orientation of the hooks, and the way that the rotating top is oriented for

printing, make sure that you do not use filaments with a weak layer adhesion. Specifically

when using Matte filaments I noticed that the hooks can become too weak and will easily snap

off. When using such filaments be sure to ensure proper layer adhesion.

Creating a custom version using OpenSCAD
You can use Bambu's parametric model maker from the MakerLab with the included SCAD file to

easily create your four customized downloadable models.

 

This model consists of four parts, you should individually render each of the parts by

setting the stage parameter to a value between 1 and 4. After changing these parameters,

be sure to create new models for stage 1, 2, 3 and 4.

 

The other parameters can be changed as follows:

 

  • Change baseRadius and baseHeight to configure how wide the cone-shaped part of the object's base is.
  • Change baseBottomRadius and baseBottomHeight to configure the size of the brim.
  • Change shaftRadius to change the outer dimensions of the shaft
  • Change shaftHeight to increase or decrease the length of the individual shaft components
  • The properties of the rods and nuts that you use to screw together the model can be configured using shaftScrewRadius, shaftScrewLength and screwTolerance
  • Change topHeight and topRadius to change the dimensions of the rotating top.
  • Change numHooks to increase the number of hooks.
  • Change hookRadius to make the individual hooks wider, then change hookWidthScale to widen or narrow down the hooks.
  • Change hookSize to change the diameter of the hook's loop.
  • Change capHullHeight and capRadius to change the top-cap of the model.
  • Change tolerance (in mm) to increase the clearance between the top hole and the rod connecting it to the shaft.
  • Change edge toincrease or reduce the size (in mm) of the rounded edges. I'm not using minowski in this model but a basic hull using an extruded circle.
  • Configure screwPitch and screwSlope if you changed the diameter of the rods and nuts.

Update June 6th:

  • Due to rounding in the slicer, the thread in the model file in Cap.stl is 0.8mm wider after slicing/printing than the thread for the shaft-elements. This causes the cap to often not fit and break when forced in. I added a ‘Cap-New.stl' file with a better-fitting cap; the print profile is also updated to use this.

 


 

Comment & Rating (17)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
took a lot of tinkering to get it to print right, but once it did, it turned out incredible! for anyone struggling to print the actual rotating part, try adding supports at a 60° minimum. They're very difficult to remove but it definitely helps with adhesion and stringing issues. (original review was a 1 star explaining said issues, but thankfully it's now been resolved thanks to some very helpful suggestions)
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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@jbg801 that's quite unfortunate, what have you tried? I am printing these myself on a PEI Textured build plate, with a 5mm brim. I do make sure the plate is clean and heated to 55 degrees when using the Bambu PLA filaments. These settings match the print profile that I posted.
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Replying to @userBunchofnumb :
I'm currently using SUNLU PLA+, which I've found to be functionally identical to Bambu PLA for about half the price. I've tried heating the bed more, increasing the brim as high as 8mm from default, increasing layer size, decreasing layer size. I've cleaned the bed (included textured PEI plate) with isopropyl alcohol and even tried flipping it over to the currently unused backside. I've tried forcing it onto the slow preset (50% speed) and the sport preset (125%) and in both cases it still disconnected from the bed I've also tried forcing it to use the part fan all the time, and not at all just to see if that'd make a difference, in both cases, not at all. the base and stand both printed totally fine, but the spinning head for some reason just refused to print cleanly (P1S with AMS)
(Edited)
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Replying to @jbg0801 :
I agree that the cheaper brands like SUNLU do not necessarily perform worse than the more expensive brands. I read good things about Sunlu, and I do not have any bad experiences with it myself either. Did you try washing the textured PEI plate thoroughly with warm water and soap? Sometimes isopro just doesn't degrease as well as plain old water and soap; especially if it's the same bit that gets knocked over every time. I'd also consider setting the build plate temperature for the PEI plate to 60 instead of 55 to improve adhesion. You could also try going back to the standard printing profile as you downloaded it, and make some adjustments in supports. I have been playing around with these a bit and wanted to test them, but I can't do that right now because my printer is busy for the next 20-ish hours... However, the results look promising in the slicer: enabling the advanced options for the slicer, on the Support tab, keep Type on normal (auto), set style to grid, and set the threshold to 60. If you slice this, you see that the hooks also end up being supported on the side, providing at least some emotional support for the tiny unsupported vertical bits. This might help, but it also might not and just make support removal harder.
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I love it! made this one to put on my tying desk. I extended the pole so I can use it for fly tying material.
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PETG & PLA PRO bothe snapped, Is there a way you can change the cap so that it is loosely on there? The rods thread to each other pretty well. 🤷‍♂️
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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I had this problem myself also when I first printed the model without any tolerance, that's why there is 0.8mm tolerance on the nuts and rods now. If you need more tolerance, you can use the customization tool to customize the model yourself for this: There is a screwTolerance setting that you can increase from 0.8 to e.g. 1.2mm that will increase the space surrounding the threads. I'll try to find some time today to create an additional plate with some additional tolerance so it's easier to use filaments that print less crisp than the BBL PLA.
(Edited)
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The issue was not in the tolerance per se but in inconsistent rounding in the slicer. Even though in the model all threads are equally big, the thread on the rod on the cap would end up 0.8mm larger than the others. I uploaded a new version of the cap in the Cap-New.stl file, so you just need to print that one model to fix the issue. The primary print profile is also updated for this.
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Support Issue:hooks wouldn't print kept breaking
The designer has replied
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What kind of filament did you use? Some filament types (e.g. matte filaments and probably silk) are not suitable to print this model with. This is because there is no practical way to print the top disc in any other direction than it is oriented now. This means that the hooks are printed orthogonal to the layer direction, meaning they are prone to snapping if a filament is used that easily separates at layer level. When using plain PLA(+) or PETG at the recommended temperature you'll find that the hooks are actually quite sturdy and can withstand quite some force. I did experiment with printing this model using Bambu Matte PLA and the hooks would basically already snap off if you as much as looked at them. The ones I printed with plain PLA and you can apply a lot of force and they won't budge.
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If they snap while printing, it's possibly a bed adhesion issue, not a support issue. These hooks are touching the build plate on both sides and they have a 5mm brim to prevent them from falling over while they are printed. If despite the brim they still fall over during printing (snap?), then that probably means that the filament does not stick to the build plate enough. Typical fixes would be to increase the brim size, ensure the build plate is properly cleaned (with water and soap or isopropyl), use glue or change the bed temperature to improve adhesion. I just finished another test print with the most difficult to print RPLA I have and there was no problem during printing (which is a miracle because it's almost impossible to get this stuff to stick to anything). After printing I used a bowscale to measure the force required to intentionally snap off a hook, and it required almost 10lbs of force to snap one off.
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
(Edited)
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