P1P Anti-Sound Enclosure

P1P Anti-Sound Enclosure

Boost
22
29
13

Print Profile(1)

All
P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
51.4 h
25 plates
4.5(4)

Boost
22
29
13
2
48
17
Released

Description

Description

This P1P frame includes slots for 16in x 12in x 3/8in acoustic panels to reduce sound and provide an affordable way to enclose the P1P. Designed to be cheap - no expensive fasteners, acrylic, or other extra hardware beyond small magnets and the mentioned foam. I've also included the fusion 360 files so you can modify it as you wish!

 

V0.4 “The Lid” Update: The first working version of the lid is now available! Finally! This update includes the lid assembly files as well as minor updates to the doors and middle top pieces for printability! Note that the lid is more complicated to print - be careful of print orientation.

V0.4.1: Updated the back plates to be slightly longer and have more pins for a stronger hold. I will print these to test them soon.

V0.4.2: Updated the back top columns to include indents for screw clearance - there are preinstalled screws on the back of the frame that would be in the way without these added indents.

 

Assembly Notes:

Main Frame:

  • The door parts barely fit onto the print bed, take care when positioning them.
  • Gluing a small 3mm magnet to the door behind the handle is recommended as a way to keep the door closed.
  • The door foam panel will need to be cut to fit into the door. Easily doable with a boxcutter.
  • The first left upper column (that holds the upper door hinge) needs supports - set the supports setting to 0 degrees and generate.

Lid:

  • I recommend printing the front corner pieces of the lid facing upward (most visible outer corners facing up) using tree supports. It's not optimal plastic wise but ensures the curved outer corner prints nicely.
  • Attaching the back middle piece might require a 3rd screw to counteract warping, I've included a hole for it in the design. The currently installed one is too short, so I used a longer screw of the same type that came as spares with the printer.
  • Assemble the lid in the following sequence:
    • Connect the front 3 pieces together first.
    • Connect the left and right pieces next.
    • Slide in the foam panel (this will need to be shortened in length)
    • Connect the back corner pieces.
    • Connect the 3 back hinge pieces.
    • Finally, connect the lid hinge gears to the back plate hinge gears.

 

To-Do:

  • Optimize design
  • Make instructions

Known Issues:

  • The door needs some glue to keep the two parts together - the slots are not perfectly designed.

Let me know if you have any questions, and feel free to remix and improve!

 

https://ko-fi.com/jumbify

Comment & Rating (13)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Besides needing to glue the door together the fitment and the print went great, for the panels in the lid mine measured 14.7"x12" and the door was 14"x12.
The designer has replied
1
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Love your choice of color!
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Good luck with your build! It's not a perfect design, but it's worked well for me.
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Thanks bro and I’ll prolly keep putting pics up if it’s gonna give me points for each pic but yea I really liked your design a lot. I was needin a low cost rnclosurement and yours looked great. I’ll put pic up when completed as well
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Hi Jumbify! I like your model a lot. I also have the p1p and have noticed that it is extremely loud. I went ahead and bought some parts before stumbling onto your post. Currently I have the top and front glass parts from bambu labs with the p1s front panel and cable chain on the way. I was wondering if your model will support those that have already bought the top and front glass pieces? I would be mostly thinking to use the side pieces with some kind of dampening foam to mitigate the sound. Would that work? Or would I need to build the whole model for it to function? Thank you for your time, Great model!!
The designer has replied
2
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I think any amount of sound dampening panels would help! However, to make the front door work I think you would need to modify the front pillars. Top glass should work fine without any modifications.
(Edited)
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Replying to @Jumbify :
Gottcha! Thanks for the response I am trying to piece it together. I thought that I could just mirror the side columns but unfortunately I found out that there are small discrepancies. So now I am printing the left columns. I will try to edit out the hinges so that it will be one uniform column. The glass door fits which is good, I did have to print a new handle. I got my cable chain yesterday, so once I install all the side panels I will put it on. Currently I am running at 55 decibels, so once I am done tinkering with the printer I hope to get 40, that would be nice. I will keep you updated and post a photo once I finish it. Cheers Only issue I have so far is the glass top, I will try to work on a solution, but the panels are coming together nicely.
(Edited)
2
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do you have the cooling system for you Mainboard with this enclosure ?
The designer has replied
0
Reply
I don’t - I’ve left the back side open however. When I decide to do more difficult to print things, I’ll likely get the mainboard fan.
1
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Sport Modus hat die drücke sehr schlecht werden lassen (einwenig wäre ok aber das sind echt viele Fehler)
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where did you bought this panels?
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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