I’ve tried a few of these off Maker World, but they didn't fit together nicely, or work well enough for me, so I thought I’d design one to do just what I needed, and that was simple to print and assemble.

The unit I came up with sits on top of your P1S where the glass would go - it adds 5cm or 2” of height and matches the case shape nicely. There’s a channel all the way around on the inside for LEDs, and it fits a really nice USB/COB strip I found on Amazon that provides a continuous, unbroken strip of light all the way around, so no need for a diffuser (and general illumination + timelapses are way better now). Only a minor positive, but the extra height also stops the printhead PTFE tube catching on the case side as well.

You can keep your door shut all the time with the adjustable vent on the side too – it can be opened for lower-temperature materials like PLA, or closed to keep the heat in for ABS, nylon etc. I used magnets to lock the vent open or closed, but they turned out to be overkill as the vent slider lines up and operates perfectly anyway.

To make it easy to print without support, there are no tricky overhangs and I designed the main body to print flat with clip-on strips that go underneath to locate the unit/sit where the glass top used to be.

The main body was obviously too big to print in one go, so I cut it into quadrants and then used pegs to accurately locate all the pieces for gluing (actually I used some woodworking dowels as I have loads, but I've included printable dowels too if you need to make some.)

It’ll need to cope with some heat when the vent is shut, so any material with a decent heat tolerance is advised (I used ABS+).

So, here's what I used altogether:

- About half a roll of ASA, PC or ABS etc. for the printed parts

- (optional) 8 x standard woodworking dowels, 6 x 30mm long

- (optional) Four circular magnets 10mm dia, 3mm deep

- (optional) USB-powered LED strip – about 1.5m after trimming - Here’s the link to the one I used

Construction

1 - Take the four main pieces and glue them together making use of the dowels to help with alignment – I found it easiest to glue both left pieces together, both right pieces together, then glue the left half to the right half. Or you could do front then back, just so long as you have two halves to bring together.

2 - Snap the four strips to the underside.

3 - If you’re going to use magnets, fit two in the vent strip now and keep the polarity the same for each. There are two hidden ones in the case slot near the inside front too. For these, I made sure the south/north orientation was right first by snapping the magnet against the ones already in the vent strip, then attached them to a metal ruler and pushed them into the holes in the case slot.

4 – Put the vent strip in its slot being sure to get the magnets towards the front if you fitted some. Push a dowel into the hole to act as the vent lever.

5 - Fit the LEDs – the Bambu USB socket is at the front left behind the LCD, but I started from the front right corner because the USB lead was long enough to reach with the lead tucked neatly into the front inside lip.

This was a fun project to design and use, hope others find it useful!

Update:  I've been using mine for a while now and it fits & works great, but I've also found that the backing on the self-adhesive LEDs I used tends to soften on very long/hot print jobs, causing the strip to sag or come away in places, so I've now stuck mine in with CA.

→ As another user commented, the unit does block access to the SD slot. I've never needed to access mine, but worth pointing out in case it matters to you. ←