Fly Tying Vise

Fly Tying Vise

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In Contest
Fishing Gear

Print Profile(4)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

Small Parts - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Small Parts - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Designer
1 h
2 plates
5.0(2)

Stand & Arm - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Stand & Arm - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Designer
4.1 h
2 plates
5.0(2)

Mount - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Mount - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
Designer
1.7 h
1 plate
5.0(2)

Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
2.7 h
1 plate
5.0(2)

Boost
90
88
16
7
42
11
Released

Description

The AeroGrip 360 Fly Tying Vise

A fly tying vise is a specialized tool used by anglers to create artificial flies for fly fishing. These flies are crafted to mimic the appearance and behavior of insects or other small creatures that fish commonly feed on. The vise holds the hook firmly in place, allowing the person tying the hook to use both hands to attach and secure various materials, such as feathers, fur, and thread, to the hook.

 

The AeroGrip 360 was designed with strength & stability in mind and was printed using PETG filament. All printing profiles are tuned for PETG. I do not recommend using PLA to print this. I do recommend using ABS or a CF type filament for the jaws for extra strength and durability.

Key features include:

  1. Jaw Mechanism: The jaws of the vise are designed to securely clamp onto hooks of various sizes. They can be adjusted to accommodate different hook types and sizes.
  2. Rotary Function: Many modern vises have a rotary function, which allows the user to rotate the hook 360 degrees. This feature makes it easier to apply materials evenly around the hook and inspect the fly from all angles.
  3. Base: The vise is mounted on a sturdy base (5x7 inches) which has a non-slip pad on the bottom, but I still recommend the use of a clamp(s) when tying. The base also includes extruded slots for organizing small parts.
  4. Adjustment Mechanisms: These allow the user to fine-tune the position of the hook for optimal access and comfort while tying.

Parts list:

Assembly instructions:

  1. Insert the stand into the base. Put the print bed side as the bottom (the distance for the hole is slightly different than the top hole used for the mount, I'm sorry…).
  2. Align the hole between the stand and base then insert the 35mm dowel (the largest one). This may require GENTLY tapping the dowel in with a wrench or hammer.
  3. Add the non-slip pad to the bottom of the base. Set this aside.
  4. Assemble the arm with ONE 609 bearing designed by Jerryie. Slide the bearing all the way back. Set this aside.
  5. Insert the M5-0.8 hex nut into the extruded hex slot found on the top part for the mount. This is the dovetailed cut that slides over the top of the mount. Push the hex nut in so it is flush. Set this aside.
  6. Take the arm and bearing from step 4 and insert it from the back of the mount until the bearing hits the stoppers.
  7. Put on the back face plate with the snap connectors on the mount to secure the bearing. I recommend using a little bit of glue, be careful to not get any glue on the bearings.
  8. Insert the second bearing on the arm until it hits the stoppers on the front of the mount.
  9. Put on the front face plate with the snap connectors on the mount to secure the bearing. I recommend using a little bit of glue, be careful to not get any glue on the bearings.
  10. Take the dovetailed piece from step 5 and slide this over the top of the mount so it is flush with both sides and the hole in the mount aligns with the hex nut. This may require GENTLY tapping the dovetail in with a wrench or hammer.
  11. Insert your M5-0.8 x 25mm hex bolt into the tail-design bolt cover and screw into the hex nut on top of the mount.
  12. Add the mount to the stand with the holes aligned then insert the 20.15mm dowel (the smallest one) to secure the mount to the stand.
  13. Insert the 32mm dowel in the back of the arm to assist with rotating the arm. Use glue if necessary.
  14. Insert all 3 M4 hex bolts into the hex bolt covers.
  15. Insert 2 of the M4 hex nuts into the hollow hex nut covers.
  16. Insert the last M4 hex nut into the extruded hex slot found on the back side of the main jaw piece.
  17. The M4-0.7 x 12mm hex bolt is used for the front of the jaw.
  18. The M4-0.7 x 20mm hex bolts are used to connect the swinging arms to the arm and jaws.

 

Comment & Rating (16)

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Print Profile
Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
amazing print love
The designer has replied
1
Reply
Awesome color choices! Looks good! Please let me know if any improvements are needed after testing. I’ve got some minor updates to the base & mount I will be adding soon. Thanks for sharing!
0
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Replying to @wuboo :
If you could make a snap shut door on the base so it can be filled with sand and glues shut. it would help a ton with weight and balance.
(Edited)
1
Reply
Replying to @user_545474233 :
Yes, the base is something I am working on right now. I am incorporating clamps as part of the design for the base. I will have it released soon! Thanks for your feedback
0
Reply
Print Profile
Small Parts - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
great print
1
Reply
Print Profile
Mount - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
great print
1
Reply
Print Profile
Stand & Arm - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
great print
1
Reply
What size fly line is this designed for?
The designer has replied
1
Reply
I am not sure I understand your question. Can you elaborate some more so I can better answer your question? Thanks!
0
Reply
Replying to @wuboo :
My mistake, I commented on the wrong model :)
0
Reply
Replying to @Half_Engineered :
No worries!
0
Reply
Hey would it be possibly to get the step files?
1
Reply
Print Profile
Mount - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Stand & Arm - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Small Parts - 0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill
1
Reply