Having made a few other lightboxes, I decided to make a faction box for everyone in our Kill Team group, starting with myself.

There are two versions available - one using thinner white PLA and one with a thicker face to support the much more translucent glow-in-the-dark PLA. It'll hang from any common thumbtack or nail via the keyhole on the back.

It friction-fits together well enough, but wanting it secure without having to use glue on it, I embedded a little peg in the middle of the triarch that uses a heat-insert M3 nut. This mates with any M3 bolt 12-30mm in length (I used an M3x16 pan head because I have lots of them) to secure the face down from the rear. Be gentle tightening it in, the face it's attached to is quite thin. There is a little recess to ensure the bolt is not protruding from the rear of the box.

As these are gifts and not commissions, I went for ultra-budget on them. I found some cheap 5V COB LEDs that do not get hot like their 12V and 24V counterparts, which could run from an old phone charger that has at least 750mA output. Whack the end off an old Blackberry charger and solder on a 5521 plug or get a USB-A to 5521 cable if you need. Each light used less than 1m worth of LEDs, so I can build at least two from each of those spools.

I put in mounting holes for a mini-SPST switch and a common 5521 DC Jack.

The "Necron Lightbox.3mf" file is a Bambu Studio 1.7.4 project file which includes all the settings and profiles I used to make this, as well as some modifiers that add a 5V marking above the DC plug. It contains both the white and glow-in-the-dark faces, just choose which you'd like to use. The other three files are exports directly from Fusion if you'd like to assemble your own from scratch using your own settings.

Do note: the wavelength of green light is terrible for charging glow-in-the-dark materials, so after-the-fact I added in a little bonus strip of near-UV purple SMD LEDs and it improved the performance of the glow-in-the-dark significantly.

Post-Printing

Detail of the retention peg with the heat-insert M3 nut.

Detail on the keyhole and little indention in the back to make an M3 pan head bolt flush. Do not over torque!

A quick hack-job to add in some near-UV LEDs.

Now the GitD works great!

How I Designed This

If you have an hour to kill, here's the process I used when making the Tyranid lamp.