Break In Case of Emergency, F-Bomb (Desk Model)

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Break In Case of Emergency, F-Bomb (Desk Model)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
11 h
3 plates
5.0(4)

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Description

Who doesn't like silly desk displays? conversation starters? I do, so I decided to make this!

In case of annoyance, however slight (Lets be honest, if you're downloading this you aren't the most patient person in the world and, you probably have a twisted sense of humor), break the glass, and Peyton Manning an F-bomb into the offenders face! ( But seriously, don't do that, you'll probably get fired…….or at a minimum HR will be involved and you'll look bad because you'll be laughing the whole time).

 

Easy to print, very few supports, and, really fun!

 

Extra Parts required:

*1/8" Pane of glass or plexiglass( if you don't have access to glass or a cutter, places like Home Depot/Lowes or other home improvement centers can usually cut a piece of glass to your needs, IF you're buying a piece of glass. You can also buy a cheap frame from Walmart that might have glass that will fit!)

*Superglue. Don't cheap out. the stuff you get from groceries stores and retail stores is junk. Invest in some quality Hobby grade CA glue, Medium is my favorite. You'll be real upset if you get this all assembled and your entire model interior is hazed white from the glue off-gassing as it cures…..ask me how I know. LOL

 

Here is the assembly instructions. I posted pictures of assembly as well.

 

Assembly:

  1. Glue your bomb together, set aside and let dry while you assemble a few other pieces. It's as easy as gluing the square bomb peg into the bomb, then gluing the nose-cap assembly on. the Peg is clocked so it is easy to align the bomb body and nose cap.
  2. Place your pane of glass inside the case. Glue the 4-corner pieces into place(see Picture). Remember, use very little superglue, as you don't want to smear it on the glass. You might be able to get away with just 2 of these little brackets, especially if your glass fits pretty tight. Take this opportunity to clean the interior glass, after the glue dries, very well. You won't be able to access it after the next two steps. It would be a real shame to have fingerprints on the inside after you glue this shut….you'll probably get made fun of, and, you'll have to break the glass and use the F-Bomb to defend your honor.
  3. Glue the bomb onto the stand. I oriented mine with a slight upward angle, but, you don't have to.
  4. Glue the bomb stand in place. There is a letter, "R" to signify which part of the stand should be facing the rear/ away from the glass.
  5. Glue the hammer head onto the hammer handle. MAKE SURE THE INDENTION FOR THE CHAIN RING IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HANDLE, AWAY FROM THE HAMMER-HEAD. This may take some slight sanding to get the handle into the head.
  6. Glue the chain ring onto the base of the handle.
  7. Glue the rear panel, into the rear panel recess( I recommend letting this model sit open for a while. At least a 2-3 days as the glue, cures).
  8. Glue the hammer stand into the detent on the side of the case. I recommend doing this last, so you don't knock it off or break it during other assembly steps. This may require a little sanding for it to fit.
  9. Add a small chain or something to the hammer. I forgot to add a hole or whatever to the hammer holder, so, figure it out…or wait till I fix it later….. (You will see the chain I used in the pictures. I straightened a link, drilled a small hole to shove the straightened piece into, then glued it in place.)
  10. Hang your Hammer assembly. This is a tight fit. You need to insert and rotate the handle, then lower and click into place on the bracket.

 

Make SURE you allow time for all the glue to dry before closing the rear panel. Super glue, especially the cheaper stuff/Gel you buy at normal stores( Gorilla Glue Gel, Loctite Gels, ETC) tend to off-gas for a LONG time as they cure. This can cause a white haze on the glass, model pieces, everything. I highly recommend using a higher grade CA glue, as mentioned above). If you get hazing, a little petroleum jelly or something similar can fix the issue. Just rub the piece with a thin coat, wipe the excess, and BOOM! Good as new.

 

You'll notice that the pictures show the most of the hammer head and bomb nose in gold, but, the plates have the primary color as grey. That's because I'm poor and only have 1-AMS. My 4th AMS slot is for PETG, which I use for support interfaces. Print those in whatever color you like. Just paint them in whatever color you prefer, or, leave em grey….I don't care what you do, I'm not your real Dad and I can't tell you what to do, so do what you want.

 

Lastly, I may eventually upgrade the case to have a channel for the glass, so you don't have to use the little bracket thingies. But, I'm lazy and I don't want to right now. Using the brackets also doesn't limit the thickness of glass you can use, which, is nice.

 

Hope you enjoy the model!!

Comment & Rating (7)

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My favorite print so far.
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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yass this slays!!!
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Great print. Very useful at the office. I did not print the box only the bomb.
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Cool model
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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