This is my 2nd project for BambuLab printers out of 3 (projects that i´ll launch, first one was P1 Series Joystick to control buttons easier, this time is a wider range 3d model for solving a common problem). ((( Actually searching JOB as 3d Automotive designer / tuner or similar like VulcanAlpha :)) to grow experience as 3D designer, so any one hiring or launching interesting projects let me know at rodams42@outlook.com :) ))) So now let´s get to it.

This time i wanted to solve a common problem when printing PLA mostly, even though this can affect other filaments, i´m talking about chamber overheating, nowadays this problem was solved thanks to the community with some top glass lifters, but thing is this lifters even though kinda solved the problem, this was quite an inaccurate way of solving it due to the limitations where the size of these lifters is always the same and can´t be changed easily unless you create another model or rescale them which can lead to model innaccuracy when installing .

So it doesn´t matter what filament, temperature of the nozzle or the bed you´re using, or even what ambient temperature there´s on the room, you´ll always have the same lift on the top glass, so it´s like “stuck” in the same position, that´s why i thought about this idea of creating a top glass lifter with an adjustable knob to reach the desired chamber heat deviation percent or glass angle, which by the way now you can share on forums with other creators to help others using the exact same device, filaments, temperatures, etc, reach the optimum printing enviroment based on your own experience testings, or get help for your own based on others experiences using this device.

This has been design in a way where with the own Knob the top glass will be raised or lowered without the need of lifting it with your own hands. This has been archieved thanks to a coupling gears that create a gear ratio that´ll allow you to raise the whole structure by just twisting the KNOB wihout using any hard force on it. To lift the glass you´ll have to turn counterclockwise the KNOB till reaching desired position, if you want to lower the glass just turn the KNOB clockwise, it´s easy.

IMPORTANT: One thing you´ll notice when changing from clockwise to counterclockwise or viceversa is that you´ll need to make 1 and ½ turns (which is the same as making a 500º turn) until gears accomodate and start to move the end shaft or lifter. So don´t think at first that the sistem is broken, this is how it works due to tolerances between gears.

IMPORTANT: MAX Height is right in the line under number 10 at the right of the dented lift bar ( 10º Angle, that,s max position, if you go over, gear´s will just start to slip.

When creating the design I decided to install / print on the own lifting end rod/shaft (whatever you wanna call it) some numbers that indicate lifting angle or heat deviation in percent. This was aproximately calculated (of course not exactly values, these are more for reference or to share as I mentioned before) by measuring the whole opened surface at every given angle.

So after product description there´re some concerns about this design and some flaws that can be improved for next gens designs if there are so and some flaws that can be improved by using certain filaments, in this case i made the whole case with PLA Tough and all the gearings and shafts with PLA Basic (I know this is not a common/appropiate choice of filaments for each part, but i wanted to test gears and system capabilites with the softest filament available which as you know PLA Basic, so results shown later are based on softest PLA printed gears and shafts, so there´s room for improvement using better filaments, when it comes to weight holding or lifting)

So after some short testings the results are, that these device is compatible with BambuLab AMS on top of the glass, but, and there´s a big BUT, it can withstand with BambuLab AMS Weight (Fully filament loaded), but it can´t safely/properly rise BambuLabs AMS on top, these conclusion is given by these weight testing results where:

- MAX Lifting Capacity tested = 1.5 Kg up to 2.5 Kg using lifting KNOB (PLA Basic Tested, with PLA Tough, ABS or Carbon Fiber Filaments these results mabe can be improved)

- MAX Standing holding Capacity tested = 12 Kg (these means tested weight it can hold on top without skipping or breaking internal gears and without moving it using lifting KNOB, and if so it´s by helping the device and rising top glass with your own hand/force until reaching desired position)

So BambuLab AMS weight is about 2.5 Kg as BambuLab says, but when loading it with 4 rolls of filaments these weight can be increased so, when operating the PRO Glass Lifter if there´s an AMS on top of the glass or any other structure heavier than 2 - 2.5 Kg you´ll need to help the Lifter until reaching desired position ,after that the device will withstand AMS Weight without any kind of help and no problem, if not you´ll damage sistem internals and even get to the point of breaking it mabe (When testing if lifting was posible with 3-12 Kg nothing got broke inside, but gears started to skip and no effect (movement) was caused on the lifting end shaft)

So after all these if you about to print this highly reccomended device for optimum high level and technical prints, let´s get to the best part, installing and mounting everything:

IMPORTANT: To make the process easier when choosing the right components during the installation process all the parts shown had been ordered numerically as they should be taken from the buildplate from left to right and from top to bottom, it´s like reading a book but choosing the right parts in order :)

STEP 1: Uninstall OEM BambuLab Glass lifter, and keep it for later (It goes inside PRO Lifter)

STEP 2: Attach KNOB With it´s own printed shaft, when installing due to low tolerance it can be hard to get till the end so you can support into the intermediate zone of the bar/shaft to exert some pressure like in the 3rd photo. (IMPORTANT: DON´T APPLY FORCE AT THE END of the shaft it can be damaged this way) Also inside 3MF Model there´s included 2 KNOBS, both are the same but with different lengths, choose the one you prefer the most.

STEP 3: Install KNOB into it´s own hole in the front case of the device, apply a lot of force and even twist it, the KNOB need´s to almost touch the wall like shown in the 3rd photo. before proceeding with next steps twist KNOB a little just to accomodate all parts and feel everything is correct.

STEP 4: Install First KNOB´S GEAR (The smallest one) with the face that´s not flat looking towards the shaft´s end, like shown in the photos. Again some force and twist required until gear touches the wall of the case.

STEP 5: Install top shaft/bar. Remember the bigger end / surface stays in the front case wall like shown in photo 2, and 5. Again some force needed, so if you need to apply more force hold the shaft against a flat surface and make pressure with the case (hold case with one hand and with the other hold shaft for more stability when makin pressure). Remember the whole shaft should be in like shown in photos 4 and 5.

STEP 6: Install final double connection end gear into the front case prebuilt bar/shaft , IMPORTANT: As shown in photos the face of the double end gear where the prominent built in wash is located is the one that looks towards the end of the shaft bar, the other face of the gear should touch almost completely the inner wall of the front case. If not installed correctly wrong gears will be coupled and system won´t work properly, being this a common fail.

STEP 7: Install the 3 double size big/small gears, they are all the exact same model and size so it doesn´t matter which one of the 3 you install first, but remember the small gear / small face looks towards to you (to the interior of the device or the end of the shaft). BUT the shaft/bar order when installing these gears has to be done properly in correct order, FIRST gear goes to the top shaft (photo 1), SECOND gear goes to the bottom/KNOB shaft (photo 2) and finally third gear goes to the top shaft again (photo 3), install them in these exact same order. Final result should look like in photo 4, 5, 6. Once installed these gears you can test them by twisting knob, but don´t expect them to work properly as the center bar/shaft located at each gear axis is not fixed in place so they can move causing skipped dents of the gears when moving making at the same time strange movements and sounds. So be calmed, we´re almost there :)

STEP 8: install the only left gear from the buildplate, the single big end bottom gear, with this gear (the only one) it doesn´t matter which side looks toward the front or rear case/shaft so just install it in the bottom/KNOB shaft. Again check and compare the results with photo 3 and 4 and again you can check movements of gears by twisting the KNOB but don´t expect them to work properly for now.

STEP 9: Install inside the front case BambuLab´s OEM Glass lifter and accomodate it inside the built in designed space of the front case, this is the only easy install of the whole process, just slip it right in check it´s all the way in like in photo 3 where you can see a little bit of the front part of the BBL OEM Lifter and check both bolt spaces are aligned like in photo 4 (little bit dark photo, but you get the point), these holes can get out of alignment but don´t worry, later, once the bolt goes in these will/should "autoalign" by itself.

STEP 10: Now it´s time for a big move, we´re coupling the rear case. “Problem” with this part of the process is to align the 3 shafts/bar with the case holes but don´t worry if both shafts/bar´s (Top and Bottom/Knob shaft) comes out a little bit of the front case during these process, it´s something normal, later we´ll solve this. Just slip in the bottom of the rear case into the specifically designed tab (photo 2) located at the bottom of the front case.

STEP 11: As we comment in previous step 10, it´s time to allign 3 shafts, as shown in photo 2 you can use a screwdriver, an allen key or another bar or shaft to move little bit the end of the shafts and align them with holes in the rear case all these at the same time as you make some pressure and try to put both front and rear cases together (so combining photo 2 and 3 movements at the same time should help make the task easier) one IMPORTANT thing is priority to take in the 3rd shaft (the one on the left if you look at it from the rear of the device) that is mounted directly in the front case, cause the other 2 can move forward/backward so later we can put them in, so once 3rd/left shaft is in and both cases are together like in photo 4 we´re fine, we can get to the next step. IMPORTANT: (Not shown in photos) remember to check top click tab located at the top of both cases.

STEP 12: This is an “optional” step depending if all the shafts ends are inside the rear case, if that´s the case you can “skip” step 12 and 13, but it´s reccomended to check at least photos of this steps and compare to see everything it´s OK. So this step is more simple just try to twist, rotate both shafts the one at the top and the one in the KNOB (bottom). For these step we´ll focus first with the KNOB shaft. Once everything looks like in the photos you can go with the next step for the TOP shaft/bar.

STEP 13: The same as step 12 but now we focus with the TOP Shaft, again press it, twist it or rotate it if you can, if it´s quite hard to get it in, exert pressure against a flat surface like shown in photo 2 until the end of the bar reaches and comes out of the rear case, and all this happends without both cases get separated.

STEP 14: Now it´s time to check the working of the gears and the KNOB, now everything should work fine, one way to check these is by looking through the bottom of the device and look if the end double gear moves slowly and soft when we twist KNOB in both directions, REMEMBER as said previously in description when changing movements from clockwise to counterclockwise or viceversa there´s something like an input lag until gears accomodate and start to move on the other direction so there´s like a waiting time of 1 and a half turns of KNOB till gears move everytime there´s a change of direction. If everything works fine, there´s no strange sounds or crackings or skipping steps/dents and everything is OK, we can keep going, if not then check your installation process and gears also check that gears faces don´t have any bubbles or sharp unwanted edges that collide with other gears in unintended ways.

STEP 15: Install the security right side lock, under big loads of weight both cases can tend to separate that´s why i´ve designed this security lock, thank´s to these no additional bolts are needed onto these device. The lock piece has tWo faces one is completely flat which is the one that has been printed onto the buildplate, this face/side is the one that look inwards the device and the other face is the one that looks to the outside, which by the way is the face shown in photo 1. To install this small piece you´ll need a lot of force so install the tip of the security lock and make some force to put in as much as you can and then press it against a flat surface edge like in photo 3 until it´s all the way in like in photo 4

STEP 16: Now time to put in the end dented shaft / lifter bar, push the side without the limit tab (top of the shaft) through the bottom hole and at the same time you push it in twist the KNOB Clockwise (where the minus symbol is located) and as soon as the end double gear catch the dented end shaft all you need to do is to keep twisting the KNOB, at first everything is so tight due to the low tolerances needed in this type of devices for proper working so twist the KNOB until the end dented shaft hits top limit and you can se through the right bottom window that the sharps edges located at each side of the window aligns with the line located over the number 0 like in photo 5, twist up and down and check everything works fine repeat this process until all the pieces get adapted and everything starts to work smoothly, if so we´re almost done.

STEP 17: Install the final informative device badge, allign both tips of the badge with the front case 2 holes that are left empty and slightly make some press, it should go in easily, take care not twisting the badge too much or both tips can broke or fell apart and even get stuck inside holes.

STEP 18: Install PRO Lifter into the BBL Top glass using two bolts already located on the glass that previously holded BBL OEM Lift Tab, allign bolts with holes, tighten both bolts until PRO Lifter don´t wiggles or moves, no play should be allowed, IMPORTANT: Don´t overtight both bolts, this can cause the breaking of both holes of the BBL OEM Lift Tab.

STEP 19: You´ve been waiting this step for the whole last hours that these installing process has been lasting (im counting printing process), so now you know where you need to put the glass, and what you need to do and test and whatever you want with your new BambuLab Top Glass PRO Lifter.

Thanks so much in advance for downloading, feedback and all that. Before i stop writing and leave my fingers rest in peace for the next century i´ll upload 4 printing profiles, 2 with 0.4 Nozzle one with Extra fine layer height quality (Not reccomended) and the other with Strength profile layer height which i highly reccomend for this type of devices even though it don´t look as good, the same with the other 2 profiles made for the 0.2 Nozzle mainly to print the end dented shaft and the informative badge cause better quality letters and numbers, again 2 different layer profiles for these nozzle where again i highly reccomend bigger layer height to archieve more strength. Again thank´s so much with support with previous first project, hope you enjoy these new device and see ya on the next one!! :)