AMS Riser Remix Remixed by R C 3D

Remixed by

R C 3D

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

IP Report

Print Profile(8)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

H2D

Riser v3

Designer

39 h

4 plates

4.9(58)

BLV REMIX ACCDRAWER

Designer

5.8 h

1 plate

4.9(29)

BLV REMIX RL

Designer

8.9 h

1 plate

4.9(22)

BLV REMIX FR

Designer

7.7 h

1 plate

5.0(20)

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443

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Description

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PRINT PROFILES:
The following are the only print profiles tested and approved by me. They are listed by the name I've given them in the print profile description. I can not guarantee the quality of any print profile posted by anyone other than myself.

BLV Remix FR (v2)
BLV Remix FL (v2)
BLV Remix RR (v2)
BLV Remix RL (v2)
BLV Remix DRAWER
BLV Remix ACCDRAWER
BLV Remix Shorty (No Drawers)
Riser v3
Gasket

SUMMARY:
This is a remix of the BLV Riser. The intent was to simplify the assembly, print easier, and with less pieces/material. The original uses close to 2.7kg and this one uses 1.5kg for the primary body, the drawers are between 100-220g, the gasket is 60g of TPU. I will leave the original files in the raw files repository, but will be removing the print profiles that are outdated. The riser maintains the LED light strip sockets, the drawers, the build plate slot, and the high and low shelves for the top glass. I've added a gasket that will work with both the newer and older models. For the older models, you may need to glue it in place because the design intent was to drop it into a small recess, which is only present on v3.

Ideally, use PETG or any other filament with a higher temperature resistance. PLA will deform over time. With that said, I use a PLA version on one of my printers which only prints PLA and I have no issues with it so far. I would recommend TPU for the gasket.

This riser has a few versions:

The first version is the original remix with drawers.
The second version is the remix without the drawers. Additionally, this version has a sloped inner edge to mount an LED strip at an angle for optimal lighting. I bored out the rear hole slightly so you can terminate the led strip in the rear and run the cable out of the back.
The third version (v3) is the original remix, but with a slot for a gasket and sloped edges inside for mounting an LED strip at a slight angle.

Printing/Assembly:

If you decide not to use the print profiles, these are the settings I used.

Global Settings:
- 0.2mm Layer Height
- 3 Wall Loops
- Enable Supports: Normal (Auto)
  - Snug
  - On Build Plate Only

Assembly:

The assembly can be done in a matter of seconds. The joints are made with dovetails and a fairly tight fit for a nice press-fit application.

Assemble the front two pieces
Assemble the rear two pieces
Assemble the front and rear halves together

That's all there is to it. Follow my facebook page, RC3D, for giveaways and entry details as well as my latest models.

CHANGELOG:

UPDATE 12/22/2023:

Added v3. This version includes the same sloped edges that the shorty does, as well as a slot for the gasket. I've also included the gasket since the original BLV has nubs that won't work right with this one. The gasket is designed to simply drop into a recess, so it will work on older versions, but you may have to glue it in place.

UPDATE 11/25/2023:

Added a second version without the drawers. Removed several print profiles and re-organized the files.

UPDATE 10/31/2023:

I revised the drawer insert and the drawer itself. The new version is very similar, but required just a few changes in order to work probably with the new drawer insert. The insert now fits into the side of the drawer as well, so you'd insert the piece and slide it into the side. This helps avoid issues with alignment and helps position the insert correctly. I also remove the accessories tab from the insert as it made no sense in this application. Instead, the other half of the drawer will just be empty.

UPDATE 10/27/2023:

Update the insert to fit better, revised the drawer for better printing and fit. The insert and the drawer need to be super glued and held in place for a minute or so (I used clamps) so the bottom sticks to the existing drawer and doesn't snag the edges when the drawer is inserted.

UPDATE 10/20/2023:

Uploaded an insert to convert the drawers to one similar to the original model. Simply drops in and was intended to just glue in place. I haven't yet tested it, but it's going on the printer tonight so if you'd rather wait I will update this description when mines complete.

INITIAL RELEASE 10/15/2023:

The design is based on the popular AMS riser by Benlevi. My goal was to reduce the number of pieces, complexity of assembly, and ease of printing. The result is this 4-piece body with dovetail interlocks and 2 drawers. I will be improving on this and am currently printing the latest iteration, but its here for you to try as well. If you find any issues, let me know and I'll make it right.

The riser has slots on top for the AMS feet, high and low shelves for the glass Lid, build plate holder, and two drawers.

ASSEMBLY:

Assemble the front two pieces, then the rear two pieces, then assemble the resulting front and rear halves together. The sequence is important. I glued the pieces for peace of mind, but I'm not sure it's totally necessary. The pieces should only slide together one way.

PRINT SETTINGS:

• 3 walls

• 15% gyroid infill

• Supports, snug auto, on build plate only (this is for a small lip at the bottom that will not be visible when installed.)

Comment & Rating (443)

@cchief144

Ughhh! I wish I had paid closer attention to the fact that the ENTIRE V3 version was on one selection and it IS NOT the ones that are separate plates. Now I have a riser that I don't want with no sloped edge for LED's or a recess for the gaskets I printed!! Now I have to buy $40 more filament to print the version I actually wanted and I have an entire model that is useless to me. Anyone want to buy what is apparently the V2 version printed in grey Sunlu PETG? I'll sell it for cost of material plus shipping. Just ordered more filament on lightning deal for $25 so should be able to do for a decent price depending on shipping.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@RC3D

I'm so sorry about that! I try to make it clear, but I will change out the individual pieces for a single project of v2 so its less confusing. I'm really sorry that happened. If it's any use, I use the old one and have an LED strip from Amazon adhered around the inner edge that points directly in. I actually like the lighting better given it doesn't shine directly on the model and just accents it.

@cchief144

Replying to @RC3D :

I appreciate that, it did print very well even though I printed the wrong one. It's a great model. I decided to keep the one I made and cancel the filament order and work with what I have. Can you link me the led's you used? I've been searching different models to print to add light to the inside of the printer for the last couple hours lol. Also, did you wire them up to the printer to use the same control as the OEM light or are they connected to the USB port?

@RC3D

Replying to @cchief144 :

Xunata 6.6ft/2m COB LED Strip, USB 5V 320LEDs/M Dimmable Flexible LED Strip 6500K Daylight White COB LED Band Non-Waterproof LED TV Backlight Strip with Remote for Cabinet Lighting https://a.co/d/hgijaYC I used these. I cut a small notch in the corner of mine (before adding the slot in the rear), and just ran it to a separate USB. It's nice to have the light when I'm powering down for maintenance.

@nebenezer

I just printed the shorty version this weekend in gray Sunlu PETG. I calibrated the filament profile in OrcaSlicer first which shaved around 8hrs off the print time vs the Generic PETG profile. I'm kind of surprised no one seems to have commented on this yet but the AMS feet are backwards. Maybe Bambu changed the design at some point? The rear feet on my AMS (just got it last week so whatever version it is it's very recent) are farther apart, and the front feet are closer together. If I turn the AMS around to face the wall behind the printer it fits perfect, lol. Not a huge deal, I just filled in the foot wells so the top is a flush plane. Aside from that this shorty riser came out pretty great. It would be nice if the thin parts of the front sections would interlock with the thin parts of the rear section, right in the middle of the top. It's kind of spongy but nothing a couple strips of gorilla tape or some glue can't handle. 4.65/5 stars! :D

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@RC3D

Hey, thanks for that. It's hard to keep up with AMS changes, but is there any chance you'd be willing to measure the distance between each foot from center to center?

@nebenezer

Replying to @RC3D :

Certainly. Center-to-center dimensions are: 1. 302mm 2. 240mm 3. 292mm See snip attached for more dimensions, in case it's helpful. Also, my AMS is Model SA001.

(Edited)

@gitago

You mentioned not supplying the gasket for this model due to it being available in the original.. I just checked the original file this is remixed from and their gasket has 'knobs' which are meant to inset into the riser itself.. it appears your model doesnt have these holes for this gasket to attach to properly.. Do you have any plans to create a new gasket for this?

The designer has replied

@RC3D

I'll be revising a few pieces here soon so yes I'll throw one up. Expect it by the new year.

@gitago

Replying to @RC3D :

awesome, thanks much for the great model.. everything fit good together.. The only issue i had was the 'tools/accessories' dont fit quite so well in the accessory drawer.. they need a little more spacing in my situation. also if you are gonna revise the model to the point people want to reprint it then i think it would be neat to design drawers for the bottom so we can recycle the old riser :P

@RC3D

Replying to @gitago :

I've just uploaded a gasket and v3. v3 include the angled ledge for the LED strip and a recess for the gasket. The gasket is completely flat and sits in the recess, so it will work on older versions with some glue or something to hold it in place. As for the accessory drawer, can you show me a photo of which parts don't fit well?

@rob5379

Can you add an LED strip to this riser?

The designer has replied

@RC3D

It's on the agenda. Should have it on there before the end of the week.

@tdcaswell

Replying to @RC3D :

any idea if it'll fit a 12mm wide led strip?

@RC3D

Replying to @tdcaswell :

If its the tape style, it probably would fit just below the spot where the glass sits. I can't remember the exact dimension off hand, but I believe its definitely greater than 10mm.

@psychoelf

Print Profile

BLV REMIX DRAWER

Sturdy, printed perfect. Fits perfect.

@RC3D

Thanks! That was the goal. Wanted something fast, nice, functional.

@psychoelf

Replying to @RC3D :

Yeah, I made the mistake of printing the non recommended drawer first. Thanks for the design and print profile!

@psychoelf

Print Profile

Flat Orientation - Bottom Down, 0.3 brim gap

Other Issues:Doesn't fit. Bottom layer and back are poor quality.

@wyld

It looks like you may have had some adhesion and warping issues at the rear. Did you print with PLA with top off or door open? I've seen several perfect prints on this profile over the last few weeks so curious what could have caused your issue.

@psychoelf

Printed with top closed on textured PEI plate. It did seem like an adhesion issue to me as well. Next plate printed fine with no additional cleaning and lid closed. Usually I've only had adhesion issues with the smooth hot plate.

@wyld

Replying to @psychoelf :

So you printed this same profile a second time and it worked perfectly? I also prefer the textured PEI plate and have only had adhesion issues if it hasn't been cleaned in a while or once when I was accidentally under extruding.

@wyld

Print Profile

PLA - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Love the model, how great everything printed, and how perfectly it fit together. I didn't use any glue. I have two thoughts: 1. I didn't realize this required removal of the glass top to properly sit inside the printer, and then the glass top going back on the low shelf. I incorrectly assumed it would sit around the top frame and the glass would still sit on the foam gasket and be removable to prop up or move to the top shelf. I can see now how difficult it would have been to design this way but it makes me worried that I printed it out of PLA instead of something with more heat resistance like PETG or ASA. I print mostly PLA but a fair amount of PETG and want be free to print ASA or nylon without worry. Did I mess up by printing it in PLA? 2. Do I need another, similar gasket to the one inside the printer to put on the low shelf for heat seal when needed to keep the chamber hotter for those other materials?

(Edited)

@RC3D

I've printed two; one in PLA and one in PETG-CF. Although the PETG-CF is definitely going to hold up longer, the PLA did fine after several prints of PA-CF. What I did to future proof it though, is coat it in cheap epoxy resin from Amazon. Its got much higher temp deflection, makes the base much stronger, and more durable. Search amazon for Alumilite Amazing Clearcast epoxy resin. It's fairly cheap, and will be a new tool in your arsenal.

@RC3D

Also, I don't use a gasket and it does fine. If you're concerned, the original model has a gasket that would fit.

@ProcsDesign

Boosted

Great model! Functional and easy to assemble. Didn't use any glue. Shrunk the drawers a little bit to make them slide a bit smoother. The print profile for the drawers uploaded has them standing up but I might try printing them flat for easier sliding.

(Edited)

@matanlovric

Print Profile

BLV REMIX FR

@BurntNutz93

Did you add an LED strip to the inside of the print head?

@matanlovric

Replying to @BurntNutz93 :

Nein, hab ich nicht. Hab was anderes gemacht

@matanlovric

https://vm.tiktok.com/ZGeyyarhv/

@rumple76

Print Profile

Riser v3

V3 printed great! I had to trim a little off the corners of the gasket in the back and widen the hole a little for the led cord. Bambu grey petg for main body, Bambu black pla for drawers, and Polyflex TPU95 for the gasket.