YOU ARE REQUIRED TO READ THIS DESCRIPTION

SCROLL DOWN TO THE RULES AND READ THEM

I WILL NOT TOLERATE LOW RATINGS DUE TO IGNORANCE. LEAVE A 3 STAR RATING, BUT WHEN I REPLY TO YOU I REQUIRE YOU TO REPLY BACK WITHIN A DECENT TIME PERIOD AND ALLOW ME TO HELP YOU TROUBLESHOOT YOUR PROBLEMS. IF I RECEIVE NO REPLY,

I WILL REPORT YOUR RATING FOR REMOVAL FOR MISINFORMATION BECAUSE OF REFUSAL TO TROUBLESHOOT

IF YOU WANNA SIT HERE AND COMPLAIN AND ARGUE WITH ME, YOU CAN LEAVE. IF NOT, ILL REPORT YOU FOR HARASSMENT.

MY DEDICATION TOWARDS THIS PROJECT WAS NOT A WASTE OF MY TIME AND I REFUSE TO LET IT BE. STOP COMPLAINING AND LET EVERYONE ENJOY THIS PROFILE

If you give a low rating, please explain why, what you changed (if anything), list the filament youre using (Manufacturer name, filament type, color), if you dried it, and how you started the print (Bambu Studio ONLY), and post pictures so I can help you.

Dont leave a 1-2 star review with no explanation. I do respond to everyone. If you do leave a 1-2 star review without listing the info in the above bold outline, I WILL report your review for removal IMMEDIATELY.

TO BE 100% CLEAR, if you leave a low rating and IF I ask for more info and you actually work with me but it still fails, I will NOT report your low rating. But also understand that this profile is MEANT FOR “IC3D TRANSPARENT PETG FILAMENT” but will work on other manufactures filaments, USE TRANSPARENT PETG ONLY!

I ENCOURAGE YOU TO USE THE NEW UPDATED “WITH FAN 2” PROFILES I UPLOADED 12/19/2024!

Click the drop down menu and select a “WITH FAN 2” profile

UPDATES:

Filament flow reduced to .98 from .988

Max fan speed increased to 60%

Wall fan speed increased to 80%

Wall print speed increased to 50mm/s

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR CLOGS OR DAMAGE TO YOUR TOOLHEAD, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

IGNORING RULE 10 WILL CAUSE A CLOG

LOOK FOR THE GLASS FILAMENT PROFILE IN THE PROJECT FILAMENT PROFILES IF ITS NOT ALREADY SET (PETG Glass Fan/No Fan) (PETG Glass Starry Night Bed/No Fan) ETC… Dont ask why theyre named the way they are, thats just my naming scheme. Sorry for the confusion in advance!

If youre confused about what profile to use, X1's can use the P1 profiles just fine. Thats how I was running it for the longest time. But I encourage you to use the specific profile to your printer. Each profile for your specific printer will now run with no warnings except if you use the P1 profiles on an X1 and vise versa. The NO FAN profile was the first creation. WITH FAN was made to fix problems the NO FAN profile had. The NO FAN profile will fix issues that the WITH FAN profile has. Pick one and try it out! If it doesnt work to your liking, try the other!

If anyone is having issues with a problem we named “Foggy Bottom” (first layer fogs up after removal from plate), check out the comment thread from @IntingCat down in the comment section of this page. @IntingCat did a lot of work trying to fix it and found a solution! Thank you for your work and dedication to fix your issue and thank you for sharing your fix! It may be a chemical stress problem with Bambu Lab PETG filament!

READ ALL OF THE RULES BEFORE PRINTING! OR ELSE YOU WILL HAVE A CLOG OR WORSE!

FOLLOW RULES 1 AND 10! THIS IS A WARNING, NOT A SUGGESTION!

FOLLOW RULE 21!

Added X1, A1, and A1 Mini profiles! Updated P1 profiles to fix bed thermal problems. P1 NO FAN was the original! ALL PROFILES NOW HAVE THE SAME VALUES SO NO MORE PROFILE INCONSISTENCIES AND ALL PROFILES SHOULD WORK AS THEY SHOULD!

This is outlined in the rules below, but for ALL profiles, DO NOT USE FILAMENT FLOW CALIBRATION WHEN STARTING THE PRINT! This overrides the extrusion value thats set.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THE A1 AND A1 MINI PROFILES GIVE YOU ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE GIVING A LOW RATING! IF THERES A PROBLEM WITH IT I WILL TRY TO FIX IT! A1 AND A1 MINI PROFILES ARE IN BETA PHASE SO TRY IT OUT!

ALL PROFILES ARE SET FOR USE WITH A HARDENED STEEL 0.4 MM NOZZLE IN MIND. IF YOU DONT HAVE HARDENED STEEL, YOU MAY NOT GET THE EXPECTED RESULTS! TWEAKING THE FILAMENT FLOW MAY BE REQUIRED IF YOU DONT HAVE WHAT ITS SET UP FOR!

The other models in the pictures are not my models, I used them to test out transparency!

This was tested on an X1C using the P1 profiles, then made X1, A1, and A1 Mini profiles.

Good for stained glass prints!

You ever wanted to print glass? Well its not glass but its close enough.

With this profile, you can print ICE cubes, you can also use this profile to print very transparent 3D models, but theres some rules you HAVE to follow:

P.S. You can try using transparent colored filament as well. It wont look as transparent as clear but you can do some stuff with it. IC3D is what I use for filament, links are in the rules below. Also for non Bambu printers, copy the values from Bambu Studio on this profile to your slicer, or if your using Bambu Studio with a non Bambu printer, just copy all settings over using 2 windows.

FOR THE NO FAN PROFILE, MAKE SURE YOUR PATTERNS ARE ALL SET TO ALIGNED RECTILINEAR! A commenter noted theirs wasnt set to aligned rectilinear when they ran the profile, which may be a Bambu issue since all my prints were done with that same profile and it was set to aligned rectilinear before I even uploaded these profiles.

RULES:

1. WARNING: DO NOT RUN THIS PROFILE OFF THE BAMBU HANDY APP ON YOUR PHONE. ONLY USE BAMBU STUDIO. The Bambu Handy app cannot read custom profiles.
2. Restart your printer (power off for 5-10 seconds and power back on) before using this profile, ive had weird issues with the X1C deciding to put lines through the x and y axis on each layer as if the extrusion multiplier kept dropping as I continued to reprint for testing purposes even though it was set properly.
3. Leave ALL settings alone unless you know what youre doing. I mean this in the most literal way. I dont want you changing settings then complaining that it didnt work or it clogged on you, because the problem is on you at that point.
4. DO NOT SWITCH THE PRINTER PROFILE, print it as it sits on the printer its configured for, this profile will warn you that its not the right printer if youre using the P1 profile on an X1C. Ignore the warning and print it anyway. Switching the printer profile will cause you to lose everything this profile is.
5. DO NOT SWITCH THE FILAMENT PROFILES, print it as it sits but select the filament you want to use to print with whether its in the AMS or stand alone.
6. SAVE THE PRINTER PROFILE, PRINT PROFILE, AND THE FILAMENT PROFILE as soon as you open it so you have them for later. You can name them all “ICE Profile” or “Glass Profile” or whatever you feel.
7. THIS IS TUNED FOR A HARDENED STEEL .4 MM NOZZLE. If youre using stainless or brass, dont complain to me if its over extruding or under extruding. Youll have to tune your extrusion multiplier yourself to get the results you want. You may also have to tune your hot end temp as well if youre not using hardened steel.
8. Super tiny prints like screws or bolts or very small printable areas just will not work with this profile. You have been warned. The WITH FAN profile should help with smaller models. the WITH FAN 2 will work even better!
9. I used IC3D Clear Transparent filament (labelled as Natural), you can pick it up on IC3D's website or at your local Micro Center store. Other filament brands may not work with the exact extrusion multiplier that I have set. Again, no complaining if youre not using the same filament or hardware. Different filament brands and different nozzles require different settings.

10. WARNING: Keep your chamber around 38C. Theres room for movement with this, but for the love of Bambu, DO NOT let your chamber get over 42C. The extruder motor gets insanely hot under normal conditions to the point it burns you if you touch it. 42C+ and hot extruder motor = melted filament inside the extruder body. Your extruder WILL CLOG if you dont follow this rule! Ask me how I know. Open your top glass or take it off, AMS risers are great for this purpose. Leave the exhaust fan at 40% or turn it up, thats your choice. But leave it on 40% or up. And keep your front door closed to your printer. For other printers, a chamber may not be necessary, but there cant be a draft around your print.

11. 260C on the hotend, anything above or below this temp have lower quality transparency.
12. 80C bed to ensure the layers melt together properly and to keep the print sealed to the bed during the whole printing process. This is necessary.
13. DRY YOUR FILAMENT IN A FILAMENT DRYER AND KEEP IT DRY! I cant stress this enough. If your filament is cloudy, its one of two things. Either your filament is wet (you didnt dry it for long enough or its not in a dryer while youre printing), or you turned on the toolhead fan too high.
14. DONT RUN THE TOOLHEAD FAN TOO HIGH. This will cause the filament to cool rapidly before the next layer goes on, making each layer cloudy. For the WITH FAN profiles, 0% for layer times passed 15 seconds, currently 20% for 5 second layer times. The WITH FAN 2 profiles are set to 60% for 5 second layer times
15. 0.1mm layer height, leave this alone for top to bottom transparency. I DONT ADVISE THIS BUT If youre brave enough to drop it to .08mm layer height, experiment around with it. But just know that .08mm layer height clogged my extruder a couple times because the filament wasnt moving through the extruder fast enough which caused the heat from the extruder motor to melt the filament inside the extruder body. Im pretty sure I also had a nozzle clog at .08mm layer height as well. A butane torch and Allen head tool was able to get me out of that bind.
16. 25-30mm/s. This speed is the optimal speed for perfect transparency.
17. PEI smooth beds, or PEY or any other smooth PE style beds should work fine for glass like bottoms, dont use glue on these beds for this profile. If youre using a textured bed and complain that you cant see through it, thats your fault. Youll see through the model but not through the textured bottom. If youre using an engineering plate or a cool plate, just dont. If you do, use glue. Youll thank me later. Again if you cant see through it and you used glue, thats on you. If you for some reason are using a glass bed in these printers, which im sure is very possible, dont complain about trying to remove the print. Yea the glass bed would be perfect for a glass bottom finish, but probably a good idea to use glue for a glass bed for easy part removal.
18. 100% infill for the best results.
19. NO BRIMS. these are hard enough to remove from the models as it is. With an 80C bed, brims arent necessary. Unless you have a model with the tiniest base ever, id leave brims off. Or you can use a raft which I have not set up for easy raft-to-object removal.
20. ALIGNED RECTILINEAR for all layer patterns is the best way for the layers to mend together properly and for the best transparency! Normal rectilinear gives you a crosshatched pattern through every single layer and you will see it. The extrusion multiplier will fill in the gaps automatically to where you wont see any pattern lines through the object youre printing.

21. DO NOT USE FILAMENT FLOW CALIBRATION WHEN STARTING THE PRINT! This overrides the extrusion value thats set.

22. Supports are off by default, but if youre printing something with a large overhang or bridge, turn it on. I recommend you use pla as support material if you plan on using supports, the pla peels right off of the model. Make sure the pla support material is at a 0 distance from the model so it lays the petg right on top of the pla! If its spaced away using pla as support material, the pla and petg will warp and cause problems.
23. If you do see lines between each layer in the x and y axis, lightly step your extrusion multiplier up by .002 and do some test prints till you get it dialed in. Not every printer will work perfect because of how the extruder motors are wound up in the factory.

This is the result of under extrusion:

This is the result youre looking for:

You might have boogers on the walls of square prints, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. Just use edge cutters and clean it up. You WILL have lines in the top surface, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. But if you have a plastic annealing oven or a butane torch, turn on ironing with the settings that are set for ironing already, and let it anneal, this should further improve your glass like finish! Ironing WILL cause boogers to form on the edges since its ironing out the extra filament thats lifted up. Using a torch is hard to do for annealing purposes, the part WILL warp as it cools and if you leave the torch on it for too long, it will start to bubble and ruin the part. For my safety and your safety on the torch method, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES OR YOU BURNING YOUR HOUSE DOWN. Use safety gear, go in a well ventilated area and keep a fire extinguisher next to you during the torching process just in case. Thank you love you <3

This is what torching your top layer would look like at 5mm thick:

IF THE UPDATED FAN PROFILE CAUSES PROBLEMS IN YOUR WALLS, USE THE PROFILE WITH NO FAN. THE NO FAN PROFILE FIXED A COMMENTERS ISSUE THEY WERE HAVING!