I guess I have too much stuff on my p1S! I looked at other options for mounting my new Panda Touch screen, but they all blocked something. Most of them, including the dock that came with the Panda Touch, blocked my AMS riser so I couldn't pull the glass cover off the printer when needed. I did find one on MakerWorld that was mounted lower to clear the AMS, but it blocked the spot where my Tapo C110 camera is mounted on the door, so I wouldn't be able to open the door. So I designed my own.

There are other issues with the Panda touch and its included dock that I wanted to address:

1. The 5 magnets used to attach the Panda Touch are too much. You have to use a LOT of force to pull it off, and it risks pulling the bracket off the printer.
2. The opening at the rear of the dock is too small, and it's blocked at the bottom by a metal bar. This makes it difficult or impossible to reach the switch in the rear from the front, and makes it hard to grab the bottom of the screen to pull it from the dock.
3. The USB cable also runs right over the switch making it hard to access the switch even when the Panda Touch is removed.

My bracket model uses a simple double-sided foam tape approach to mounting. The majority of the weight is supported by the upper ledge which rests on top of the printer and secured with the double-sided tape. Note that this requires an AMS riser that does NOT come to the front edge of the printer. Mine, as well as most of the riser models, stops at the front of the printer's top-glass opening.

I removed the two lower magnets making it much easier to remove the screen if needed. The locating pins keep the screen in place so the full compliment of 5 magnets is not needed. Note that the locating pins are printed separately and glued into place (see photos), to allow the bracket to be printed with no supports at all.

I enlarged the rear opening around the switch and USB cable making access a lot easier. It also makes it vey convenient to grab the bottom of the screen and pull forward to remove it. And I used a right-angle USB connector, and routed the cable around the side and up to the top (see photo). This gets the cable out of the way of the switch. With the screen installed, you can put your finger behind the screen and turn it off and on without removing it from the printer. Here's a link to the right-angle USB connector I used: https://tinyurl.com/3yfjhw6w

You'll have to remove the circuit board from the original dock, and place it into this one. The screws are M2.5, so I used M2.5 x 2.5 threaded inserts, installed with a soldering iron to melt them into place. Note that different brands of inserts need different size holes to work properly, so the holes I have in this model may or may not work for you.