Bambu Labs 1 Series Printer Canopy

Bambu Labs 1 Series Printer Canopy

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Print Profile(1)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
57.5 h
8 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

Hello Community!

 

I have designed what I am calling a “Canopy” for the 1 Series of Bambu Labs printers.

 

The intent of the Canopy is to address premature wear issues on the filament and electrical connections to the extruder assembly.

 

My interpretation of the issue is:

In order for Bambu to achieve the outer dimensions of the printer (in particular keeping it short as possible), they had to bring the filament tube movement planar to the X and Y axis, introducing tight radii on the filament tube in the operating area.

 

To address this, I decided to raise the filament feed lines' entry point to the printer up, enough that the filament feed line and electrical energy chain track are no longer capable of mechanically interacting with each other. This main design constraint, combined with attempt to continue Bambus general aesthetics, brought me to the design before you.

 

In addition, it adds features such as interior active desiccation, and the ability for the printer to vent externally through a 2" vacuum hose.

 

I personally keep my AMS on a shelf above the printer, but that is my unique setup. I designed AMS mounting brackets that will support it on the top glass for anyone that wishes to do so.

 

The top glass is your original Bambu printer top glass, with no modification required. I do recommend a 1mm foam gasket around the edges to stop any vibration from entering the glass pane.

 

All hardware, except the 40mm fan screws, are standard M3 and M5 countersunk fasteners, size the lengths to your preference. When printing I recommend stopping supports from printing in the threaded holes to make tapping them easier. The Filament tube fitting is designed for a PC4-M10 fitting off amazon. I do recommend using a 1/8 BSPP tap instead of the M10 as the parts you get from amazon are probably not true M10 threads…

 

Your AMS cable appears to be a physical layer called RS485 originally introduced in 1983 (don't worry it still does its job great). This is thankfully a pretty hearty physical layer to transmit data on. Bambu does not even shield the cables provided with the printer so you are free to chop and splice in a wire. I personally like to solder solder my wires together, but if that's not your thing there are solderless methods available.

 

To do this without soldering:

  1. Cut your AMS cable from the printer to the Buffer in half
  2. Cut a length of fresh wire (links below) to your desired length
  3. Use a razor to carefully score the circumference of all four cable jacket ends, about two inches from the cut end (careful, go too deep and you will cut the copper, and you can't cut wire longer)
  4. Strip the wire ends about ¾ of an inch for each wire
  5. Match the colors as best is possible according to the wire you have on hand then twist the copper together - The critical point here is that the signal for each color wire on one end of your original Bambu cable winds up at the same color wire on the the other half of your original Bambu cable.
  6. Use heatshrink (linkz!) to individually seal up each exposed copper twist! If any of these colors are shorted together or crossed, you CAN DAMAGE YOUR PRINTER! Google is your friend if you are still unsure… "splicing cables"

 

********

I have found taking a piece of PTFE tubing and running it alongside the

electrical wire in the cable track to the extruder helps prevent the track from slapping around

********

 

******** MESSAGE ME HERE IF YOU WOULD LIKE SOLIDWORKS FILES FOR THE VACUUM HOOKUP ********

 

Links!

 

Fans:

Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W93333

 

Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C5VG64V

 

PWM Controllers for your fans!

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-FC1-4-pin-PWM-Controller/dp/B072M2HKSN/

 

Power Supply!

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Three-Power-Supply/dp/B099M8KZ87/

 

Hardware:

M3 Stainless Fasteners!

https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Countersunk-Assortment-Kit-304-Stainless/dp/B076J3W7R4

 

M4 Hardware (for the Big Fan)

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-180-Piece-Metric-Countersunk-Assortment/dp/B06Y3VBQT8/

 

M5 Stainless Fasteners!

https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Countersunk-Stainless-Threaded-Assortment/dp/B08N6BT539?th=1

 

The fitting you need!

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG/

 

Extending your AMS Cables!

Wire!

https://www.amazon.com/RESHAKE-Conductor-Electrical-Automotive-Irrigation/dp/B0BVQ7ZNCQ/

 

Heatshrink!

https://www.amazon.com/650pcs-Shrink-Tubing-innhom-Approved/dp/B07WWWPR2X/

 

I am sure there is more I am forgetting but I will keep this updated as I need!

 

Happy printing!

Comment & Rating (8)

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Boosted
How did you extend the 4 pin ams hub cable?
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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I'm trying to figure this out, too.
0
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Replying to @MrEdGoGo :
I cut the cable, got some 4 conductor wire, and extended the cable solder splicing and heatshrinking joints
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Boosted
Replying to @blackstone.3d :
Could you please add a link for the 4-conductor wire and perhaps provide guidance on which colors should be joined together? I hope I'm not asking for too much.
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Extremely clever idea with the shopvac hose. Everyone has easy access to one of those. Really great job
1
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This Is Amazing! Good Job! 😀
1
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what is the little fan and box on the left for?
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