Hello Community!
I have designed what I am calling a “Canopy” for the 1 Series of Bambu Labs printers.
The intent of the Canopy is to address premature wear issues on the filament and electrical connections to the extruder assembly.
My interpretation of the issue is:
In order for Bambu to achieve the outer dimensions of the printer (in particular keeping it short as possible), they had to bring the filament tube movement planar to the X and Y axis, introducing tight radii on the filament tube in the operating area.
To address this, I decided to raise the filament feed lines' entry point to the printer up, enough that the filament feed line and electrical energy chain track are no longer capable of mechanically interacting with each other. This main design constraint, combined with attempt to continue Bambus general aesthetics, brought me to the design before you.
In addition, it adds features such as interior active desiccation, and the ability for the printer to vent externally through a 2" vacuum hose.
I personally keep my AMS on a shelf above the printer, but that is my unique setup. I designed AMS mounting brackets that will support it on the top glass for anyone that wishes to do so.
The top glass is your original Bambu printer top glass, with no modification required. I do recommend a 1mm foam gasket around the edges to stop any vibration from entering the glass pane.
All hardware, except the 40mm fan screws, are standard M3 and M5 countersunk fasteners, size the lengths to your preference. When printing I recommend stopping supports from printing in the threaded holes to make tapping them easier. The Filament tube fitting is designed for a PC4-M10 fitting off amazon. I do recommend using a 1/8 BSPP tap instead of the M10 as the parts you get from amazon are probably not true M10 threads…
Your AMS cable appears to be a physical layer called RS485 originally introduced in 1983 (don't worry it still does its job great). This is thankfully a pretty hearty physical layer to transmit data on. Bambu does not even shield the cables provided with the printer so you are free to chop and splice in a wire. I personally like to solder solder my wires together, but if that's not your thing there are solderless methods available.
To do this without soldering:
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I have found taking a piece of PTFE tubing and running it alongside the
electrical wire in the cable track to the extruder helps prevent the track from slapping around
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******** MESSAGE ME HERE IF YOU WOULD LIKE SOLIDWORKS FILES FOR THE VACUUM HOOKUP ********
Links!
Fans:
Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W93333
Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C5VG64V
PWM Controllers for your fans!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-FC1-4-pin-PWM-Controller/dp/B072M2HKSN/
Power Supply!
https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Three-Power-Supply/dp/B099M8KZ87/
Hardware:
M3 Stainless Fasteners!
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Countersunk-Assortment-Kit-304-Stainless/dp/B076J3W7R4
M4 Hardware (for the Big Fan)
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-180-Piece-Metric-Countersunk-Assortment/dp/B06Y3VBQT8/
M5 Stainless Fasteners!
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Countersunk-Stainless-Threaded-Assortment/dp/B08N6BT539?th=1
The fitting you need!
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG/
Extending your AMS Cables!
Wire!
https://www.amazon.com/RESHAKE-Conductor-Electrical-Automotive-Irrigation/dp/B0BVQ7ZNCQ/
Heatshrink!
https://www.amazon.com/650pcs-Shrink-Tubing-innhom-Approved/dp/B07WWWPR2X/
I am sure there is more I am forgetting but I will keep this updated as I need!
Happy printing!