Bambu Brite AMS LED Riser by 3DPODesigns

3DPODesigns

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(4)

All

P1P

P1S

X1 Carbon

X1E

Bambu Brite Painted

Designer

16.5 h

2 plates

4.8(18)

Bambu Brite Embossed Logo (unpainted)

Designer

13.2 h

2 plates

4.7(17)

Optional TPU Pads

Designer

6.8 h

2 plates

5.0(4)

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

11.7 h

2 plates

5.0(4)

Boost

189

323

511

315

Released

Description

Simple, easy to print and assemble LED riser for top mounted AMS systems on Bambi X1/X1C/P1S or enclosed P1P.

I recommend printing in PETG, though I've also printed a full Bambu Brite in PLA and it seemed fairly strong.

**Keep in mind this may affect the Lidar on X1C's, so it would be best to leave it off during calibration. I do not own an X1C so I cannot test which level a light is ok, but if you'd like to test this yourself please use a dimmable LED strip.

**I've also had a comment on Reddit saying he noticed Bambu Brite sliding during fast prints. I haven't experienced this, so this may depend on the filament used and smoothness of the plate, but I cannot confirm. If you experience this or just want to avoid it, please print and install the TPU pads.

UPDATE: I haven't noticed any scratching of the glass from Bambu Brite sitting directly on the glass, however based on questions on Reddit I've decided to add OPTIONAL TPU pads via a profile as well as separate STL's. These will require glue (I used a few lines of hotglue for my testing). They are the same assembly format as Bambu Brite itself, however they do not stay together as a whole without being glued down. They do have small edges that make them easily guided into place and don't obstruct the final look of Bambu Brite. TPU pad assembly pictured below.

I've included 3mf files for both painted logo, and inset logo for those of you that don't want to print in multicolor.

Simply print both files, and use the easy tabs/slots to assemble the left side pieces and right side pieces separately.

Once the left and right sides are complete, simply guide them together and press fit to have a completed Bambu Brite.

I've intentionally made the LED track larger than some other similar LED risers to accommodate larger LED strips (up to 16mm wide), and to make installation of smaller LED strips easier. I recommend using additional adhesive backing if the adhesive that came on your LED strip isn't strong enough to maintain during radiated heat during prints.

Important: The flexibility and adhesive quality of LED strips can vary. If you’re having any issues getting yours to adhere simply place it as best you can and run a bead of hot glue on both edges of the LED.

Carefully place your LED strip along the track, fitting the power wire through the channel exiting your Bambu Brite. Trim any excess at the marked cut locations on your chosen LED strip. You're now done with assembly!

Place your Bambu Brite on top of your Bambu printer in the same location you'd normally place your AMS, then set your AMS on top of your Bambu Brite. Bambu Brite was designed to be form fitting, but not snug. It can be easily placed and removed numerous times for maintenance without causing damage to your printer or Bambu Brite.

Plug it in, turn it on and enjoy finally being able to see what you're printing!

Happy printing!

Comment & Rating (75)

@TechCowboy

I printed this overnight and installed it on one of my X1C machines. I purchased an LED light that allows me to adjust the brightness. With the lowest setting, I think that I will still be able to use the Lidar (Still have to test it) because it is about the same brightness as the stock light…it just distributes the light more evenly. Without the lettering, you can't even tell that it is a separate unit, which is what I was going for. I've included a photo of the light kit that I purchased from Amazon in case any other X1C owners want to give it a go. I will post updates regarding the Lidar for the X1C after a few days of testing.

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

that looks amazing! please let me know how it does with the lidar as I’m also very curious. thanks for the comment!

@TechCowboy

Replying to @3DPODesigns :

My initial testing with the light kit and the Lidar today yielded good results. I printed with TPU which (I think) is one of the most difficult materials to get right. There were no errors with the flow calibration or with the first layer inspection. This was with the light on the dimmest setting. I may try a similar small print on each of the brightness settings to see if light has any impact, but initial results are promising!

@TechCowboy

Replying to @3DPODesigns :

After several days of printing several models., including a second Bambu Brite for my second X1C, I can confidently say that this LED strip, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHLGSXN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1, has no negative impact on the Lidar related functions (flow calibration and first layer inspection) when on the lowest light setting. I did see some problems when I turned it up to third lowest setting, so I just leave it on the lowest setting unless I want to see what is going on…then I turn it up (as long as the first layer inspection is complete). No light leakage. I printed both of mine on a PEI plate and they are very slick on the glass. I may print the TPU gasket if they start to slide during printing.

@BrentTech

This seemed like the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to add lightning to my P1S printers and it really was. I bought these on Amazon for $9 each: "UVTaoYuan Led Strip Lights 5V USB 6.56ft/2m 640LEDs Touch stepless Dimmable COB LED Strip Light 3000K Warm White 10W Flexible led Lights for Bedroom Kitchen, DIY Lighting Room Decor led Lights". It's difficult to show the difference in photos since my phone wants to correct the lightning, but it's really night and day. I feel like I've never really seen the inside of the printer this well. I usually have to wear a headlamp when inspecting the print, but not anymore. As far as the TPU, I'd say it's almost a requirement. I'm not worried about plastic scratching the glass, but it was sliding around very easily without the TPU base. Thank you for making this model!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

Looks amazing! I added to the listing that using the TPU pads will help avoid that sliding as you’re the second one I’ve seen say that. I intentionally designed them to be add ons so no reprint will be necessary. I’ll probably integrate them a bit cleaner for a V2. Thanks for your feedback!

@roy.meinen

Question, does that strip have a memory? As can you set the brightness, than unplug it and plug it back in, will it automatically turn on and be dimmed?

@Neebick

Looks very clean and blends in well without being in the way. Only wish was that there was someway to secure the cable for the led strip better. Right now it just hangs and pulls the strip off if I were to lift the ams up. Thinking I'll just hot glue it in.

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

looks awesome! and I know what you mean, I did put a dab of hot glue on mine and I should probably add that to the model description as well. thanks for the feedback.

@TheBasedDoge

It looks pretty good! I used 5V LEDs and plugged into the printer so I can control them. had a few issues / comments. - The tolerances on the snap together parts are VERY tight, i couldn't do it by hand. I ended up tapping them down with a hammer and block of wood carefully, but then it did go together. - If you use feet there is a gap for light bleed, so some recessed spots for the feet to decrease this gap would be nice. - if possible a more gradual curve for the LED strip, getting the pcb to bend in that shape is kinda difficult, and without glue its just going to keep falling out.

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

I appreciate the feedback! if you use the tpu pads it doesn’t allow for light bleed, so if you want to try those they work really well. as for the curve, I know what you mean. depending on the light strip used they’re either pretty flexible or fairly rigid. in my testing I’ve seen ones that work well and others that definitely require glue. I honestly recommend some hot glue regardless just so you don’t have to deal with it. I plan on making a V2 in the coming months that will deal with all of these issues and make it more seamless. also, I didn’t run into the tight fit of the slots myself, but they are purposefully tight so you don’t need glue. I can definitely see variations in prints cause them to be a little more tight for some than others. again, thank you for your feedback it’s definitely useful!

@TheBasedDoge

Print Profile

Bambu Brite Embossed Logo (unpainted)

Snap fittings were hard to do by hand, had to tap down with a hammer. other than that pretty good.

@Patiot828

Print came out great and went together nicely. Added a dimmable COB LED strip from Amazon to be used with my X1C.

@aaronkirkham782

Print Profile

Bambu Brite Painted

Easy print and works perfectly, lighting inside the casing is now so much better

(Edited)

@jamietarrant74

Print Profile

Bambu Brite Painted

I printed it in PLA and added a rope usb light. even at it's brightest setting the Lidar works just fine. Great improvement.

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

I'm so glad it worked out for you!

@satimchula

Awesome design and print. I ended up using PLA Tough to print it in Silver and it looks amazing! You can barely tell I added something to the AMS. I ended up incorporating my LED strip into a ESP32 running WLED and tied both the X1C and the WLED to my homeassistant instance. Now I have printer aware custom lighting based on the status of the print. Now my printer looks like a rainbow celebrating a job well done when I go to collect the print. Seriously, amazing work.

The designer has replied

@3DPODesigns

That sounds amazing. Too bad you can’t share videos here. I want to see it in action!